6/'72 FJ55: stock drivetrain swap to '84 FJ60 drivetrain

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Inside the water jacket

I poked a cheap borescope in through the engine block's draincock. Looks pretty good in there. More evidence that the PO took good care of this 2F.

Hard to see what's going on as this image was taken by holding my phone's camera lens up to the eyehole in the borescope.

The image is bit rotated off, by about 30 degrees. The green line from 3 o'clock to 7 o'clock is the anti-freeze still in the water jacket.

inside-water-jacket.webp
 
threadchaser said:
The plug is a soft metal; aluminum I think. It is about 7mm in diameter and 7mm long. Pictured is the plug on a what is seemingly called a #1 square fluted screw extractor. Before using the extractor I drilled the plug with a 1/8" cobalt bit. The bit wider recess in the gallery, which ends at the visible ring, within which the plug was, is very close to 5mm deep. The before picture is in post #46: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8792093&postcount=46
Click to expand...

Great picture!

So am I reading correctly that the cleanest way to pull this off might be to get me a 8mm x 1.25 tap and run that in until it hits the head bolt? That way it would be just right to accept one 8mm set screw w/ some red loctite?

And a little grease in the correct portion of the recess on the tap to catch those shavings?

Thanks!
 
PabloCruise said:
So am I reading correctly that the cleanest way to pull this off might be to get me a 8mm x 1.25 tap and run that in until it hits the head bolt? That way it would be just right to accept one 8mm set screw w/ some red loctite?

And a little grease in the correct portion of the recess on the tap to catch those shavings?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

If you tap until you hit the head bolt you would easy have room for two of the set screws I had which are 7 or 8mm long. Maybe there are longer set screws available. M8 x 1.25 set screws do not required drilling.

But, yes, that would work. Multiple people said that briefly running the engine after tapping but before putting the set screws in will flush out the chips. See post #172 for the quotes:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8968424&postcount=172

So, for a situation where the engine in installed in the truck and one doesn't want to take out the head bolt (i.e. a quick and easy fix) perhaps:

1. extract plug
2. put some assembly lube in the end of the hole by the head bolt to act as a chip catching plug.
3. tap hole with flutes of tap packed with grease as chip catcher. Replace grease a handful of times during tapping.
4. Run engine briefly until escaping oil flushes hole.
5. Clean up and install set screws(s) using red threadlocker (high temp red if you have it).
 
threadchaser said:
If you tap until you hit the head bolt you would easy have room for two of the set screws I had which are 7 or 8mm long. Maybe there are longer set screws available. M8 x 1.25 set screws do not required drilling.

But, yes, that would work. Multiple people said that briefly running the engine after tapping but before putting the set screws in will flush out the chips. See post #172 for the quotes:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8968424&postcount=172

So, for a situation where the engine in installed in the truck and one doesn't want to take out the head bolt (i.e. a quick and easy fix) perhaps:

1. extract plug
2. put some assembly lube in the end of the hole by the head bolt to act as a chip catching plug.
3. tap hole with flutes of tap packed with grease as chip catcher. Replace grease a handful of times during tapping.
4. Run engine briefly until escaping oil flushes hole.
5. Clean up and install set screws(s) using red threadlocker (high temp red if you have it).
Click to expand...

Gracias! Thanks man. I need to do this on my 40...
 
2F oil pressure sender unit

This OPSU came to me installed on the ?/84 2F out of an FJ60. It is threaded into the bracket onto which the oil filter sits. I think it's stock as it has a "teq" stamped on it. "12V" must indicated 12 volt model i.e. for BJ40's they are probably stamped "24V". I believe the small arrow on the stem is to indicate which way should be up. There is no arrow on the main shell, as is the case with the stock F OPSU I have.

With the engine sitting on my garage floor, this particular OPSU is not reading on my ohm meter connected from shell to center terminal. But given what little I understand of the internals, I think that is not a bad sign as the "points" should be open at zero oil pressure. From the following link in bj40green's excellent thread on the sensors and dash gauges, I think it can only be tested while the engine is running:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7274277&postcount=28

2f-opsu-13.webp


2f-opsu-1.webp


2f-opsu-2.webp
 
F oil pressure sender unit

This is the oil pressure sender unit (OPSU) that was on the F engine I took out of my 6/72 FJ55. In the third picture it's tough to see the "12V" stamped on the rightmost face of the step.

On the stems, the F OPSU is stamped "2-E" and 2F's "4-I"

On the bench, there is no ohm reading between the shell-and-stem and the center terminal on this F's OPSU.

The arrow head on the stem and the arrow on the main shell both point in the same direction. Seems the arrows should point up when installed:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=4728753&postcount=24

f-opsu-1.webp


f-opsu-2.webp


f-opsu-3.webp
 
SOR's aftermarket oil pressure sender unit

I bought this aftermarket OPSU from SOR a few years ago. In the second picture is it sitting next to the stock OPSU and it does not look as well made as the stock one. On the other hand the 2F OEM OPSU looks like its shell is just "crimped" on as well so maybe that is not a sign of lower quality.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=9035416&postcount=186

On the bench, this new OPSU is reading about 40 ohms from shell to center terminal. That seems weird; I would have expected an open circuit in there at 0 oil pressure.

I think from now on I'll be sticking to genuine Toyota for sensors and gaskets.

sor-am-f-opsu-1.webp


sor-am-f-opsu-2.webp
 
Last edited:
All of the gage OPSU's are interchangeable (unlike temp sensors). Only early ones are so inaccurate that they need oriented a certain direction to read correctly. New replacenents can be installed any orientation. The "arrow" visible on the brass hex is actually the Yazaki Vox corporate logo. The date code is also on the sender, 2E is 1972 May and 4I is 1984 Sept.
 
FJ40Jim said:
All of the gage OPSU's are interchangeable (unlike temp sensors). Only early ones are so inaccurate that they need oriented a certain direction to read correctly. New replacenents can be installed any orientation. The "arrow" visible on the brass hex is actually the Yazaki Vox corporate logo. The date code is also on the sender, 2E is 1972 May and 4I is 1984 Sept.
Click to expand...

Jim, what would the correct resistance value be when the engine is off, ie. no oil pressure?
 
Thanks for saying that about the interchangeability, Jim. I pretty much spent the weekend coming to that same conclusion but only as a guess as I couldn't find hard data on that.

The Yazaki Vox logo fooled me. I completely assumed that was an arrow. I guess that's why they call them ass-sump-tions.

BTW, there are no markings on the stem of the aftermarket OPSU from SOR. Actually, no marking on it anywhere.
 
PabloCruise said:
Jim, what would the correct resistance value be when the engine is off, ie. no oil pressure?
Click to expand...
There is no correct resistance value, as it is not a resistor. The FSM details the testing procedure using a 12VDC power supply and a test light.
 
ID of a dead F engine and maybe another life for the head

This dead F came out of a 6/72 FJ55. When I'm done with this project I'll have 3 Land Cruisers all with 2Fs in them. I killed this engine by taking it up to 75 mph on the maiden voyage after I tuned up the 32/36 Weber and unblocked that heat riser in the exhaust. On the way back home it ran extremely violently and didn't want to start again; I destroyed at least the main bearings. Perhaps I should have tried to bring it back to life but I'm committed to the ?/84 2F so question is mute.

But I wonder now if maybe the head if serviceable. Think I'll keep it and maybe put it on one of the 2Fs. Sounds like I should have a workable match.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/234379-early-f-head-2f.html

f-155.webp


f-399038-id.webp
 
without modifying the oiling system, the pre 74 F head won't play well with the 2F. now a 74 F head was oiled exactly the same as the 2F and that head can be used in place of a 2F head as long as the 2f is using domed pistons. with flat tops, the compression will be a bit low when using the 74 F head and very low when used with the earlier 2F head(early 2Fs used domed pistons and the CC for that head was larger than that of the later flat topped 2F heads) I believe that the casting number is 61051 on the F head that can be used on a 2F...74 was a magical transition year for TLCs; they introduced the new engine oiling and the coarse splined output low first gear 4 speed(H41) which mated to the one piece 3 speed Tcase...

awesome info on those senders BTW
 
Engine mounted oil pressure gauge plan

Thanks. Nice details on the F-head-on-2F-block issues.

While we are on the topic of oil pressure sensors, I think I'd like to have an under hood mechanical oil pressure gauge for sanity checking the stock dash electric oil pressure gauge.

I schemed up a very minimal design and was interested in hearing if anyone thinks it's completely bonkers, as I'm new to adding instrumentation to engines.

Basically, I just want to have a little 1-1/2" dial mechanical gauge sticking off the engine, literally on the engine, specifically right on an oil cooler banjo bolt head.

This plan started with Trollhole pointing out that the stock OPSU was at one time mounted on an oil cooler banjo bolt.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=6852665&postcount=12
The rear bolt has the hole in it in this picture.
imageaspxu200311485145dv.jpg


A Toyota parts doc ID'd the banjo as "15710A BOLT" but the picture used the same part number for both the holed and no-holed bolts (see attached diagram).

SOR has the bolts as:
055-11A Bolt W/O Hole Fits 1/76-8/92 W/O SENDR HOLE
055-11B Bolt W/Hole- Fits 1/76-10/82 W/SENDER HOLE
http://www.sor.com/catproducts.sor?from=055&part.number=055-11&tabpage=TAB1
SO, I guess the OPSU was mounted there from 1/76 to 10/82 only.

I'm assuming that the stock hole is threaded for the stock OPSU ie. 1/8"-28 BSPT.
Seems, though, that all the easily available stuff in USA these days is 1/8"-27 NPT threaded.
So, as Trollhole pointed out, why bother with a stock bolt plus a 1/8"-28 BSPT male to 1/8"-27 NPT female adaptor?
Cleaner to just tap an existing bolt with a 1/8"-27 NPT taper tap and proceed from there.

These are the two parts I am considering to build this out:
1. Medium-Pressure Brass Threaded Pipe Fitting, 1/8 Pipe Size, 45°Female x Male Elbow
McMaster-Carr #50785K81
(see attached screenshot below)

2. Performance Liquid Filled Oil Pressure Gauge 0-60psi "White" Dial
"This gauge has a 1 1/2 inch diameter face, with easy to read dial. It reads from 0-60psi and has a white dial with a red needle. Outside diameter is 1 3/4 inch. Its 1/8" NPT Center Back Connection makes it easily adaptable for different applications. Great for Custom Bikes! FEATURES: Liquid Filled, Stainless Steel case and bezel, Shock Proof, Vibration Resistant, Brass Internals, Acrylic Lens, 1/8" NPT Center Back Connection, White Dial"
http://www.jerzeecustoms.com/GaugesOilProducts.htm
I am thinking white because it would be easiest to read (see attached image below)

So, the plan is:
1. Tap an existing (rear I guess) no-hole oil cooler banjo bolt with, say, a Vermont American 20371 1/8-27 NPT High Carbon Steel Pipe Tap
http://www.drillspot.com/products/514863/vermont_american_20371_taper_pipe_tap

2. Install the 45 degree elbow, with some Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant on the threads
http://www.permatex.com/documents/TDS/automotive/59214.pdf

3. Install the gauge, again with some thread sealer.

A fancier set up might involve a 90 degree elbow tapped into the same banjo bolt and then tweak something like this motorcycle kit:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/5700002

This family of gauges come in 0-60psi and 1-100psi dials but I would think the 0-60psi gauge will cover anything I'd see with the hood up and it would give more accuracy at the low end.

Again, I have never done anything like this and am just making it up so any of this could be a disaster waiting to happen. Any thoughts out there?

oil-cooler-shema.webp


Standard White Dial Oil Pressure Gauge 001.webp


45-degree-elbow.webp
 
nope, you're good;)
 
Use a bottom fitting gage and screw directly into banjo bolt, w/ gage facing up.

Drill down into Mcmaster and there are several types available.
For example, a 1/8BSPT 0-100psi gage is $8.31
9804t523-c02c-p1l.png


http://www.mcmaster.com/#9804t51/=qgc5l5
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

W
1970 FJ55
Replies
11
Views
1K
RUSH55
RUSH55
DTC72
FJ55 Battery & Tray
Replies
10
Views
1K
DTC72
DTC72
ERNRAM
Replacement front windshield 1973 FJ55
Replies
4
Views
573
ERNRAM
ERNRAM
Dudleyfj40
FJ55 Header
Replies
11
Views
1K
Dudleyfj40
Dudleyfj40

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom