14 Bolt axles in Land Cruisers

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

So leave out 4 of the bolts. Duh!
 
Mace told me it would, and I believe him.:D
 
I will be working on the disk brake conversion and putting the hubs back on this weekend. I won't receive the R&P until Monday so I can't setup the those parts yet.

Does anyone have some details on how they connected the Chevy brake caliper to Land Cruiser brake line?
 
flex hose
 
Axle cover picture and disk brake picture
The disk brake bracket I received from Ruff Stuff was for a truck 14 bolt when I ordered a C & C. Called Dan and he gave me the bracket for free but I spent $30 for hardware to make it work.

The next problem is that the High Angle drive shaft flange does not fit my 85 and newer non-CV or the older CV drive shaft from the FJ60. Any one else have this problem.

I ordered parts from 4 different companies and so far 3 of them sent me the wrong stuff.
cover.webp
disk_brake.webp
 
I will be working on the disk brake conversion and putting the hubs back on this weekend. I won't receive the R&P until Monday so I can't setup the those parts yet.

Does anyone have some details on how they connected the Chevy brake caliper to Land Cruiser brake line?


Other than flex hose, you can harvest the ferrule nuts on the existing chevy lines. Then build yourself a hybrid line with the 10mm fittings on 1 end and the 3/8 GM fittings on the other. Then you can still use the factory "T", then your hybrid lines to the flex hose associated with the calipers and keep your runs of flex hose short.

The disk brake conversion on a 14 bolt is shockingly cheap and reasonably easy. Use the RuffStuff brackets. Lots of info on Pirate, of which some in the 14 bolt bible is, well, incorrect. You will find that finding the right lug bolts is the biggest challenge-the stock ones have too small of a shoulder to keep the disc itself tight. I shimmed it based on the post on Pirate and that worked great just reusing the stock lugs.

There are differences in the thickness of the tubes, but I think the housings from the CnC trucks have a thicker housing than the SRW ones.
 
I picked up a drive shaft yoke from an 87 4 Runner so that should be the fix to bolt the pre 85 CV FJ60 drive shaft to Toyota adapter to the GM 14 bolt axle.

I think I need to start writting down the year, make and model all the different parts came from that are now on vehicle that is registarted as an 85 Toyota Land Cruiser.
 
I picked up a drive shaft yoke from an 87 4 Runner so that should be the fix to bolt the pre 85 CV FJ60 drive shaft to Toyota adapter to the GM 14 bolt axle.

I think I need to start writting down the year, make and model all the different parts came from that are now on vehicle that is registarted as an 85 Toyota Land Cruiser.



That is funny! good luck... it only gets worse or better from here. depending on how you look at it I guess.

I actually have a 1976, 198?, 1988, 198?, 1991, 1994, 199?, 198? FrankenCruiser!

Includes parts from Toyota, Chevy, Ford, Mitsubishi, Jeep, Honda, Hummer and...?
 
Well the 6 on 5.5 to 8 on 6.5 adapters for the front didn't fit over the hub.:mad:

I called EzAccessory about the problem and they told me lots of people have that problem so I have two choices. 1) send them back 2) have the ID machined out to fit. Option 2 is complete. Oh ya and the studs in the 8 on 6.5 adapter are metric.:mad::mad:

So what's left to do:
1) Put the modified adapters on the front and put the wheels on.
2) Put the machined ring gear in. The pinion is already installed.
3) Connect the brakes.
4) Put the drive shaft in.
5) Make brackets for the anti-wrap bar.
6) Don't forget to put oil in the rear end before driving.
 
adapters

Well the 6 on 5.5 to 8 on 6.5 adapters for the front didn't fit over the hub.:mad:

I called EzAccessory about the problem and they told me lots of people have that problem so I have two choices. 1) send them back 2) have the ID machined out to fit. Option 2 is complete. Oh ya and the studs in the 8 on 6.5 adapter are metric.:mad::mad:

So what's left to do:
1) Put the modified adapters on the front and put the wheels on.
2) Put the machined ring gear in. The pinion is already installed.
3) Connect the brakes.
4) Put the drive shaft in.
5) Make brackets for the anti-wrap bar.
6) Don't forget to put oil in the rear end before driving.

I got a set of these adapters as well. I spent $90 to get two of them machined to fit over the toyota hub. Ended up using different wheels and went back to 6 lug. It is great how you tell them what vehicle they are going on and then they still do not fit. I think they ended up giving me a $25 credit. Good luck with the build
 
I’ve been slowed down a bit over the past three days. I crashed on an ATV and have a bruised hip and sprained ankle. I guess I don’t bounce as good as I used too.

I have the brake lines connected but they need to be bleed. The anti-wrap bar mounts are about half done.

I would go take a couple of pictures to post but that would take about 20 minutes to get to the garage and another 20 minutes to get back.
 
Well, I am going to call this project done.

The brakes seem to still need some bleeding but the cruiser is back on the road.

I ended up putting in a 1" MC from a 93 T100.

So to wrap things up as what others may want to think about if attempting a project like this.

- Order parts early so when you get the wrong parts you have time to get the correct parts before your project goes on hold for lack of correct parts!

- The vendors I worked with all seemed to want to do the right thing even if I didn't get the right thing the first time around.

- EzAccessories has amazing customer service. I called them a couple of times and didn't get through to a real person. A message came on asking me to leave a voice mail and they would call me back. I didn't leave a voice mail and someone called me within a couple of minutes to say that they had missed a phone call from this number.

The Ballistic Fab shave kit is very cool. The cover is heavy duty.

I should be able to get a couple hundred miles on the axle before I bash it on some rocks so that will be the breakin plan. :steer:
all_done.webp
 
That looks great! Time to start playing with the C&C 14bolt I've got stashed in the shop.
 
I have heard that some people run a centered rear with the passenger side drop rear TC and don't have a problem. That would save cutting the tube and swappeing the ends. That is not a big deal but I did spend a lot of time getting the sleeves to fit tight.

Passenger side drop 14 bolt is kind of cool but that assumes someone else notices.
 
Oh ya I did go with a braided stainless steel line from the diff to the frame because I could see all the expansion in the rubber lines.
 
Passenger side drop 14 bolt is kind of cool but that assumes someone else notices.

That's the catch when dealing with anyone other than cruiserheads. No one notices all the time put into minute details unless they're neck deep in the addiction.

Axle looks great! Now, go get it out on the trail!!!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom