6/'72 FJ55: stock drivetrain swap to '84 FJ60 drivetrain (3 Viewers)

the 60/62 series rear axle perches are 2" wider on center than the 55s. there is plenty of room to inboard the perches on a 60/62 axle IF the sway bar is NOT used as it came from the factory. if the rear hangers were outboarded 1" on both sides of the frame, one could KEEP the 60/62 sway bar as is. as far as the diff to frame or spring perch clearance; there is plenty of it. if one were to opt to inboard the axle perches, nothing would need to be done to use the shelf kept perch on the passenger side, but the factory sway bar mount would need to go( would be VERY close to the spring if it stayed and didn't interfere- too close to call without fitment and articulation) HTH

Thanks, good to know.

Glovebox painted

This is my greatest work yet in auto painting. Which means I've still got a lot of room to grow.

Work stopage

I will be back on this project right after Thanksgiving.

I sighted this pig locally. Funny thing is the owner, he turns out to be a welder. A case of the cobbler's kids shoes I guess.

If you're in the USA, enjoy the holiday.

Water pump sub-assembly for 2F in early FJ55

Here's the new water pump and fan along with new-to-me used double-groove, deep-dish pulley. All 3 are from SOR. The fan looks misaligned in the photo but it spins evenly.

I do not have the spacer disk as shown in the following thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/278560-f135-4-blade-fan-upgrade.html

Anyone know if I'll need the spacer disk either for getting the fan away from the fan belt or for getting the fan further into the radiator's shroud?

I have the same Cruiser library!

threadchaser said:

Here's the new water pump and fan along with new-to-me used double-groove, deep-dish pulley. All 3 are from SOR. The fan looks misaligned in the photo but it spins evenly.

I do not have the spacer disk as shown in the following thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/278560-f135-4-blade-fan-upgrade.html

Anyone know if I'll need the spacer disk either for getting the fan away from the fan belt or for getting the fan further into the radiator's shroud?

Click to expand...

my set up uses NO spacer between the fan and pump flange/pulley...On a 2F, prolly not needed; an F may be a different story. I believe the water pump used on the engine in that other thread is a different depth...HTH

Satin Colonial Red paint in outdoor lighting

Pablo: great books, every one has something of value.

Lambcrusher: good point, that probably is a different pump

Here's a shot of the painted door in outdoor lighting. My paint job is nothing to be proud of but it's just about rust control and "blending in" until a real paint job happens. The color is not a a bad match and if I took off some of the dead oxidized paint maybe better (not gunna happen).

More details:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8930688&postcount=150

F and 2F water pump assemblies

Pictured are the old water pump assembly from the F engine and the new one going on the 2F. There is no spacer disk in this 2F assembly. Fan belt grooves on "new" pulley look like they will line up with groves on the crank's pulley.

Since the front motor mounts bolt on to seemingly the exact same points on the F and the 2F (i.e. positioning the back plane of the water pumps at the same location relative to the frame), it does not seem like I will need a spacer disk, matching Lambcrusher's comments.

F and 2F engine draincocks

Dirty situation is the dead F (first pic). The clean engine block is the replacement 2F (second pic). In both pictures the draincock has been removed. The draincock can be seen in the first picture.

The draincocks seem interchangeable between the F and the 2F. The draincock it a two part affair; a brass part (14mm socket) threads into a steel part (19mm socket) which threads into the engine block. There is a hole in the side of the steel part which can be easily missed upon casual inspection unless observed from below. The hole is installed to point down so the coolant drains through it. The steel part is 33mm long. There is a minimum of 30mm from the surface of the engine block to cylinder #6. So if you can't bury something at least 45mm in, there may be some undesirable buildup in there. Other threads here on MUD state that this is where build up gets bad in these water jackets.

This F's water jacket was so badly gunked up I had to drive a nail through it to get coolant to flow out. The build up is visible in the F's picture; that inner ring is just hard crud not part of the engine. Fortunately the 2F seems to have been well maintained. That and the fact that I saw the engine running before it was pulled is making me hopeful that this 2F is in good shape.

Drive shaft lengths for FJ55 and FJ60

For the record (which is the main intent behind these overly detailed notes) Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts has a way of measuring drive shafts, discussed at the end of this doc:
http://4xshaft.com/MeasuringGuide.pdf

According to that method (center of U-joint to center of U-joint) the fully compressed lengths (which does not include the yokes) of the stock rear driveshafts are:
6/72 FJ55: 108.6cm (42 3/4")
10/83 FJ60: 106.2cm (41 13/16")

More details are to be found in post #52 of this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8794734&postcount=52

and post #70:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8807810&postcount=70

Problematic oil gallery plug in 2F cylinder head

Pictured are the right rear corners of the cylinder heads of an F (155) and 2F engine.

First picture is the F; second is the 2F. The F does not have the problematic plug. The problematic plug can be seen on the 2F head, between spark plugs #5 and #6. This one has an X pattern embossed on it. A closer view can been seen in post #46 of this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8792093&postcount=46

I'm guessing the two bolt holes that bracket the problematic plug in the 2F are vestigial mount points for the ignition coil. In the dead F I have you can see where I moved the coil out of the way for photographing purposes; it is still attached by one of the bolts. In the 2F, the ignitor is mounted on the apron skirt wall.

Following are links to some relevant threads here on MUD:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/346362-oil-galley-plug-fixes.html#post5103955
Lots of links to MUD threads

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=4368789&postcount=23
"I just saw this, let me put my $.02 in, I use a 5/16" x 24 tap, no drilling required, then I install 2 allen head plugs one deep, and lock it in place with a second. Red loctite on both."

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=4368870&postcount=24
Trollhole: "I didn't use a F drill bit for the tap. I just was really carefull not to overstress my tap and went slow. But I figured if I did a writeup on it and didn't tell people to use a drill bit someone would snap a tap off in there and well we know what would happen. That would suck."

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=4898062&postcount=6
"Looks like with careful shard management, you can install an M6x1.5 or an M8x1.25 without drilling and head removal. Just need to be careful and keep the tap greased"

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=4899149&postcount=15
8x1.25 tap no need to drill and do it slow

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=4904157&postcount=22
"Going slow is key and cleaning your work quite a bit. If you get too much buildup from shards on the tap, it will tend to freeze or twist inside the wrench fitting. I tapped in about 5/8" + and installed the setscrew, which is inset about 1/16". CLEAN often and do use a magnetic tip screwdriver to pick up shards. I went overboard and spent about 1/2 hr, doing that, running the engine, let the oil spill out and put that screwdriver in there."

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=4906897&postcount=28
- 17/64 cobalt drill bit
- 8mm x 1.25 tap (I got a USA Irwin, use a high quality one)
- 8mm x 1.25 plug
- Red locktight

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=4370247&postcount=54
Mace: "If you drill the hole out, clean it up and start the motor for a short while. It won't hurrt the motor, and it will clean EVERYTHING out of the hole you just drilled"

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=1454268&postcount=21
"To capture the metal shavings, slather the entire tap in moly grease. It's much easier to control metal chips in a slow speed operation like tapping, as opposed to a high speed operation like drilling. Back out the tap often after each half turn or full turn. I purchased a short hex head cap screw in the plastic specialty harware drawers at Home Depot to plug the hole, with a little loctite of course."

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/113830-what-well-whatever-its-leaking-2.html
remove head bolt insert greased rag with a string to remove it.

Tapping jig

I ended out making a "jig" for tapping the problematic plug. This was my first time tapping. I screwed the pooch doing it freehand. Fortunately this worked. No drilling required.

I liked the Irwin tap socket better than the simpler t-handled tap wrench for this situation.

Nice work! Good to see you back on it.

How did you contain the metal shavings?

Problematic oil gallery plug in 2F cylinder head addressed

Thanks.

Tapping chips were contained by removing the cylinder head bolt and plugged the gallery hole from behind. My first attempted was to use engine assembly lube as a plug but that was a bit runny so not a good idea. Filling the flutes of the tap with grease and periodically removing and refreshing the grease and the captured chips was a good idea (screwbird's tip).

By leaving the cylinder head bolt in place while tapping, with a rag wrapped around it to catch any chips, that stopped the M8 x 1.25 plug tap at the perfect depth such that the taper on the plug tap head left original metal for the set screw to stop at and snug up against when installed later.

Since I messed up my first attempted I ended out tapping most all the hole to where the cylinder head bolt is and using 2 set screws. I got that idea from Texican, but I used M8 x 1.25 set screws. No drilling required for me.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=4368789&postcount=23

In the first picture, where my finger tip is on the machined surface to the head bold is 23mm. I guess when the engine is running oil comes up around the cylinder head bolt and passed though the oil gallery up to the rocker assembly. (In the pic the gallery goes away from the cylinder head bolt to the NE; oil flowing below that raised bit in the top of the cylinder head.

The set screws are about 8mm long. In the second picture, you can see at what depth the second set screw ended at. You can also see where I messed up tapping the first 7mm of what could have been good threads.

Threadlocker Red was used. I never knew Green and Purple existed as well. I'm stocking those now, as well as a can of their Surface Prep activator.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R84ZtE4yxvU

See post #172 above for more MUD notes on tapping this problematic oil gallery plug.

Problematic oil gallery plug extracted from 2F cylinder head

The plug is a soft metal; aluminum I think. It is about 7mm in diameter and 7mm long.

Pictured is the plug on a what is seemingly called a #1 square fluted screw extractor. Before using the extractor I drilled the plug with a 1/8" cobalt bit.

The bit wider recess in the gallery, which ends at the visible ring, within which the plug was, is very close to 5mm deep.

The before picture is in post #46:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8792093&postcount=46

Vinylove gloves

I'm sure the kids in the marketing department had a good laugh naming these. Nonetheless, at US$6 for a pair these are now my go-to gloves for non-precision work. Lesser gloves don't stand up to some harsh chemicals nor getting banged around (a mason I know uses these in Montana winters); heavier gloves lose too much dexterity.

Atlas Vinylove C660

2F stock distributor from mid-80's FJ60

Tag on outside of body, right below vacuum advance says "19100-61102" and below that "029100-6821"

I decided not to do a total overhaul because I'm not tooled up to deal with removing and replacing the peened pin on the cam drive gear. Replacing that with simply a roll pin didn't feel right; maybe I'll do that later if someone confirms that as good enough. Although I'd like to overhaul the ball bearings in there, the main shaft turns just fine at this time. Clean up around the sensor simply involved mechanical and a vacuum cleaner.

After removing the vacuum advance unit the sensor rotation ring was very, very gritty when turned by hand. I don't have a impact screw driver and the screws holding that ring down were not respecting my screw drivers. So, I ended up just spraying some Super Lube dry-film in between the rings and working things back and forth until it loosed up pretty good. I dabbed a bit of Super Lube synthetic grease at the point where the vacuum advancer arm attaches to the sensor's rings (yellow). It's not perfectly smooth but good enough for now.

I've got another one of these distributors as a spare. That one might get a total overhaul and this one will be the fallback in case something goes wrong. Purple thread locker was used on the vacuum advance mount screw. Moving on for now.

2F stock distributor related links

Pictured are Toyota parts I got from SOR.

Some MUDy links related to this distributor:

Coolerman: Retrofitting a FJ60 Large Cap Dizzy/Igniter:
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/5F.htm
Includes part numbers and procedure for installation with alignment details
late FJ60 (08/80 to 12/87) dizzy "it should also be re curved to match my engine"

Swapping a Toyota electronic distributor into an earlier model (Long Tech)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...distributor-into-earlier-model-long-tech.html
History of dizzy variants in F/2F; electrical wiring

Stock late 2F dizzy disassembled
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/50956-distributor-rebuild-questions.html

Post #12 has '80 vacuum hose wiring and sensor electrical wiring:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/578812-what-distributor-de-smogged-78-fj40.html

Good dizzy and coil chat on MUD 2008
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/233173-toyota-igniter-vs-aftermarket-2.html

Trollhole's $165 new, fully electronic, no ignitor dizzies:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/trollholes-cruisers/583790-electronic-f-2f-distributors.html

Well documented install of Trollhole dizzy
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/636243-electronic-distributor-trollhole-1974-fj40.html

Seems that knob is an "octane selector"
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8650630&postcount=8

Testing with tongue
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/567958-easiest-way-test-my-electronic-dizzy.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/51934-wiring-ignitor-distributor-77-fj40.html
FJ40Jim: You don't hafta worry abouyt depth with the 81-later dissy. The mounting ear is cast on the dissy. The disy must fully seat into the block, so the mounting ear is down on the deck. If there is a gap, then the dissy shaft is not lined up w/ the oil pump slot.

Wiring
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8099166&postcount=20

Ignition coil schematic and pictures:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/735856-real-time-help-needed-picture-ignition-coil.html

Jim C giving advice:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/582642-new-fj40-distributor-ident-help.html

Jim C likes the '81-'87 dizzy:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=4076798&postcount=4

Jim C and dizzy diag and stop pin bushing (esp. #7):
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/44637-distributor-rebuild-worth.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/213049-distributor-advice.html
Poser, 2008: If it were me, I would look for a late model (08/80 to 12/87) 2F distributor, igniter/coil assembly and engine side cover to install since you can still find these in good shape reasonably priced and they still have serviceable components.

Cruiserdrew: I totally agree with this. My 76 is running FJ60 ignition components and it really works nicely. The later large cap distributors have ball bearings to support the shaft instead of bushings and will last the life of the vehicle. One other advantage no one talks about....The pre-81 hold down clamp for the distributor is Mickey Mouse. On the later large cap distributor, it just uses a fat bolt to directly bolt the body of the distributor to the engine block. It's like 10,000 times better.

Pic of bolt for removal:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/527007-removing-distributor-87-2f.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7492414&postcount=9]
crumbo, 2012: drill out the pin on the cam gear dismantle and clean....lubricate the throw out weights and change the ball bearings replace cam gear pin with roll pin and all is good.

Drive gear removal
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/225500-dizzy-pin.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/285351-distributor-drive-gear-removal.html

NOT: door lock pin

Found this at the local parts store.

FAIL.

This is too wide to slip into the locked position.

And why bother when SOR has the real deal OEM ones for $4.
http://www.sor.com/catproducts.sor?from=128&part.number=128-50&tabpage=TAB2