100 Series transfer case stop leak option?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 18, 2023
Threads
8
Messages
58
Location
910 NC
Good afternoon everyone,
I recently purchased a 2002 Land Cruiser that had great service records, and was well maintained (or at least I thought so.) I'm has 225k miles on it, and runs well. I was looking over some service records, and found the original owners phone number, so I reached out to speak with him in regards to the lift that was installed while he was the owner. After chatting with him a bit, he asked if the transfer case leak was ever resolved. This was news to me, so I crawled under the LC, and I most definitely have a leak, and the fluid is definitely low.
At this moment in time I do not have the funds to pull it out, and have it repaired. My questions are:
1) is there an additive, that I can use to band-aid/slow the leak until I have the funds to fix it correctly that will not have long term negative effects?
2) How much can I expect the repair to set me back financially?

I am located in Wilmington, NC. If anyone happens to know a reputable mechanic that I can trust to do this job correctly..
Thank you in advance

20231014_170930.webp
 
Three main external seals (input, front output, and rear output). Depends on which is leaking determines how difficult/time consuming the repair. Rear is easiest.

AT-205 is the recommended stop leak around here.
 
Post some pics. I would start by adding AT-205 and gear oil, and seeing if that does the trick. My front output leak stopped for about 40k miles, IIRC.

The rear can be done without removing the transfer case, unfortunately the front requires removal. The parts aren’t expensive (bearings, seals, and FIPG), but you’re looking at a weekend project and you need a transmission jack and hydraulic press.

 
I did the rear seal and did not use a press. I am sure front can be done without a press too.
 
I did the rear seal and did not use a press. I am sure front can be done without a press too.
After trying many different ways for a couple hours without success, I broke down and bought a press. My hat’s off to you.
 
After trying many different ways for a couple hours without success, I broke down and bought a press. My hat’s off to you.
Mine was 100% west TX vehicle since new so no rust at all. Basically a single tap from a mallot got the bearing out. I have a thread of doing it on this forum.
 
Mine was 100% west TX vehicle since new so no rust at all. Basically a single tap from a mallot got the bearing out. I have a thread of doing it on this forum.
North TX here, and the bearing and gear are inside the transfer case anyway ;).
 
Thanks for the insight,
I will try to get some pics today while I still have decent lighting.
I had to work later than expected yesterday. I ran to the parts store after work and picked up AT-205 and some Mobil1 75w90. (It was a little less than half of a quart low.) I have topped it off for the time being with just the gear oil due to not having a way to get the AT-205 in (I now have a pump I can use without making a huge mess) how much of the AT-205 should I use for the transfer case?
 
When I used it for my PS rack leak, I followed the guidelines on the package. I don't recall what they were, but I assume the screenshot below from their youtube video on this page is the same:

1699368876983.webp


Our tcase holds ~1.5 qts, so 2.25-ish oz would be their recommended amount.
 
Update: I have given it some time, and the AT205 has seemingly resolved the transfer case leak.
Thank you for the insight everyone.

Now to figure out the front dif leak.
 
I have developed a very small drip See highlighted yellow circle Is this likely the gasket going bad? Seems like AT-205 is a possible fix. What would you guys recommend? This is a 2000 LC . Thanks
IMG_6321.webp


I have
 
Wouldn't hurt. But could it be leaking from the drain plug? There's a copper crush washer that goes on the plug that should be replaced periodically.
 
AT205 will not help that, it helps rubber stay pliable. There are no rubber gaskets on the transfer case, the orange you see is Toyota Form in Place Gasket (FIPG).

I agree with @Dirt J its likely the drain plug gasket.
 
Goducks, I'm the OP of this thread.
I would guess its the seal, as mine was developing fluid in the same area (mine was alot more than what you have in the photo)
Like mentionsd above, make sure to check/replace your crush washer. I replaced mine, added the recommended amount of AT-205, then cleaned the exterior of the case really well. I continued to keep an eye on it (once a week or so) looking for any signs of leaking.
That was over 9,000 miles ago, and still no signs of leakage. I removed my fill plug last week, and the fluid level is exactly where I left it.
Follow the guidelines of the attached image:

1699368876983.webp
 
Last edited:
I just exchanged the fluid about a month ago and pretty sure I used the correct crush washer. I don’t see any evidence of leaking from the fill of drain bolts. Of trying the at205 fix, is it best to drain and redo with proper at205 mix?
 
Just wanted to add to this forum- I had a leak on my front output shaft seal for the TC on my 06 lx. The leak would drip down and while cruising on the highway fly back and hit the muffler causing it to smoke. This was about 700 miles from home so replacing the seal was out of the question at the moment.

I used AT-205 and it freaking worked. I never trust additives like that as I view them as snake oil but after about another 2 hours of driving the leak ceased and the smoking went away. I would definitely consider it if you have a small leak that’s causing similar symptoms.
 
Sounds like a commercial for snake oil, but AT-205 does work well. Tried it in my steering rack for a couple years until I replaced it, and there was almost no fluid loss during that time, used it on my 03 Ranger rear axle, dry since..
Used it on smokey BMWs several times, saved a few sales by clearing exhaust smoke and valve cover smoke, leaky turbos on Audi's, all worked as a band aid, but it does what it advertises.
First time used thanks to this forum, and I'm glad it wasn't just a fluke.
 
I had similar TC front and rear input shaft leak. Wanted to give a shot for AT 205, just wondering if it’s okay to mix with standard toyota 75W-90 oil or it has to be synthetic oil?
 
I had a leak after rebuilding mine with high and low gears. I was lazy and didn’t replace the fill/drain plug crush washers. New washers cured the leak.
 
I had similar TC front and rear input shaft leak. Wanted to give a shot for AT 205, just wondering if it’s okay to mix with standard toyota 75W-90 oil or it has to be synthetic oil?
You can mix it with any oil.
 
Back
Top Bottom