14 Bolt axles in Land Cruisers

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Isotel said:
What Gears are you running?

I still think the easiest is to fix your issues, you gotta be able to find a straight rear housing for like $20 locally,

Post up some photos of that sweet Broken shaft!
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Me or him?
both my rigs run 4.56 gears and this is the only shot I have of the busted shaft till I pull it back out, right now it is slid in to hold the truck up.

And on the axle housing... I have a spare rear axle housing from an 85 truck that never went off road... Ill let it go cheap as long as shipping is covered, its just a housing, no backing plates, thirds or diff covers... just a thought if you want a known straight housing.
IMAG0694.webp
 
I parted out my fj60 axles for $700 sold my wheels and tires for $600

I picked up a Ford D60 front and a Ford 10.5 for $200 with driveshafts and wheels and brake master.
Found a ford 205 at the pull yard for $75
went with the all steel adapter for the 203 from stazworks $475
got my tires for used for $350
I was able to go disk in the rear too. found the calipers at the pull yard $40 for the pair. got the brakets from ruff stuff.


I found my deal on craigslist for the axles. I just kept looking for someone parting out an f350. or older one ton chevy. once I got the axles I went looking for the t-case. If you are patient you can find the deals!

There are more fords being parted out than chevys though.

go easy on the skinny pedal for now.
 
I think I have a line on a C&C 14 bolt that is 63" WMS-WMS. If I cut down the passenger side and put two short axles in I will end up with a passenger drop 14 bolt that is 57" WMS-WMS. I will need to change the R&P and get an adapter to connect to my LC drive shaft. I will look for 8 lug 16" wheels but that shouldn't be a problem. The big expense is the R&P but kind of hard to get around that cost. I won't have a rear locker at this point but I took my Aussie locker out of the FJ60 axle so I don't have a locker at this point anyway. The cost will be about the same as rebuilding my FJ60 axle and I end up with a FF stonger axle to go forward with.

I will post pictures when I have something to take pictures of.
 
The difference between a C&C and a standard 14 bolt is just the hubs.

The shafts are identical.
 
Does anyone know if the shafts are the same on the C&C and the standard 14 bolt :flipoff2::flipoff2:

The last three posts are the best series of post I've seen in a long time :beer:
 
PPFJ60 said:
Does anyone know if the shafts are the same on the C&C and the standard 14 bolt :flipoff2::flipoff2:

The last three posts are the best series of post I've seen in a long time :beer:
Click to expand...

The difference between a C&C and a standard 14 bolt is just the hubs.

The shafts are identical.



-Mace:flipoff2:
 
What's so funny?????


:D
 
Very funny, Senor Super-Moderator!:lol:
 
I went with a narrowed 14 bolt this year (June) with modified 6 lug hubs. Friend by the name of Dennis (Turnmeover) did all of the axle work including: narrowing the long side axle to a short side using a 1/2" thick inner sleeve, shaving the ring gear and the housing to install a ballistic shave kit, and milling the hubs down and re-drilling for 6 lug. He's posted somewhere on here with some prices. I've done almost all the same mods to the front axle (FJ60 housing) except I used a LC Wizard spacer and lengthened almost 3 inches, added gussets and small truss for the ram - and with 6 shooters - don't see any need to change it.

I'm super happy to have two decent trips in this past season with no breakage (this is after snapping, bending or twisting "3" Poly axles, one stock axle, roasting a carrier pin [and the carrier and lockright along with it] and a few pinions [actually 4, but 3 were due to operator error]).

Little unnerving having the driveshaft slightly off center - but the u-joints seem be holding up fine.

Fred's40 FJ60 14 bolt build up is the best for info and details - was extremely helpful. I think Dennis also posted up some build pics here - and on the Ballistic 14 bolt shave kit thread.

I have the pricey flange from Jesse - damn nice - small price to pay to be able to use stock mini drive shafts.

If you decide to run a pinion guard AND the high angle flange - be aware that the flange needs to be milled down to work with most pinion guards - call it a bit of shortcoming on industry collaboration. I learned the night before I finished putting it together for a trip that the two were not compatible.

Went to an FJ80 MC to handle the huge 1 ton disk brakes (went with 4 Runner Calipers up front).

Hard to find hex bolts for the narrowed axle flange/hub body to allow you to easily remove a stock Toyota wheel.

I picked up most of my new u-bolts, perches and other related junk from Dan at Ruff Stuff - to get the right perch width, I had to grind out a set of 3" diameter perches to fit the 14 bolt - they might have those in stock by now.
Air-2.webp
 
I picked up a 14 bolt today. I have the axle stripped down and just need to cut off the spring perchs.

shaving the ring gear and the housing to install a ballistic shave kit,
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Do you think the Ballistic shave kit is worth it?

I have the pricey flange from Jesse - damn nice - small price to pay to be able to use stock mini drive shafts.
Click to expand...
I'm planning on using the adapter flange as well.

I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow.
 
Where is this adapter flange? I havent seen this.
 
That is some bling! I love it! It will also get rid of the crappy straps that the 14B comes with.
 
Yup put a set if those on a buddys mini super sweet but ya the piñon guard has to go on first :lol: as the hole was to small to slide it over after
 
I still do not like the pinion guards. Glorified shovels if you ask me..
 
d0365644-13cf-049c.jpg


well it is a shovel on a plow :lol:.... they work well down here .... but I guess like every upgrade they dont all fit in every part of the country:bounce: but heres a pic anyway
 
You ever break the pinion on a 14 bolt? Or seen one break??

I know why people added them to 9" axles.


They do look cool tho :D
 
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