Build 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity"
- Thread starter middlecalf
- Start date
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- #282
So I’m completely confused. The bolts for the water pump, lower thermostat housing and lower alternator bracket are smaller than the spec’d 10mm bolts. What fits are bolts that measure 0.364”, slightly smaller than 3/8” (0.375”) and slightly larger than 9mm (0.354”), coarse thread. Pics below don’t show any alterations such as helicoil or welding or other inserts to head or block as best I can tell. If retapped these would be bigger than 10mm if originally spec’d to 10mm. If rational is in keeping with metric , these would be 9mm holes but those are virtually non-existent. If 3/8 hole, why the non-metric crossover? For practical purposes this impacts what bolts I order (or not). I am missing a few, and I guess will reuse what it have. BTW, the bolt holes for both engine mount brackets on front of block are 10mm. Block date code is 040201 and head is 040208, I think they match. Can’t wait to get these all covered with mud and dirt so I can forget about them.
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- #283
Once the refrigerator is empty (well on its way) and the house is silent once again I'll bolt the water pump and thermostat housing on using the non-metric/imperial 3/8" bolts that it had and fit and continue to wonder what's up with these bolt sizings. Unless someone has a good reason I shouldn't.
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- #284
What do I do about the water pump pulley not aligned with other pulleys? Alternator and crankshaft pulleys are aligned pretty well. This is suppose to be an F motor water pump single pulley, there wasn’t one on the motor (or a fan) when I rescued the rig from demise. Everything is just temp installed for fit.
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- #285
I wonder if that’s the wrong WP pulley? Are there different single pulleys?
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- #288
I don’t think it’s the water pump, both the new and old match and both align with the alternator. I think it’s the pulley itself, and there are at least two different sized single pulleys. Look how deep mine is, compared to pics of others I’ve seen. My 64 water pump is still intact but needs a rebuild also (internal seal).
Drop the pulley on the table and get some measurements. I’ll see what I have
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- #290
2-1/8”
I have one coming that’s supposedly from a 64. We’ll see if it’s shorter ( needs to about about a 1/2 inch shorter).
I have one coming that’s supposedly from a 64. We’ll see if it’s shorter ( needs to about about a 1/2 inch shorter).
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- #291
Takes the correct part. Left one fits. I guess I have a specialized cup holder now.
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- #292
Are the valve cover studs easily removeable?
Yes
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- #294
Just unsrew? Looks like there's a nut on them, retaining nut? Do these studs have anything to do with holding the rocker arm to the head? Mine are bunged up at the top, might be able to rethread them to use, but might have to replace. 8mm x 1.25 IIRC. Nothing in my FSM or anything I can find addresses any issues with removing the studs. Wimp mode today.
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- #296
Dang, why would you do that, Toyota. No, don't want to remove the head. I'm going to get this running and then see if (or wait until) I need to go further. I just want to get it running.
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- #297
Progress is slow but measured, and generally boring. New Rainman brake lines all in place, just putting stuff back on motor without much/any bling before setting back into frame then will attack body.
Maybe I’ll bling up the valve cover. Maybe.
But progress will definitely get slower. First calf this year, 496 to go.
Maybe I’ll bling up the valve cover. Maybe.
But progress will definitely get slower. First calf this year, 496 to go.
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- #298
Not sure if engine Jedi follow this thread but here’s today’s unknown, checking oil pump functionality via drill/screw driver insert in bottom of dizzy hole. I’m getting oil lifted to at least the oil regulator because a temp rubber hose I had on it popped off (didn’t notice right away, standing on other side of motor) and I got to practice my oil cleanup skills on a quart or two of fresh blond colored oil that had illegally migrated out of the regulator onto the still fairly new and fresh shop floor. I love breaking in the shop. After foul words were said about the dumba$$ mechanic working on this (me) and a better plug was inserted on the regulator outlet and more fresh blond colored oil added, I’m not seeing any oil coming out anywhere in the top. Copper feed line is in tact, and there’s been evidence of oil in these parts from sometime in the past. Shouldn’t I see oil seeping out of somewhere on the valve train? Can’t really determine the RPM of the ghetto pump driving tool, but seems like it needs to be spinning at least 5-10 revs per sec to mimic idle RPMs. How long should it take? Seems like if oil was being pumped out of the regulator then the pump is primed, correct?
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- #299
Well now reading the f-engine repair manual (good one, grasshopper) maybe the crankshaft needs to be turning as well since the oil that needs to get to the upper engine is divided like 4000 times (ok only three, I tend to exaggerate occasionally) and has to pass through holes as well on its long migration, legally, to the new world of the rocker arm universe. Maybe that’s why I see residual oil because before I pulled the motor from the frame I spun it by the starter with fresh oil in its bowels. Thoughts Obi Wan if you’re watching?