Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
It looks great, but the extended Dobinson's shocks aren't a long travel set up.
Yup, not long travel. Rear end will be great, but still have them short LCA's and torsion bars up front and zero down travel....
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It looks great, but the extended Dobinson's shocks aren't a long travel set up.
dobinsons doesnt sell a long travel kit for the 100 series, so by using 80 series rear springs and dampers you gain 4" of droop compaired to the 3" mrr kit. this pertains to the rear, because there are no real options for a long travel front.
long travel is long travel, front or rear its more droop.Yup, not long travel. Rear end will be great, but still have them short LCA's and torsion bars up front and zero down travel....
if you go back and read for a sec youll see i said that at the bottom of page 5. i was just trying to show how its not hard to gain a little extra travel.No one makes a long travel kit for the 100.
long travel is long travel, front or rear its more droop.
ok, so are dobinsons 100 series front mrr "long travel" shocks not long travel?A little extra travel isn't long travel.
Cool, the rear end flexes, but the front still has torsion bars and zero down travel.
ok, so are dobinsons 100 series front mrr "long travel" shocks not long travel?
yeah, so the dobinsons front long travel are not monotube so they have a larger delta (minumum to maximum size) so you are gaining, were doing a diff drop and thats to correct cv angle so we can droop more, then because the tires will tuck into the wheel well to the same point as stock we are gaining travel.No, they are not. They want you to feel warm and fuzzy about it, meanwhile your full droop and full bump are never changed. Droop is limited by CV bind. Unless you change the suspension kinematics, you aren't gaining anything.
do you have a 100 series any more?No, they are not. They want you to feel warm and fuzzy about it, meanwhile your full droop and full bump are never changed. Droop is limited by CV bind. Unless you change the suspension kinematics, you aren't gaining anything.
Doesn't mean those MRR's don't feel great... but to call it long travel makes us look like a bunch of dentists
He reached max mod potential on his 100 and upgraded to a superior 80 series. As you have or are finding out, suspension travel gains are nominal on the 100 series no matter how you slice it. The torsion bar setup is the primary limiter and there’s no getting around it without tens of thousands of dollars, which, at that point, just ditch the IFS altogether or buy a different vehicle. It’s not worth the time or money to try to “long-travel” the 100 series. It is a path to nowhere other than lost time and empty pockets…do you have a 100 series any more?
Eh.ok, so are dobinsons 100 series front mrr "long travel" shocks not long travel?
ok, so at what point does it become “long enough” what is long enough for you mongoose? we know like ‘em long.Eh.
"Longer" but not necessarily "long".
When you get wider upper AND lower control arms.ok, so at what point does it become “long enough” what is long enough for you mongoose? we know like ‘em long.
ok well i’m sorry, looks like this is as “long” as it’s gonna get for now.When you get wider upper AND lower control arms.
I'd say you'd need to actually improve the angles the CV can operate at and go from there. Barring that, a slightly longer shock leaves you with the same limits and beyond that, potentially more risk to your originally designed CVs.ok, so at what point does it become “long enough” what is long enough for you mongoose? we know I like ‘em long.
yeah i get the turbonador part, but in my original post i talk about how i didn’t want to mess with the ifs bc of reliability ie. keeping the cv’s safe. i posted to say and show my discovery’s on how a normal person can do a long travel rear without moving the shock mounts or anything extreme. i wrote on this thread to encourage regular people not fabricators how to squeeze out a little more performance on a chassis that is already challenged by torsion bars.I'd say you'd need to actually improve the angles the CV can operate at and go from there. Barring that, a slightly longer shock leaves you with the same limits and beyond that, potentially more risk to your originally designed CVs.
Similar to a real long travel conversion, nobody makes a bolt- on remote mount turbo kit for our trucks either. But we're not our here running turbonadors in our intake saying it's the same thing.
You don’t need to be sorry. And yes, that’s what we’ve been saying.ok well i’m sorry, looks like this is as “long” as it’s gonna get for now.
yeah i get the turbonador part, but in my original post i talk about how i didn’t want to mess with the ifs bc of reliability ie. keeping the cv’s safe. i posted to say and show my discovery’s on how a normal person can do a long travel rear without moving the shock mounts or anything extreme. i wrote on this thread to encourage regular people not fabricators how to squeeze out a little more performance on a chassis that is already challenged by torsion bars.
i was talking extreme modification, like stuff that requires a welder ( moving shock mounts, fabing up custom lca’s).You don’t need to be sorry. And yes, that’s what we’ve been saying.
Torsion bars were by far the worst thing to happen to the 100.
80 folks been doing this. Who is doing anything extreme with a 100?
i was talking extreme modification, like stuff that requires a welder ( moving shock mounts, fabing up custom lca’s).