150 Amp Alternator - Thanks Photoman (1 Viewer)

[LSDbrand]

13.5 is too low, the minimum should be 13.8. Out of curiosity have you tried a different multimeter?, just to confirm your readings? I say that because you are seeing barely 14 when cold and just .3 short of 13.8.

Also try running a new earth cable battery negative to alternator body, and a new from the positive to the alternator B+terminal? Unsure on the gas models, but the diesels have a sensor which detects battery voltage, again needs to be clean and in good condition, just shots in the dark at the moment.

How about borrowing an alternator and just bolting it on, anyone near you? It would at least allow you to discount cables etc?

I am in the same boat re the reg, all seem to be aftermarket crap and either low on output or pack up after a short time.

Regards

Dave

Hey men!

Yeah. I did test 2 multimeters. No luck.

Last night I reinstalled the original alternator. Braket and all. A pain in the ass. Ahahah. But it's working perfect now.

I have the 150A one being tested now and see what comes up. The problem I see is of it is the VR or the diods where to get the OEM ones? Or just buy another used one? Not sure.

Thanks

 

[Cruiserdrew]

doids?

It's almost certainly where the VR is set. It may not be bad. Unfortunately, you can't change the setting. I'll be curious to see if you can find one that puts out a higher voltage. Some newer cars have a variable VR, to put out more voltage when discharged and less once the battery is fully charged. This is controlled by the ECU. Don't know if that's the case with the Sequoia alternator, but I'd ask.

 

[Dave 2000]

doids?

It's almost certainly where the VR is set. It may not be bad. Unfortunately, you can't change the setting. I'll be curious to see if you can find one that puts out a higher voltage. Some newer cars have a variable VR, to put out more voltage when discharged and less once the battery is fully charged. This is controlled by the ECU. Don't know if that's the case with the Sequoia alternator, but I'd ask.

Doids.........probably has the same Samsung learning text tablet that I have.........that has learnt **** all!

The Sequoia is the normal battery voltage sensed machine.........well mine is, which is circa 2009, I would bet later versions are ECU controlled though? I got mine from the state's about six years ago and it performed perfect for that period. it was late last year when it all went wrong, a simple touch of solder with the aftermarket VR, and not much later it went wrong again.

I am thinking a brand new OE unit is the way to go if it is serious reliability we want. But of course that is dinero mucho, I will try and find the part number, mine has the oval connector, some are square, but no problems swapping the plugs about. I will then drop the new..ish OE unit in the trail spares box.

As an asides, I am considering soldering in an external regulator that can be adjusted to suit my requirements, just need some time, and summer is here big time now, so not much happens in this heat.

Regards

Dave.

 

[LSDbrand]

Doids.........probably has the same Samsung learning text tablet that I have.........that has learnt **** all!

The Sequoia is the normal battery voltage sensed machine.........well mine is, which is circa 2009, I would bet later versions are ECU controlled though? I got mine from the state's about six years ag7o and it performed perfect for that period. it was late last year when it all went wrong, a simple touch of solder with the aftermarket VR, and not much later it went wrong again.

I am thinking a brand new OE unit is the way to go if it is serious reliability we want. But of course that is dinero mucho, I will try and find the part number, mine has the oval connector, some are square, but no problems swapping the plugs about. I will then drop the new..ish OE unit in the trail spares box.

As an asides, I am considering soldering in an external regulator that can be adjusted to suit my requirements, just need some time, and summer is here big time now, so not much happens in this heat.

Regards

Dave.

X2 on the external VR!!! do you have a link?

my stock 80Amp alternator is woking well for now, but if i turn on the AC, the high lights and the LED bars its already 67AMP! so at idle the alternator can not keep up, it has to be around 2500 rmp to keep up, the sequioa 150AMP was no problem.

hopefully ill get it fixed

 

[ontopofm]

Okay I looked at my 2 voltage displays while cruising today. Go from 14.1v to 13.8v to 13.5v after a while. I think probably when the batteries are charged up, the alternator does not need to put out as much voltage. I have been running like this for 4 years. I dont think you need worry much.

 

[LSDbrand]

Okay I looked at my 2 voltage displays while cruising today. Go from 14.1v to 13.8v to 13.5v after a while. I think probably when the batteries are charged up, the alternator does not need to put out as much voltage. I have been running like this for 4 years. I dont think you need worry much.

I Think you are fine.

The deal
Is if you turn on your accessories. Lights. Etc and the voltage does not go up. If the batteries are charged there is no need for 14+ volt. But if you are using accessories is should be at least 13.6 or more! For sure.

Today the alternator started having problems! So the good news is that now I have to Chek the the ground cables and wiring. The bad part is if that is the problem I just wasted like a week of changing brackets. Alternators and all.

I'll keep posted.

Any info on how many ground I should have and if this has something to do
With the voltage output?

Thanks.

 

[ontopofm]

I Think you are fine.

The deal
Is if you turn on your accessories. Lights. Etc and the voltage does not go up. If the batteries are charged there is no need for 14+ volt. But if you are using accessories is should be at least 13.6 or more! For sure.

Today the alternator started having problems! So the good news is that now I have to Chek the the ground cables and wiring. The bad part is if that is the problem I just wasted like a week of changing brackets. Alternators and all.

I'll keep posted.

Any info on how many ground I should have and if this has something to do
With the voltage output?

Thanks.

I replaced all the battery wiring with the kit someone put together on here a long time ago. Dont know if the kit is still available but you can build the same kit with welding cable and crimping tool. I think there are 4 ground wires. Battery to body, battery to engine block, engine block to body, engine block to firewall.

 

[Dave 2000]

X2 on the external VR!!! do you have a link?


my stock 80Amp alternator is woking well for now, but if i turn on the AC, the high lights and the LED bars its already 67AMP! so at idle the alternator can not keep up, it has to be around 2500 rmp to keep up, the sequioa 150AMP was no problem.

hopefully ill get it fixed

Have a Google about, there was a few about, IIRC from an upgraded alternator supplier?

Okay I looked at my 2 voltage displays while cruising today. Go from 14.1v to 13.8v to 13.5v after a while. I think probably when the batteries are charged up, the alternator does not need to put out as much voltage. I have been running like this for 4 years. I dont think you need worry much.

Voltage should stay up to at least 13.8.....ish. I say 'ish' as the accuracy of meters varies by some margin, if you are seeing 13.5 from a decent multimeter then there is IME a problem, it is the amps that come down as the battery charges, the amps will go back up if there is demand for example, the headlights are switched on, but voltage should be fairly stable.

If on the other hand you are using a battery charger that is pretty modern, the voltage changes to different 'modes', for example a float mode.

An alternator never is confronted with an engine off or a non demand scenario, the voltage needs to be kept up to supply ECU's, fuel pumps etc.

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

I replaced all the battery wiring with the kit someone put together on here a long time ago. Dont know if the kit is still available but you can build the same kit with welding cable and crimping tool. I think there are 4 ground wires. Battery to body, battery to engine block, engine block to body, engine block with firewall.

I agree a decent set of cables (neg and pos) should always be in place. In theory battery to body, and battery to engine is sufficient. I have seen battery to chassis and battery to engine, this is wrong and will give problems. If someone fits aftermarket accessories and tries to earth via the chassis, this can cause in the worst case scenario a fire. This can be avoided if battery or body to chassis ground is fitted but, too many earths can make location of faults difficult.

Regards

Dave

 

[LSDbrand]

Have a Google about, there was a few about, IIRC from an upgraded alternator supplier?



Voltage should stay up to at least 13.8.....ish. I say 'ish' as the accuracy of meters varies by some margin, if you are seeing 13.5 from a decent multimeter then there is IME a problem, it is the amps that come down as the battery charges, the amps will go back up if there is demand for example, the headlights are switched on, but voltage should be fairly stable.

If on the other hand you are using a battery charger that is pretty modern, the voltage changes to different 'modes', for example a float mode.

An alternator never is confronted with an engine off or a non demand scenario, the voltage needs to be kept up to supply ECU'S, fuel pumps etc.

Regards

Dave

I agree about the amps. The 150A would deliver the amps needed but at 13.1. That is low in any case.

I'll keep all posted on the gound work today see if the saga continues!

 

[Dave 2000]

The volts have to be there to push the amps, hence my preference is to see 13.8 as a minimum. Assuming the various readings were accurate, you cannot charge a battery at 13.5 volts, maintain it yes but not realistically charge it.

Regards

Dave

 

[ontopofm]

I have dual batteries and in this order: Starting the truck, after ~30s, after ~10 minutes cruising

View attachment 1488500

View attachment 1488501

View attachment 1488502

 

[Dave 2000]

^^^^ This is my point, there is either a voltage drop between the two batteries, or one or both of the gauges are not accurate.

Having said that, the difference between them after the short running time is not enough to worry about but, 13.8 is the figure you should be looking for. See if a multimeter at the battery mirrors those numbers.

BTW, love the gauge install!

Regards

Dave

 

[LSDbrand]

I have dual batteries and in this order: Starting the truck, after ~30s, after ~10 minutes cruising

View attachment 1488500

View attachment 1488501

View attachment 1488502

View attachment 1488504

View attachment 1488505

View attachment 1488506

Yeah. That si fine. My problem is it drops to 13.1. 13.8 is a Good number.

 

[LSDbrand]

Hey all. Another voltage alternator question.

How low should the voltage drop while you are winching? Not OMG my car is going to flip 509amp winch. But a good pulling out of mud.

Funny thing. The alternator has been working better since the winching! Jajaj

I out the new ground cable bolted to the top bolt of the alternator. It seem to be working ok. I'll do some more driving tomorrow

 

[Dave 2000]

Hey all. Another voltage alternator question.

How low should the voltage drop while you are winching? Not OMG my car is going to flip 509amp winch. But a good pulling out of mud.

How long is a piece of string? Voltage drop will depend on pre winching voltage, battery condition, applied witching load, and any other accessories running, available alternator amperage/voltage.

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

FWIW I have been out to the car this morning, I took a shed load of readings with photo's. Off out on a call out, expect seriously sad and anal information later.

Regards

Dave

 

[LSDbrand]

How long is a piece of string? Voltage drop will depend on pre witching voltage, battery condition, applied loads, and any other accessories running, available alternator amperage/voltage.

Regards

Dave

Well I was looking at it would drop to about 12.3 while ON for about 30 seconds. First time winching with the multimeter connected. Also the amp draw of the winch was 160amps.

I didn't winch for minutes on end. I would guess this is not good. It was about 10-30 sec interval

Thanks.

 

[Dave 2000]

Well I was looking at it would drop to about 12.3 while ON for about 30 seconds. First time winching with the multimeter connected. Also the amp draw of the winch was 160amps.

I didn't winch for minutes on end. I would guess this is not good. It was about 10-30 sec interval

Thanks.

Did you have an ammeter in line during winching?

Was the engine running at idle/increased revolutions?

If you are running the stock alternator IIRC 80 amps, then a low voltage is to be expected, maintain that draw on your battery and your engine will shut down.

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

OK, here is the data collected this morning. For the record is the following information.

Car has stood for two days minimum.
Alarm was set so parasitic draw on both batteries until VSR disconnected sometime during last night, then alarm load would have been solely on the aux battery.
Interior lights switched off when last parked so not to affect voltage during first test.
Ignition barrel was illuminated, I did not faf about disconnecting that.
Stock 80 map alternator.
Both alternator belts (matched pair), we're new a couple of weeks back, tension good.
Both batteries, dual purpose start and leisure marine versions, new 27th November 2015, so 19 months old.
Engine cooling fan off.
Basic multimeter but stacks up well against my 'Fluke' unit unit I use at the garage.
Monitor is from National Luna, it only displays battery voltage, switching is via Blue Seas VSR.
LED's are permanently on 24/7365.

After standing two days.

Aux battery after two days.

Starter battery after two days.

Aux battery ignition on.

Internal monitor ignition on.

Unsure how much I can upload in one post so, next post will be readings after starting.

Regards

Dave