06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass (1 Viewer)

[jerryb]

Paul, (the colorado Paul) I think I told you my filter was gone but I didn't take the cover apart.
I also took pictures of all cat faces on both sides. They are unremarkable. Except for one whiter patch on the drivers side front of the number 1 cat.

Have you seen these numbers on the back face of both number 2 cats?

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

@hewitttech
A pending P1442 came back today along with a P1445.

After a few drives, I had time to de-crimp and solder the connections.
I verified they are the same wires as in the instruction sheet.
Green to pin# 23, Blue/Red
Brown to pin #28, Brown
Blue to pin#32, Blue/White

They are all wrapped up with quality electrical tape up and awaiting a +7 hour idle time and OAT 41F and greater.

The codes of course cleared with the - battery terminal unhooked.

Fingers crossed it was just a faulty connection from the scotchlocks.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

@hewitttech

I reseated the connectors at the Gen 2 box yesterday to ensure they were secure. Then I let it sit overnight but it was 36F this morning when I started it.

It threw a pending P1442 again. Since it didn't have the P1445 code along with it like yesterday, I suppose that this is a newly thrown pending code.

I did not clear the code or remove the battery -negative terminal this time.

I am letting it sit for another 7 hours when temps will be above 41F. Fingers crossed that the pending will be inhibited and I get a "READY" status after that.

If that doesn't work, what's next? Swap out the control box with a replacement?

 

[2001LC]

From what I have seen the noise is the plastic air pump vanes grinding against the pump body. Once you hear the noise the problem usually gets worse pretty quickly with either total pump vane failure or the pump motor itself draws more and more current as it is harder to spin and the pumps usually end up burning themselves open circuit.
It is entirely possible the start of this could be the filter getting ingested. I may be one of the leading experts but I have not pulled enough of them apart to make any sort of definitive claim of why they fail and just stick with the time and temperature reasoning on the plastic.
As someone else mentioned the whole point of the bypass kit is so you don't have to mess with any of that. There are enough posts around the web from others pulling them apart that there could be some merit to the filter as a start but just not something definitive.

Thank you for the reply.

I'd like to probe a bit further. With the A.I pumps you have looked into. Can you give any feedback on how many that is and what percentage of those; were the filter denigrated, partial gone or failing? Just round number will do!

 

[2001LC]

Paul, (the colorado Paul) I think I told you my filter was gone but I didn't take the cover apart.
I also took pictures of all cat faces on both sides. They are unremarkable. Except for one whiter patch on the drivers side front of the number 1 cat.

Have you seen these numbers on the back face of both number 2 cats?

View attachment 2885593

View attachment 2885594

View attachment 2885595

I just now looked at a video I did just after pulling DS CAT. Yes! I do see the numbers. But either you've a much better camera or my number are very faded on rear of aft CAT. I barley see the 3 and the 8, and I can partially make-out the 4. The six is just to obscure to make-out anything of. But I'd bet they are the same "6438".

I also notice between forward & aft CAT. I've about a table spoon of white granular materiel.

My guess, is the white patch in face of your forward cat. Is where foam or plastic hit and melted.

IIRC; you never did get P0420 or P0430 DTC. So why did you pulled your CATs?
Did you get any S.A.I DTC?

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I got mine all installed and took it for a spin. My ScanGauge II showed "READY" on start up but shortly after it went to "NOT READY". No faults are present and the check engine light is out. Cleared it before disconnecting the battery.

Do I need to go through the FSM readiness routine; i.e. drive at various speeds for certain lengths of time, to get it "READY" in order to do a Smog check?

If you installed a Gen1 bypass kit the system is prevented from running and will never show ready. If this is a Gen2 kit you will need to wait until the system tries to operate normally when the initial engine temp. is above 41F and the engine has been off for 7hrs or longer.

@hewitttech
Thanks for your reply.

I turned it on several times and took it for a short drive over the past couple of days, then today after starting it up and letting it idle, I saw the check engine light on, I scanned the code with my ScanGauge II and it threw the P1442 code. I cleared it but curious as the why it tripped again.
I have your Gen 2 - 3 Valve unit in my '07 LX470. Each time I started the engine the temp has been above 41F. The time it threw the code it had not sat for over 7 hours.

@hewitttech
So I drove it several times after clearing the last P1442 code then I let it sit for greater than 7 hours and outside temp was 43F at startup and I have a pending P1442 code again.

What's up with your Gen 2-3 valve control box? It's supposed to inhibit these codes is it not?

Perhaps it's a faulty box?

I received this kit during the summer. So maybe it was from a bad batch?

Just curious as what is going on here. I'd like to get it ready for a smog check

With a Gen2-3V unit there should be no trouble codes being thrown. If there are troubles like this after installation the first thing we look at are the connections to the wiring at the ECM. If the scotchlok connectors were used during the installation we recommend going back and soldering those connections properly. Any extra resistance in those connections and the units will not operate correctly. If you still have problems after doing that please give us a call and shoot us an email. We like to take a look at the physical connections that you have if you can take pictures of them so we can see the bare solder connections and identify the wire colors and pins of the ECM connector.

Thanks for your reply. I did use the crimp connectors to expedite the install as I had a big delay with the block off plate nut rounding .

I will check the connections and solder them in place this time.

The pending P1442 did go away after a few drives today.

@hewitttech
A pending P1442 came back today along with a P1445.

After a few drives, I had time to de-crimp and solder the connections.
I verified they are the same wires as in the instruction sheet.
Green to pin# 23, Blue/Red
Brown to pin #28, Brown
Blue to pin#32, Blue/White

They are all wrapped up with quality electrical tape up and awaiting a +7 hour idle time and OAT 41F and greater.

The codes of course cleared with the - battery terminal unhooked.

Fingers crossed it was just a faulty connection from the scotchlocks.
View attachment 2886189View attachment 2886190
View attachment 2886191

@hewitttech

I reseated the connectors at the Gen 2 box yesterday to ensure they were secure. Then I let it sit overnight but it was 36F this morning when I started it.

It threw a pending P1442 again. Since it didn't have the P1445 code along with it like yesterday, I suppose that this is a newly thrown pending code.

I did not clear the code or remove the battery -negative terminal this time.

I am letting it sit for another 7 hours when temps will be above 41F. Fingers crossed that the pending will be inhibited and I get a "READY" status after that.

If that doesn't work, what's next? Swap out the control box with a replacement?

@hewitttech

I quoted all of our posts for continuity and future trouble shooting...

I let the vehicle sit for 7 1/2 hours today and restarted it with outside air temp of 43F.
After idling for 10 minutes the pending P1442 is still there and the ECM is still in the "Not Ready" state.

I called your company this afternoon and spoke with a woman who said to takes a few drive cycles to clear & to call back if it throws a Check Engine Light.

Question to you is how many engine cycles are required for this to go back to ready?

 

[hewitttech]

@hewitttech

I quoted all of our posts for continuity and future trouble shooting...

I let the vehicle sit for 7 1/2 hours today and restarted it with outside air temp of 43F.
After idling for 10 minutes the pending P1442 is still there and the ECM is still in the "Not Ready" state.

I called your company this afternoon and spoke with a woman who said to takes a few drive cycles to clear & to call back if it throws a Check Engine Light.

Question to you is how many engine cycles are required for this to go back to ready?

You should not be getting any pending codes after a reset. As far as the "readiness monitors" they cannot/will not show ready if there are any issues such as pending or active codes show up for the system in question. The normal way the Gen2 kit would work.. after clearing the active/pending codes and then on the next cold soak (ignition off for at least 7 hours) where the initial engine temperature is above 41F is when the system would normally be commanded to run. This is when the unit would first operate and as long as there are no issues, it will then let the system show as a pass/complete/ready. This is also when any permanent codes on the 2009 and newer vehicles would drop out by themselves. If there are any pending or active codes after the unit runs it will not show ready and the permanent codes will still remain.

Going back and soldering the connections, they look good enough that they should not be the issue. It would appear to be a problem with the unit that you have and my rep possibly was mistaken in what she recommended. We will need to get you a new one as soon as they are available again. Please call back and ask for Derek. He will likely want to go through some of this again just to make sure nothing was missed but I will fill him in beforehand.

Until we can get you a replacement and as long as it is not going into limp mode you are perfectly safe to drive it. That is not ideal and I hate to even suggest it but I want to make absolutely certain I have the issue corrected before we send a replacement unit. Please bear with me and if need be, we can discuss other solutions.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

You should not be getting any pending codes after a reset. As far as the "readiness monitors" they cannot/will not show ready if there are any issues such as pending or active codes show up for the system in question. The normal way the Gen2 kit would work.. after clearing the active/pending codes and then on the next cold soak (ignition off for at least 7 hours) where the initial engine temperature is above 41F is when the system would normally be commanded to run. This is when the unit would first operate and as long as there are no issues, it will then let the system show as a pass/complete/ready. This is also when any permanent codes on the 2009 and newer vehicles would drop out by themselves. If there are any pending or active codes after the unit runs it will not show ready and the permanent codes will still remain.

Going back and soldering the connections, they look good enough that they should not be the issue. It would appear to be a problem with the unit that you have and my rep possibly was mistaken in what she recommended. We will need to get you a new one as soon as they are available again. Please call back and ask for Derek. He will likely want to go through some of this again just to make sure nothing was missed but I will fill him in beforehand.

Until we can get you a replacement and as long as it is not going into limp mode you are perfectly safe to drive it. That is not ideal and I hate to even suggest it but I want to make absolutely certain I have the issue corrected before we send a replacement unit. Please bear with me and if need be, we can discuss other solutions.

Thanks @hewitttech

I appreciate the detailed response. I am no longer getting any AIP related codes or any other codes, since my last post.

It shows "not ready" with "no pending codes" every time I drive.

Perhaps it just needs some more driving cycles in order to show "ready". The FSM shows a series of times at various speeds to be driven after a battery replacement. Maybe all of the repeated clearing of codes and battery disconnects are requiring the ECU to go through these?

I will try a different code reader to see if it can yield some additional info over the ScanGaugeII. Unfortunately, I don't have TechStream yet but it would definitely be worthwhile right now.

I attached a pic of the "not ready" scan from the smog station from right after initial install with the ScotchLocks. This was right after battery reconnection so some of the "not ready" codes maybe be attributed to that. Perhaps this info will clue you into something that I'm not privy to.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

@hewitttech
Looks like the "Not Ready" now is only from the EVAP System Monitor.

The rest of the monitors are showing ready.

I guess your system did clear out the P1442 & P1445.

I did swap in a new gas cap when I installed the HewittTech system.

Thinking that might be a contributing factor. So I put the old one back on.

Fingers crossed it shows ready after some more driving.

 

[hewitttech]

Glad to hear that and it sounds like you have it now. There are certainly a couple of things going on to consider why.
First, going back and soldering the connections is the first thing we recommend. Soldering during the installation vs using the Scotchloks is highly recommended for this reason. Even though I thoroughly tested these particular connectors and couldn't see a difference between them and soldering, they do have room to not be perfect depending on the installer. These tiny differences matter a lot for some of the small signals we are dealing with. Properly soldering the connections is always the best options and your did a lot better job than many that we see. The solder should always look nice and wet/shiny, not balled up and wicked into the copper where it looks like it is a good wet coating on all the copper strands. That will yield the lowest resistance connections which is the important part.

The Gas cap should not have been a contributing factor. However, I have seen some people believe that the gas cap is what has caused their secondary air valve code(s) and even their catalyst inefficiency codes. I believe most of that to be coincidental at best but there still may be some aspect of it that contributed. I just don't think there is a direct correlation there but still within the realm of possibilities.

On the older 3V vehicles we have also seen a code pop up directly after initial installation and clearing of the codes. It is almost as if in those cases the codes lingered and were maybe triggered before clearing the codes but the trigger doesn't clear.. Then as soon as they are cleared again right after they stay off and there are no more issues with it. I have personally experienced this sort of delayed code while developing on my 05 GX470.

There are certainly a lot of factors but very glad it sounds like it is sorted. If anything pops up again please contact us directly.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Glad to hear that and it sounds like you have it now. There are certainly a couple of things going on to consider why.
First, going back and soldering the connections is the first thing we recommend. Soldering during the installation vs using the Scotchloks is highly recommended for this reason. Even though I thoroughly tested these particular connectors and couldn't see a difference between them and soldering, they do have room to not be perfect depending on the installer. These tiny differences matter a lot for some of the small signals we are dealing with. Properly soldering the connections is always the best options and your did a lot better job than many that we see. The solder should always look nice and wet/shiny, not balled up and wicked into the copper where it looks like it is a good wet coating on all the copper strands. That will yield the lowest resistance connections which is the important part.

The Gas cap should not have been a contributing factor. However, I have seen some people believe that the gas cap is what has caused their secondary air valve code(s) and even their catalyst inefficiency codes. I believe most of that to be coincidental at best but there still may be some aspect of it that contributed. I just don't think there is a direct correlation there but still within the realm of possibilities.

On the older 3V vehicles we have also seen a code pop up directly after initial installation and clearing of the codes. It is almost as if in those cases the codes lingered and were maybe triggered before clearing the codes but the trigger doesn't clear.. Then as soon as they are cleared again right after they stay off and there are no more issues with it. I have personally experienced this sort of delayed code while developing on my 05 GX470.

There are certainly a lot of factors but very glad it sounds like it is sorted. If anything pops up again please contact us directly.

Thanks @hewittech

I'll throw this out for any looking to install this. Don't do it right before an inspection is due.
Make sure your tank is less than 90% full per the FSM & and that outside air temps are between 40F to 95F.
These are the parameters for the ECM Evap System preconditions.

The FSM Vol. 1, pages ES-21 & ES-425 have the readiness for the Evap System which takes the longest to get ready.

 

[kpz1234]

@hewitttech

I went to install my kit today and (unfortunately, after opening) it looks like there is already one installed?

I have gotten code P2445 twice. What could be causing the code if the kit (if this is yours) is already installed? It is a purple wire in the pic.

ETA: don't know about the block off plates, the vehicle would need a foot more ground clearance and I would need a S-64 Skycrane.

 

[fro20fow]

Greaf info in this thread and Hewitt website. Looking for info on a couple things Referenced on the HeWitt site if anyone has some insight.

“Any Secondary Air Injection System component failure generally sets the check engine light (CEL) and causes the Engine Control Module (ECM) to store trouble codes.”

why might a SAIS component failure might not set the CEL? if there is vacuum noise @ cold start but no CEL, does that indicate system has not yet failed but likely on the way to failure?

“That said, to confidently recommend the best solution for your vehicle we need Year/Model/Engine Size along with the specific DTCs.”

it appears like it might be best to wait for a CEL before purchasing a bypass so can ensure no add ons are needed?

thanks for any info

 

[hewitttech]

@hewitttech

I went to install my kit today and (unfortunately, after opening) it looks like there is already one installed?
View attachment 2892706
I have gotten code P2445 twice. What could be causing the code if the kit (if this is yours) is already installed? It is a purple wire in the pic.

ETA: don't know about the block off plates, the vehicle would need a foot more ground clearance and I would need a S-64 Skycrane.

When is the p2445 code and check engine light coming on? At startup or while driving. Take a look at the p2445 explanation on our codes page and see if it might be the freezing temperature glitch that is explained there.
At startup you might not have the starter relay wire connected to the correct terminal and it isn't getting triggered correctly if you wait in the on position before starting.

 

[hewitttech]

Greaf info in this thread and Hewitt website. Looking for info on a couple things Referenced on the HeWitt site if anyone has some insight.

“Any Secondary Air Injection System component failure generally sets the check engine light (CEL) and causes the Engine Control Module (ECM) to store trouble codes.”

why might a SAIS component failure might not set the CEL? if there is vacuum noise @ cold start but no CEL, does that indicate system has not yet failed but likely on the way to failure?

The pump making the loud shop vac noise is usually the start of the failure on a 4.7l. Once that starts it usually progresses quickly to other codes but not always and can do it for a while.

“That said, to confidently recommend the best solution for your vehicle we need Year/Model/Engine Size along with the specific DTCs.”

it appears like it might be best to wait for a CEL before purchasing a bypass so can ensure no add ons are needed?

thanks for any info

If you have codes we like to know what they are. Some codes with our Gen1 units need extra addons. Our Gen 2 kits only have a pressure sensor addon.
If you are already experiencing the shop vac noise it is best not to wait.
If you wait you could get something like a p0418 code (bad air pump circuit) that would need a pump proxy pack for an additional cost than just say a V36H kit.

Please give us a call and we would be glad to discuss and answer any questions and recommend a kit.

 

[kpz1234]

When is the p2445 code and check engine light coming on? At startup or while driving. Take a look at the p2445 explanation on our codes page and see if it might be the freezing temperature glitch that is explained there.
At startup you might not have the starter relay wire connected to the correct terminal and it isn't getting triggered correctly if you wait in the on position before starting.

First time the CEL kicked on was after about 20 minutes of freeway driving. This took a Toyota dealership 3 days to diagnose, no kidding.
Second time was right after a start (car had been driven approx 3 hours earlier). I had a code reader with me and zapped it in the parking lot once I confirmed it was the same P2445 code. Several cold weather starts since then, no problem - we'll see as tomorrow and Friday are cold here.

I checked out the info. I guess it's something to live with, of course they would stop offering the reflash...

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Updating from previous posts - @hewitttech was great to deal with. I had some issues with my 3 valve unit on my 2007 LX470 throwing a few valve codes, so they promptly sent me another control unit, this 2nd one wouldn't inhibit the P2445 code. It would come back and I would have to continuously clear it.

I spoke with them at length and they told me were working on a solution and they would get one out to me as soon as they had a solution.

Well they sent me their latest iteration and I installed it today. The pending P2445 code immediately went away and all appears good with their product.

Anyone reading this, don't hesitate to do business with them. They stand by their product and found me a solution. Excellent communication with the owner here on Mud and his staff via the phone.

 

[packeted]

Hey folks, my wife took the '06 LX470 today and it threw a check engine light and went into limp mode. Managed to pull codes P1441 and P1444 with the Torque app and it looks like the SAIS could be the issue. I've been doing some reading and seems like the Hewitt bypass could be a good option but I'm unclear on whether the v1 version would allow the car to pass the smog test in California? It seems that the v1 would deal with the codes it threw.

 

[silver02accord]

Hey folks, my wife took the '06 LX470 today and it threw a check engine light and went into limp mode. Managed to pull codes P1441 and P1444 with the Torque app and it looks like the SAIS could be the issue. I've been doing some reading and seems like the Hewitt bypass could be a good option but I'm unclear on whether the v1 version would allow the car to pass the smog test in California? It seems that the v1 would deal with the codes it threw.

I'm in CA too and hoping this bypass would be sufficient from the sounds of it it seems to be as the system tests "ready" when you use the kit.

 

[Al Seattle]

Email Hewitt and ask them. Excellent service and great response times. If they say this solves your problem you will be be assured you are getting a product that works. I purchased their system and put it in in my 06 GX as a preventive measure.