Found this after the fact….. Cruiser Wiring - http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/wiringmainframe.htm
Builds 1963 FJ45 SWB in Cavalry Blue
- Thread starter Honger
- Start date
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Customer wants a chrome plated alternator. Any ideas on resources?
Michael B
SILVER Star
Toyota or GM alternator?
Either as long as it fits the existing Toyo mount. Need chrome though
Take it apart and have the housing chromed
Did that with a powder coating, but cust wants chrome and nearest plater is in Tucson.
Chungas Revenge
SILVER Star
Cursory search on the interwebs for “GM chrome alternator” produced a metric
tonne of results for one or three wire applications.
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Michael B
SILVER Star
GM is pretty easy to come by as previously mentioned. I don’t know for sure if it will fit the Toyota mount. For a chrome Toyota unit, you will have disassemble it and send it off for plating, as recommended already. Unless you luck up and find one available that someone else has already had plated.
- Thread starter
- #70
Okay... something a little more substantiative... we designed replacement door catches based off an example that @tahoe40/45 was kind enough to loan us. They came out fantastic!
More in depth updates coming soon. This project has been moving. It's out of paint and into actual assembly at this point. My day-job work schedule has just kept me from keeping things up to date.
More in depth updates coming soon. This project has been moving. It's out of paint and into actual assembly at this point. My day-job work schedule has just kept me from keeping things up to date.
- Thread starter
- #71
So this project was supposed to be a relatively simple re-assembly job. Bodywork and paint was done, engine rebuilt, axles rebuilt, etc. Some parts were missing and needed sourcing. Etc.
One of our first efforts was standardizing fasteners which were a hodgepodge of chrome, capheads, etc. We bought some Overland Metric (@davework) stainless hardware and got to work removing the non-matching and non-standard stuff.
And started testing parts for assembly readiness...
And that's when things started going awry. For example, the tailgate chains (new parts he had) are supposed to bolt in to captured nuts in the bed. But the place where they bolt in was smooth. But we could feel the captured nut from behind. Some creative chiseling through 1/4" of bondo and we found the captured nut, but now the tailgate chain wouldn't fasten without chipping off more.
It quickly became apparent that the bondo work done on the bed, and fenders, wasn't going to allow us to actually reassemble. The fenders had been creatively sculpted so that you could no longer bolt it to the front bib. The bed had holes for a tire carrier... and even those had been bondo'd over.
So we had the owner come visit and discuss with us. Next step was to sandblast the bed and fenders down of all paint and bondo... and see what we really had to work with. We had all the sandblasted parts epoxy primed right after blasting to prevent flash rust.
What we had wasn't promising:
One of our first efforts was standardizing fasteners which were a hodgepodge of chrome, capheads, etc. We bought some Overland Metric (@davework) stainless hardware and got to work removing the non-matching and non-standard stuff.
And started testing parts for assembly readiness...
And that's when things started going awry. For example, the tailgate chains (new parts he had) are supposed to bolt in to captured nuts in the bed. But the place where they bolt in was smooth. But we could feel the captured nut from behind. Some creative chiseling through 1/4" of bondo and we found the captured nut, but now the tailgate chain wouldn't fasten without chipping off more.
It quickly became apparent that the bondo work done on the bed, and fenders, wasn't going to allow us to actually reassemble. The fenders had been creatively sculpted so that you could no longer bolt it to the front bib. The bed had holes for a tire carrier... and even those had been bondo'd over.
So we had the owner come visit and discuss with us. Next step was to sandblast the bed and fenders down of all paint and bondo... and see what we really had to work with. We had all the sandblasted parts epoxy primed right after blasting to prevent flash rust.
What we had wasn't promising:
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Bondo needs to be outlawed.
Are the repo door catches something that could be available to other early door folks?
Are the repo door catches something that could be available to other early door folks?
Bondo has lots of uses such as pattern making. Rust should be outlawed - Firearms have only two enemies rust and liberals.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Ok, I’ll rephrase my post.
Bondo must be outlawed to use in an attempt to make a body panel as smooth as a baby’s butt.
Addendum to law: if Bondo is used to make a panel as smooth as a baby’s butt, then there needs to be a mandatory 50-year warranty that the person (or associate) using Bondo to make a panel as smooth as a baby’s butt is required to show up, free of charge, and use an appropriate metal repair approach like what @Honger, et al (me
) is doing/has done.
Bondo must be outlawed to use in an attempt to make a body panel as smooth as a baby’s butt.
Addendum to law: if Bondo is used to make a panel as smooth as a baby’s butt, then there needs to be a mandatory 50-year warranty that the person (or associate) using Bondo to make a panel as smooth as a baby’s butt is required to show up, free of charge, and use an appropriate metal repair approach like what @Honger, et al (me
) is doing/has done.
- Thread starter
- #75
I should note that in the bed the bedliner was cracking and chipping out revealing poorly prepared surfaces and rust was already taking hold again. The bed proved to be full of lots of extra holes as well as quite a few dents. The bed bottom was drooping between cross supports.
The fenders had issues as well. They had a manageable amount of pitting and dents but the front of one was out-of-whack with the front bib... and both were pretty mangled where they interface with the running boards.
We took the parts around to several body shops and got some pretty high numbers on making things right. These parts are actually all usable for a patina style build.... too bad they'd already been stripped and sculpted over. They are functionally usable, but to get them to the level our customer wanted in terms of cosmetic appearance, the prices just didn't make sense. So we've got an SWB bed and two fenders available for sale... sandblasted and epoxy primed and ready for a project (I need to go post in the classifieds).
Anyways, moving more into the truck we found the chincy bedliner cracking/peeling out of the cab floor as well; so we set about removing that. I'm sure @KSDaddio would appreciate me clarifying that "we" meant just him. Ha!
The fenders had issues as well. They had a manageable amount of pitting and dents but the front of one was out-of-whack with the front bib... and both were pretty mangled where they interface with the running boards.
We took the parts around to several body shops and got some pretty high numbers on making things right. These parts are actually all usable for a patina style build.... too bad they'd already been stripped and sculpted over. They are functionally usable, but to get them to the level our customer wanted in terms of cosmetic appearance, the prices just didn't make sense. So we've got an SWB bed and two fenders available for sale... sandblasted and epoxy primed and ready for a project (I need to go post in the classifieds).
Anyways, moving more into the truck we found the chincy bedliner cracking/peeling out of the cab floor as well; so we set about removing that. I'm sure @KSDaddio would appreciate me clarifying that "we" meant just him. Ha!
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Joel, here's a couple more postmortem pics on the carb. Slo jet lost its restrictor, meaning that it would be improbable to get enough air into the idle circuit to match the fuel flow.
Inlet cap screw would have had a hard time sealing since part of the air horn was folded over.
One of the two bolts holding the fuel bowl was not stock, and was barely long enough to hold it to the throttle body, so the previous 'mechanic' opted to reinstall both bolts without split washers. The oxidation between the bowl and throttle body confirms that was not a good choice. Those are just a few highlights.
Inlet cap screw would have had a hard time sealing since part of the air horn was folded over.
One of the two bolts holding the fuel bowl was not stock, and was barely long enough to hold it to the throttle body, so the previous 'mechanic' opted to reinstall both bolts without split washers. The oxidation between the bowl and throttle body confirms that was not a good choice. Those are just a few highlights.
Anybody know or have inklings of the door molding install?
Have seals from City Racer but specifics on install elude me.
Have seals from City Racer but specifics on install elude me.
tahoe40/45
SILVER Star
For gluing this video helps.
For attaching molding these help. https://www.amazon.com/Extra-Large-...locphy=9032737&hvtargid=pla-803505133384&th=1
Top piece of weatherstripping needs to be cut off and glued to door bow. Hope this is what you were looking for.
For attaching molding these help. https://www.amazon.com/Extra-Large-...locphy=9032737&hvtargid=pla-803505133384&th=1
Top piece of weatherstripping needs to be cut off and glued to door bow. Hope this is what you were looking for.
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That’s what I thought, after looking at vehicle pics both sold and for sale. Could not find postings on mud.
Thanks Tahoe
Thanks Tahoe
- Thread starter
- #80
Joel, here's a couple more postmortem pics on the carb. Slo jet lost its restrictor, meaning that it would be improbable to get enough air into the idle circuit to match the fuel flow.
View attachment 3794689
Inlet cap screw would have had a hard time sealing since part of the air horn was folded over.
View attachment 3794690
One of the two bolts holding the fuel bowl was not stock, and was barely long enough to hold it to the throttle body, so the previous 'mechanic' opted to reinstall both bolts without split washers. The oxidation between the bowl and throttle body confirms that was not a good choice. Those are just a few highlights.
Thanks for all the help on this project Mark!
Appreciate this... very helpful, especially the way the seal goes on the door bow.
