150 Amp Alternator - Thanks Photoman (1 Viewer)

[RFB]

AM1 and Main are in the small plastic box that two of the fusible links connect to from battery positive.

View attachment 1572392

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With the box open, the large white wire on the right is the one coming from the alternator "B" post through the blue fusible link to battery positive.

so should i up to a 200 or 1140 amp slo fuse/ because Im getting ready to do this as I have a leak to tend with

 

[Photoman]

I would go with a 150 amp fuse. The Mega fuses have a slow blow characteristic and can take an over amperage for a period of time.
The fuse that I used is the Blue Sea 5103. It works in the 5001 fuse block.
There is a chart on the page showing the working area of the fuse.

 

[RFB]

I would go with a 150 amp fuse. The Mega fuses have a slow blow characteristic and can take an over amperage for a period of time.
The fuse that I used is the Blue Sea 5103. It works in the 5001 fuse block.
There is a chart on the page showing the working area of the fuse.

and I know its asking a lot but is there a picture of the wiring afer the upgrade, Ive already had a dfire and I want to do this right first time. fire was unrelated to alternator BTW

 

[Photoman]

I will try to get a picture tomorrow for you unless someone else posts up. It might be later in the day since I have a meeting to go to.

 

[RFB]

I will try to get a picture tomorrow for you unless someone else posts up. It might be later in the day since I have a meeting to go to.

at your leisure I have to pull out battery box shroud etc for a leak so its the perfect time to do it all at once.

 

[Photoman]

I took a look at the upgrade thread. There are several pictures there showing the fuse block attached to the battery box. There is also an option for a fuse that bolts directly to the battery positive terminal. My pictures would be the same as these pictures. Let me know if these pictures are good enough.

From the upgrade thread:

concretejungle - page 5 post #94
TrickyT - page 6 post #105 TrickyT found the battery terminal fuse holder
rhyary - page 8 post #152 rhyary shows the battery terminal fuse holder installed
fj80pb - page 17 post #331 third picture down shows the fuse block attached to the battery box

 

[Photoman]

What I ended up doing was just install a 150 amp alternator/wiring and take pictures on an old cruiser I have. Along the way I discovered a different way (again) to do the wiring that may help folks out.

The first picture is a front view showing how the ring terminal needs to be bent so the new wire is facing up.

Here is a top view which also shows wire routing.

Here are a few pictures of the fuse holder mounted on the battery box showing wire routing.

 

[Photoman]

The new wiring I figured out is to take the stock white wires from the alternator and connect them to the fuse block with the new charging wire. It is important to connect them on the correct (alternator) side of the fuse block. This eliminates trying to get the two ring terminals on the alternator "B" post.

The new fuse block comes with a clear cover. Mine did not. I put both wires in a boot for protection. All pictures do not have wire loom etc to hopefully get better clarity.

works good

Edit to add - The length of the two wires is 16 inches ring eye center to center for the charging wire and 12 inches on the wire from fuse holder to battery positive. I think because of the short lengths involved here, number 4 wire should be good and would be easier to work with than the number 2 I used. Three of the ring terminals had a 5/16 inch hole and the one for the alternator "B" post had a 1/4 inch hole. Also if mounting the stock alternator wires to the fuse holder, the stock ring terminal hole size has to increased to 5/16 inch. A step bit while holding the ring terminal with vise grips works well.

 

[RFB]

The new wiring I figured out is to take the stock white wires from the alternator and connect them to the fuse block with the new charging wire. It is important to connect them on the correct (alternator) side of the fuse block. This eliminates trying to get the two ring terminals on the alternator "B" post.

View attachment 1574243

The new fuse block comes with a clear cover. Mine did not. I put both wires in a boot for protection. All pictures do not have wire loom etc to hopefully get better clarity.

View attachment 1574249

works good

View attachment 1574251

Edit to add - The length of the two wires is 16 inches ring eye center to center for the charging wire and 12 inches on the wire from fuse holder to battery positive. I think because of the short lengths involved here, number 4 wire should be good and would be easier to work with than the number 2 I used. Three of the ring terminals had a 5/16 inch hole and the one for the alternator "B" post had a 1/4 inch hole. Also if mounting the stock alternator wires to the fuse holder, the stock ring terminal hole size has to increased to 5/16 inch. A step bit while holding the ring terminal with vise grips works well.

Ok so on the bottom of the fuse the white wiring goes back to cut in FL correct.

 

[Photoman]

I guess FL is fusible link. Remove the old fusible link in the AM1/Main box. Keep it for an emergency. If you look at my second to last picture of the stock wires formally on the alternator "B" post, you will see 2 white wires. The one wire you are killing by removing the fusible link. That was the old charging wire from the stock alternator "B" post to the battery positive through the fusible link. The other one must be connected to alternator power to feed some circuits that were directly fed from the alternator before.

 

[Will Van]

The new wiring I figured out is to take the stock white wires from the alternator and connect them to the fuse block with the new charging wire. It is important to connect them on the correct (alternator) side of the fuse block. This eliminates trying to get the two ring terminals on the alternator "B" post.

Could you elaborate on this point? I understand connecting one end of the white wires to the “alternator side” of the fuse block. But where does the other end of the white wires go if it does not mount to the “B” terminal on the alternator?

 

[Photoman]

There are two wires crimped in the stock "B" post ring connector that attaches to the alternator. One is the charging wire that goes to battery positive through the stock fusible link. The other wire goes from the alternator "B" post to the under hood fuse box. This supplies some critical circuits so if the fusible link blew these circuits could be supplied by the alternator. Likewise, if the alternator went and the fusible link was good these circuits could be supplied by the battery. With the upgrade alternator the fusible link is being replaced by something like a 150 amp fuse so by doing it the way described above power is still being supplied to the under hood fuse box the same as stock.

Hopefully, here are a couple of crude drawings to attempt to illustrate what I was saying. As can be seen in battery bad or fuse blown drawing, it is important to put the stock wire back on the correct side of the new fuse. If it was on the other side of the fuse block and the fuse blew, then no power would go to the under hood fuse box. Just guessing from memory I think this wire to the under hood fuse box feeds the ECU, brake lights, hazards, head lights etc.

 

[Will Van]

There are two wires crimped in the stock "B" post ring connector that attaches to the alternator. One is the charging wire that goes to battery positive through the stock fusible link. The other wire goes from the alternator "B" post to the under hood fuse box. This supplies some critical circuits so if the fusible link blew these circuits could be supplied by the alternator. Likewise, if the alternator went and the fusible link was good these circuits could be supplied by the battery. With the upgrade alternator the fusible link is being replaced by something like a 150 amp fuse so by doing it the way described above power is still being supplied to the under hood fuse box the same as stock.

Hopefully, here are a couple of crude drawings to attempt to illustrate what I was saying. As can be seen in battery bad or fuse blown drawing, it is important to put the stock wire back on the correct side of the new fuse. If it was on the other side of the fuse block and the fuse blew, then no power would go to the under hood fuse box. Just guessing from memory I think this wire to the under hood fuse box feeds the ECU, brake lights, hazards, head lights etc.

Thank you, that's very helpful. I went back and re-read your original post, and finally figured it out.

Instead of routing the white wires from the OEM Fusible Link to the Alternator "B" Post, you're running them from the OEM Fusible Link to the "Alternator Side" of the 150 amp Fuse.

 

[jvazquez53]

Will this work on the 3FE???

 

[Photoman]

No, the bracket bolts to the block and the 3FE is a different block than the 1FZJ.

 

[jvazquez53]

No, the bracket bolts to the block and the 3FE is a different block than the 1FZJ.

 

[Ak1fzj80]

Does anyone still offer the tundra/sequoia alternator bracket?

 

[Ak1fzj80]

I know at least 3 people that would like to buy them.

 

[clx16]

yep you should ask @Photoman if he knows anyone who could hook you up.

 

[JohnnyOshow22]

I know at least 3 people that would like to buy them.

Add a 4th to that list. @Photoman are you still making these?