100 Series long travel kit

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It looks great, but the extended Dobinson's shocks aren't a long travel set up.

Yup, not long travel. Rear end will be great, but still have them short LCA's and torsion bars up front and zero down travel....
 
dobinsons doesnt sell a long travel kit for the 100 series, so by using 80 series rear springs and dampers you gain 4" of droop compaired to the 3" mrr kit. this pertains to the rear, because there are no real options for a long travel front.

No one makes a long travel kit for the 100.
 
long travel is long travel, front or rear its more droop.

A little extra travel isn't long travel.


Cool, the rear end flexes, but the front still has torsion bars and zero down travel.
 
i get what youre saying, and it pertains to like a 5th gen 4 runner where you can do like total chaos lca and king shocks to get a ton of down travel bu that isnt an option with torsion bars so this is the "longest travel" option for us 100 series guys.
 
ok, so are dobinsons 100 series front mrr "long travel" shocks not long travel?

No, they are not. They want you to feel warm and fuzzy about it, meanwhile your full droop and full bump are never changed. Droop is limited by CV bind. Unless you change the suspension kinematics, you aren't gaining anything.

Doesn't mean those MRR's don't feel great... but to call it long travel makes us look like a bunch of dentists
 
No, they are not. They want you to feel warm and fuzzy about it, meanwhile your full droop and full bump are never changed. Droop is limited by CV bind. Unless you change the suspension kinematics, you aren't gaining anything.
yeah, so the dobinsons front long travel are not monotube so they have a larger delta (minumum to maximum size) so you are gaining, were doing a diff drop and thats to correct cv angle so we can droop more, then because the tires will tuck into the wheel well to the same point as stock we are gaining travel.
 
No, they are not. They want you to feel warm and fuzzy about it, meanwhile your full droop and full bump are never changed. Droop is limited by CV bind. Unless you change the suspension kinematics, you aren't gaining anything.

Doesn't mean those MRR's don't feel great... but to call it long travel makes us look like a bunch of dentists
do you have a 100 series any more?
 
do you have a 100 series any more?
He reached max mod potential on his 100 and upgraded to a superior 80 series. As you have or are finding out, suspension travel gains are nominal on the 100 series no matter how you slice it. The torsion bar setup is the primary limiter and there’s no getting around it without tens of thousands of dollars, which, at that point, just ditch the IFS altogether or buy a different vehicle. It’s not worth the time or money to try to “long-travel” the 100 series. It is a path to nowhere other than lost time and empty pockets…
 
ok, so at what point does it become “long enough” what is long enough for you mongoose? we know I like ‘em long.
I'd say you'd need to actually improve the angles the CV can operate at and go from there. Barring that, a slightly longer shock leaves you with the same limits and beyond that, potentially more risk to your originally designed CVs.

Similar to a real long travel conversion, nobody makes a bolt- on remote mount turbo kit for our trucks either. But we're not our here running turbonadors in our intake saying it's the same thing.
 
I'd say you'd need to actually improve the angles the CV can operate at and go from there. Barring that, a slightly longer shock leaves you with the same limits and beyond that, potentially more risk to your originally designed CVs.

Similar to a real long travel conversion, nobody makes a bolt- on remote mount turbo kit for our trucks either. But we're not our here running turbonadors in our intake saying it's the same thing.
yeah i get the turbonador part, but in my original post i talk about how i didn’t want to mess with the ifs bc of reliability ie. keeping the cv’s safe. i posted to say and show my discovery’s on how a normal person can do a long travel rear without moving the shock mounts or anything extreme. i wrote on this thread to encourage regular people not fabricators how to squeeze out a little more performance on a chassis that is already challenged by torsion bars.
 
ok well i’m sorry, looks like this is as “long” as it’s gonna get for now.
You don’t need to be sorry. And yes, that’s what we’ve been saying.

Torsion bars were by far the worst thing to happen to the 100.

yeah i get the turbonador part, but in my original post i talk about how i didn’t want to mess with the ifs bc of reliability ie. keeping the cv’s safe. i posted to say and show my discovery’s on how a normal person can do a long travel rear without moving the shock mounts or anything extreme. i wrote on this thread to encourage regular people not fabricators how to squeeze out a little more performance on a chassis that is already challenged by torsion bars.

80 folks been doing this. Who is doing anything extreme with a 100?
 
i was talking extreme modification, like stuff that requires a welder ( moving shock mounts, fabing up custom lca’s).

Exactly, who is doing any of that?
One guy did a DIY coilover brace monstrosity thing that was horrific. The few others are just doing coil over swap and copying the LCA. No change in suspension kinematics what so ever. No one is moving shock mounts in the rear, at least not that I’ve seen… and everyone knows i troll mud and the fb groups because i have no life (ask @JunkCrzr89, he will confirm)

Once you get to the bottom of the rabbit hole you realize it’s easier and cheaper to get a 80 or a 200. It’s why my 100 is gone.
 

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