13bt no start …cross post.

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FJBen

SILVER Star
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Apr 1, 2004
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Location
Northern Colorado
Long story short, replaced the head gasket now trying to start and it’s just crank crank with no sputter.
Here’s what I’ve done:

Primed with pump, got pressure
Switched primer pumps same thing
Cracked injector lines, spits of diesel come out
Pressurized tank with air, cranked
Unplugged the shutoff butterfly
Jiggled fuel shut off lever

Nothing has even got me a sputter yet. I’m running out of ideas. A little smoke comes out on crank but Probabaly oil.


Any thoughts?
 
Does it cough with a spray of ether/brake clean?
 
I am only experienced with rotary injection pumps so it's not worth much, but I've heard of the governor 'rack' (not sure this is the correct term) in inline pumps can get stuck in a fully open or fully closed position.

Reminds me of the first time I rebuilt a VE pump and put the governor in the wrong way round. I could spin the engine over at speed with all the plugs out and nothing came out. Possibly your pump is putting out a dribble of diesel, but not enough to open the injectors...
 
I am only experienced with rotary injection pumps so it's not worth much, but I've heard of the governor 'rack' (not sure this is the correct term) in inline pumps can get stuck in a fully open or fully closed position.

Reminds me of the first time I rebuilt a VE pump and put the governor in the wrong way round. I could spin the engine over at speed with all the plugs out and nothing came out. Possibly your pump is putting out a dribble of diesel, but not enough to open the injectors...

Yeah the injection pump and injectors were rebuilt 40,000 miles ago. Everything ran beautifully. Pulled the head because of an external leak and now this no start.
 
Is the shut down air shutter confirmed open?

hth’s
gb
 
No mention of Glow plugs working? Should fire right up with either ? But sounds like you have fuel?
 
No mention of Glow plugs working? Should fire right up with either ? But sounds like you have fuel?
No mention of glow plugs because the 13B does not have any.
 
Not certain on your location, but the 13bt glow system is a dog in the 0 degree Celsius or 32F range. Unplug the temp sensor near front/top of engine. Now your glow system should light up and really help the starting process.
Make sure you unplug the glow sensor and not the gauge sensor.
If you have fuel at injectors, no other reason for it not to start, cough, spit...
Use the proper brake clean if trying to help it start. You're looking for the label with an explosive symbol. Some brake cleans do not burn.
 
Not certain on your location, but the 13bt glow system is a dog in the 0 degree Celsius or 32F range. Unplug the temp sensor near front/top of engine. Now your glow system should light up and really help the starting process.
Make sure you unplug the glow sensor and not the gauge sensor.
If you have fuel at injectors, no other reason for it not to start, cough, spit...
Use the proper brake clean if trying to help it start. You're looking for the label with an explosive symbol. Some brake cleans do not burn.

I’m in Colorado but it’s been nearly 60 degrees the last week. I tried the glow screen hack as well and zero difference last week. owned this 5 years and never had an issue starting issues even after a fresh rebuild.
I’ve started in -12F without any other help.

I don’t understand why it’s not trying at all. That’s what’s throwing me.

Possible big enough air bubble that it shows spits of fuel but isn’t really pushing fuel out the injectors?
 
Again, I don't have experience with inline pumps, but could it be that ypu have the injection pump timed to #1 cylinder TDC on the exhaust stroke rather than compression stroke?
 
@Eurasiaoverland

I dont think that’s possible. It was running great. Just pulled the head to fix an external gasket leak. I did pull the front cover to fix a leak as well, and the automatic timer came off, (has too) but nothing moved or turned so I don’t think it’s possible for that to change. The automatic timer is keyed so only can fit one way.
 
Maybe it is time to try running directly off a can of diesel? Plumb it right to the IP and crank with the injectors cracked for 30+ seconds, then see if it will fire.
 
Maybe it is time to try running directly off a can of diesel? Plumb it right to the IP and crank with the injectors cracked for 30+ seconds, then see if it will fire.
I think I’m going to try the cranking for 20 -30
With the injectors cracked.

I also noticed I’m sitting nose down….going to get the tractor squeezed in there and pull it nose up.
 
I think I’m going to try the cranking for 20 -30
With the injectors cracked.

I also noticed I’m sitting nose down….going to get the tractor squeezed in there and pull it nose up.
13b doesnt have a timing belt but I presume it has timing marks on different gears that have to line up?

I presume you checked this right?

As long as fuel is being delivered/not stopped by fuel seneloid or equivalent on the 13b and timing is correct and nothing was changed wrt injection pump during head replacement then it SHOULD work

the fact that you get nothing suggests an issue with fuel/timing or less likely compression

I did a head on a 1HZ a couple weeks back and it started up right away without fuss/muss/priming...I think I turned it over 4 times for 3-4 seconds each attempt and bam....
 
13b doesnt have a timing belt but I presume it has timing marks on different gears that have to line up?

I presume you checked this right?

As long as fuel is being delivered/not stopped by fuel seneloid or equivalent on the 13b and timing is correct and nothing was changed wrt injection pump during head replacement then it SHOULD work

the fact that you get nothing suggests an issue with fuel/timing or less likely compression

I did a head on a 1HZ a couple weeks back and it started up right away without fuss/muss/priming...I think I turned it over 4 times for 3-4 seconds each attempt and bam....

It has timing marks, but nothing moved. It’s gears and you don’t have to do anything when pulling the head. I would have had to turn the crank with the automatic timer off to change that.

Still might be worth spill timing again to see where I’m at.

I’ve never had issues changing fuel filters or anything when priming again.
It’s cranking like it normally does, just not sputtering. I’m going to try really cranking out those injector lines to get fuel or any air out.
 
Clear fuel lines, look for fuel, not air bubbles.
Example.
Took the fuel tank out of this 2007 Argo Centaur with a 950cc Diahatsu diesel.
Wanted heat in the cab, so ran some clear hoses to intake and return.
Hoses were a bit oversize, but nothing a good clamp couldn't handle.
Pull fuel before the primer, you should get clear fuel...no air bubbles.

20241204_122325.jpg


20241204_095301.jpg
 
So I got some starting fluid (with upper end lubricant).

Took off crossover pipe and quick sprayed. She stumbled and coughed. Sprayed again, same thing. Sprayed a little more same thing with fire/sputter run

So I’m pretty sure timing should be correct.
Compression should be fine.

Am I still correct in thinking it’s a fuel delivery issue?

Thinking about slapping the mighty vac on the filter bleed nipple and see if I there is any air hiding.
 

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