6/'72 FJ55: stock drivetrain swap to '84 FJ60 drivetrain

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Your idea is utilitarian, costs less than mine, is smaller, requires less parts, keeps all oil sensor taps stock and to the same standard (i.e. not mixing NPT and BSP standards) over my 3 Land Cruisers... sounds like a better way to go. Thanks (again), Jim C.

FJ40Jim said:
Use a bottom fitting gage and screw directly into banjo bolt, w/ gage facing up.

Drill down into Mcmaster and there are several types available.
For example, a 1/8BSPT 0-100psi gage is $8.31
9804t523-c02c-p1l.png


http://www.mcmaster.com/#9804t51/=qgc5l5
Click to expand...
 
I decided that for the cost of the tap (1/8"-28 BSPT) and drill bit (5/16", 11/32", 21/64", 8.4mm were all called for in different Web pages) and the hassle of actually doing the tapping, I might as well just get a used pre-tapped bolt from SOR for $6.

So, this is ending out pretty simple: Just the stock tapped banjo bolt with a little 1/8"-28 BSPT threaded pressure gauge (a la Jim C.'s recommendation) poking out. I dab of thread sealant will go on those thread.
 
threadchaser said:
I decided that for the cost of the tap (1/8"-28 BSPT) and drill bit (5/16", 11/32", 21/64", 8.4mm were all called for in different Web pages) and the hassle of actually doing the tapping, I might as well just get a used pre-tapped bolt from SOR for $6. So, this is ending out pretty simple: Just the stock tapped banjo bolt with a little 1/8"-28 BSPT threaded pressure gauge (a la Jim C.'s recommendation) poking out. I dab of thread sealant will go on those thread.
Click to expand...

I love it when a plan comes together!

Sometimes a $6 bolt is a good deal...
 
$6 plus $20 in shipping & handling & fees.
The usual SOR service.

Edit:
Might as well get 2 of the bolts, so a direct gage can be screwed in one, and a sensor for in-dash oil temp goes in the other.
 
F valve cover modified for valve lashing

I learned about this idea when I had a Corvair. In the case of a flat-six engine, like the Corvair's, a cut valve cover is very helpful for containing oil while doing a running engine valve lashing.
http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,354190,354190

In the case of an inline-six, like with these Land Cruisers, this little (yet to be tested) project may turn out to be a waste of time but I do see some folks on the Web doing it for other inline-six engines.
http://www.inliners.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=43363#Post43363
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/best-way-adjusting-valves-sbc-132599.html#post923702

At the least it was a small project to start learning about working with sheet metal. For example, it would have been nice to know this procedure for spot weld removal before I started:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3Cw58U0I4Q

This is the valve cover off an F engine; it's just stamped sheet metal spot welded onto some ribs. It fits well where the greatly improved 2F valve cover (cast? aluminum) goes on the 2F. I needed to use the specialized nuts that hold down the 2F valve cover as the studs atop the 2F valve rocker assembly are shorter than those on the F. Only new parts are four 1/2" flat washers to spread the load a bit.

I'll edit this post later when I actually get to trying it out on a running engine. I hope I didn't cut out too much metal.

cut-f-valve-cover-1.webp


cut-f-valve-cover-2.webp


cut-f-valve-cover-13.webp


cut-f-valve-cover-4.webp
 
threadchaser said:
this little (yet to be tested) project may turn out to be a waste of time
Click to expand...


Agree. No point in adjusting a LandCruiser engine while running...
 
distributor breaker plate hold down screw removal

Got my first impact driver today. Nice tool! How did I get by without this for so long?

A dead F engine block makes a great vice for holding a distributor while removing the obstinate little screws the hold the breaker plate down in place.

Here's Figure 8-70 from the August 1980 2F Engine FSM. Sure looks like the distributor I have out of the 10/83 FJ60 and from digging in sor.com it seems like the distributor stayed the same from 8/80 to 8/87.

http://www.sor.com/catproducts.sor?from=022&part.number=022-01&tabpage=TAB3

impact-driver-in-distributor.webp


fsm-2f-engine-fig-8-70.webp
 
Late 2F distributor internals

Here is what things look like under the breaker plate.

Below the "10.5" marking is the governor pin. The pin's bushing has broken down. Black bits of the pin's bushing can be seen on the floor to the left of the pin.

I read that Jim C. uses brass tubing to replace the bushing (although the distributor will work work without a bushing seemingly). I'll see what I can find at the hardware store tomorrow.

distributor-under-breaker-plate.webp
 
2F distributor governor shaft

Breaker plate is all bound up, super gritty but looks to be easily overhauled with nothing more than a small screwdriver. Clean it up and Super Lube synthetic grease to its ball bearings.

Main governor shaft seems to be in great shape. The FSM seems to say don't disassemble it so I guess stop after lubing the governor weights and adding a new bushing to the governor pin.

fsm-on-governer-shaft.webp
 
FJ40Jim said:
They don't sling oil at idle.
Click to expand...

No, but if you're working on your rig in the driveway, which has a slight slope to the DS, the oil will spill down over your headers and ignite...don't ask me how I know.
 
Pighead said:
No, but if you're working on your rig in the driveway, which has a slight slope to the DS, the oil will spill down over your headers and ignite...don't ask me how I know.
Click to expand...

Sounds exciting! Pighead always knows the funnest way to fix things...
 
FJ40Jim said:
Be sure to test the vac canister for leakage.
New ones are NLA, so if it is bad...:meh:
Click to expand...

Both ports hold 600 mmHg of vacuum for over a minute.

Inner port moves "arm" about 4mm, outer one moves it about 1mm.

I am still not clear about which one I will want to use. Seems people are using only one and opinions differ as to which one. I am hopefully going to put something on the governor pin to replace the bushing which is shot. This truck will spend most of its time at sea level, occasionally spending some time at 3,000 ft. I am not even sure if that is relevant. I will revisit this once the engine is running.
 
Potential distributor governor pin bushing

The best thing I found at the local hardware store for a late 2F distributor governor pin bushing replace is this thing; in the first photo it is just siting close to the pin it might get installed on. I heard of Jim C. using brass tubing to replace the bushing. This is aluminum so not sure about that. I'll need to shorten it a bit but the grinding wheel should make quick work of that.

Does anyone know what the O.D. of the stock bushing was?

P.S. This came from the local Ace Hardware store.

governor-pin-bushing-1.webp


governor-pin-bushing-2.webp
 
Last edited:
Neat find on the bushing. I love finding stuff like that at the local hardware. Brass would wear better, but in a pinch alum will have to do.
Maybe try McMaster-Carr.
 
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