100 Series transfer case stop leak option? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 18, 2023
Threads
3
Messages
35
Location
910 NC
Good afternoon everyone,
I recently purchased a 2002 Land Cruiser that had great service records, and was well maintained (or at least I thought so.) I'm has 225k miles on it, and runs well. I was looking over some service records, and found the original owners phone number, so I reached out to speak with him in regards to the lift that was installed while he was the owner. After chatting with him a bit, he asked if the transfer case leak was ever resolved. This was news to me, so I crawled under the LC, and I most definitely have a leak, and the fluid is definitely low.
At this moment in time I do not have the funds to pull it out, and have it repaired. My questions are:
1) is there an additive, that I can use to band-aid/slow the leak until I have the funds to fix it correctly that will not have long term negative effects?
2) How much can I expect the repair to set me back financially?

I am located in Wilmington, NC. If anyone happens to know a reputable mechanic that I can trust to do this job correctly..
Thank you in advance

20231014_170930.jpg
 
Three main external seals (input, front output, and rear output). Depends on which is leaking determines how difficult/time consuming the repair. Rear is easiest.

AT-205 is the recommended stop leak around here.
 
Post some pics. I would start by adding AT-205 and gear oil, and seeing if that does the trick. My front output leak stopped for about 40k miles, IIRC.

The rear can be done without removing the transfer case, unfortunately the front requires removal. The parts aren’t expensive (bearings, seals, and FIPG), but you’re looking at a weekend project and you need a transmission jack and hydraulic press.

 
I did the rear seal and did not use a press. I am sure front can be done without a press too.
 
I did the rear seal and did not use a press. I am sure front can be done without a press too.
After trying many different ways for a couple hours without success, I broke down and bought a press. My hat’s off to you.
 
After trying many different ways for a couple hours without success, I broke down and bought a press. My hat’s off to you.
Mine was 100% west TX vehicle since new so no rust at all. Basically a single tap from a mallot got the bearing out. I have a thread of doing it on this forum.
 
Mine was 100% west TX vehicle since new so no rust at all. Basically a single tap from a mallot got the bearing out. I have a thread of doing it on this forum.
North TX here, and the bearing and gear are inside the transfer case anyway ;).
 
Thanks for the insight,
I will try to get some pics today while I still have decent lighting.
I had to work later than expected yesterday. I ran to the parts store after work and picked up AT-205 and some Mobil1 75w90. (It was a little less than half of a quart low.) I have topped it off for the time being with just the gear oil due to not having a way to get the AT-205 in (I now have a pump I can use without making a huge mess) how much of the AT-205 should I use for the transfer case?
 
When I used it for my PS rack leak, I followed the guidelines on the package. I don't recall what they were, but I assume the screenshot below from their youtube video on this page is the same:

1699368876983.png


Our tcase holds ~1.5 qts, so 2.25-ish oz would be their recommended amount.
 
Update: I have given it some time, and the AT205 has seemingly resolved the transfer case leak.
Thank you for the insight everyone.

Now to figure out the front dif leak.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom