Miller are good machines. Shielding gas not expensive. Send the Christmas list when complete
Thanks Bob.
6/'72 FJ55: stock drivetrain swap to '84 FJ60 drivetrain
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Miller are good machines. Shielding gas not expensive. Send the Christmas list when complete
Thanks Bob.
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Rust versus phosphoric acid
I have never reskinned a door (nor done much of any body work at all) but next time I think that option has to be a lot less work that what this required. The result is heavily pitted metal (only one pinhole though); reskinning would have given fresh steel and I could have addressed that crease. I'm just concerned with addressing rust at this time but that will require even more work to get it to look good under paint.
First I hit it with the wire wheel and such then many (probably 30 or so) rounds of Navel Jelly and wire brush. Phosphoric acid (Navel Jelly) did great work but on this large an area, on a vertical, and with it being relatively easily replaceable steel, well, this was probably not the right way to go.
I have never reskinned a door (nor done much of any body work at all) but next time I think that option has to be a lot less work that what this required. The result is heavily pitted metal (only one pinhole though); reskinning would have given fresh steel and I could have addressed that crease. I'm just concerned with addressing rust at this time but that will require even more work to get it to look good under paint.
First I hit it with the wire wheel and such then many (probably 30 or so) rounds of Navel Jelly and wire brush. Phosphoric acid (Navel Jelly) did great work but on this large an area, on a vertical, and with it being relatively easily replaceable steel, well, this was probably not the right way to go.
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- #124
Floor pan cleaned up
This is the floor pan after a couple of rounds of Navel Jelly. Pinholes are indicated by crosses and arrows.
Here's the before picture:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8823926&postcount=112
This was a lot less work than the doing the same with the door, because this is a horizontal surface I guess. For restoration purposes this probably was a waste of time. That whole area will need to be replaced. Merry Christmas to me.
This is the floor pan after a couple of rounds of Navel Jelly. Pinholes are indicated by crosses and arrows.
Here's the before picture:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8823926&postcount=112
This was a lot less work than the doing the same with the door, because this is a horizontal surface I guess. For restoration purposes this probably was a waste of time. That whole area will need to be replaced. Merry Christmas to me.
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- #125
Transmission cover clean up, underside
Naphtha did a good job again. This was more clean up work than where the same gasket was on the floor pan. It looked like there was a second adhesive on this side.
Novel take away for this thread: naphtha does nice work on the underbody coating as well, if that's something that needs to be addressed.
For now, I just want good gasket surfaces and I'm addressing rust if it's in my way, I want to take stock of the damage, or I just need to do an experiment to get first hand experience with some anti-rust tech. This phase sure is not about pretty.
So boring. It does look like the clean up phase ends tomorrow and I can get back to the fun part.
Naphtha did a good job again. This was more clean up work than where the same gasket was on the floor pan. It looked like there was a second adhesive on this side.
Novel take away for this thread: naphtha does nice work on the underbody coating as well, if that's something that needs to be addressed.
For now, I just want good gasket surfaces and I'm addressing rust if it's in my way, I want to take stock of the damage, or I just need to do an experiment to get first hand experience with some anti-rust tech. This phase sure is not about pretty.
So boring. It does look like the clean up phase ends tomorrow and I can get back to the fun part.
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- #126
Glovebox
Snagged this custom bit from a junkyard
Snagged this custom bit from a junkyard
paint it black...
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- #128
Right, because that way it will match the black duct tape that's serving as dash cover
Another round of painting starts tomorrow, I'll put this on the list.
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Right, because that way it will match the black duct tape that's serving as dash cover
Another round of painting starts tomorrow, I'll put this on the list.
no, I was listening to the 'Stones
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- #130
Right floor pan
Same exact rot as on the left side. Without checking closely it looks like there's rusty but "solid" sheet metal, but no it is actually what bobm calls the body mount and it's packed full of dirt and bits of rust. See the second picture for the replacement part:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7125578&postcount=1
You can see how it looks like rusted-but-sold metal but I wiggled an awl through the mud-rust pack to the bottom of the "bowl" to the metal of the body mount, about 1.5" deep. This seems like a design flaw, dunno.
After my experience with the left floor pan, I'm just going to leave this be for now. The floor pan will need to be replaced as well as the body mount which will be heavily scaled. As is, at least it will keep air from coming in while driving down the road. (I never thought this is what wisdom would feel like.)
Same exact rot as on the left side. Without checking closely it looks like there's rusty but "solid" sheet metal, but no it is actually what bobm calls the body mount and it's packed full of dirt and bits of rust. See the second picture for the replacement part:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7125578&postcount=1
You can see how it looks like rusted-but-sold metal but I wiggled an awl through the mud-rust pack to the bottom of the "bowl" to the metal of the body mount, about 1.5" deep. This seems like a design flaw, dunno.
After my experience with the left floor pan, I'm just going to leave this be for now. The floor pan will need to be replaced as well as the body mount which will be heavily scaled. As is, at least it will keep air from coming in while driving down the road. (I never thought this is what wisdom would feel like.)
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It doesn't stop with Pigs, though.
Wait a few more years and we'll be seeing similar on 80 floor pans, due to the sunroof drains clogging and pooling in the floor pans.
Water is the ultimate equalizer.
The more digging that goes into my 72, the more I appreciate the cohesive bond that rust exhibits, because it's all that has been holding it together.
Wait a few more years and we'll be seeing similar on 80 floor pans, due to the sunroof drains clogging and pooling in the floor pans.
Water is the ultimate equalizer.
The more digging that goes into my 72, the more I appreciate the cohesive bond that rust exhibits, because it's all that has been holding it together.
Chris, that's the reason I made changes to the factory mounts and floor supports and also the bracket on the back of the front fender patches. I increased the openings on all of these to prevent dirt and water building up inside. Rust will come no matter what but you can slow it down with various products and cleaning after 4 wheeling or during winters. Also keep in mind that these vehicles are Utilitarian they were thrown together without longevity in mind. Its amazing that there are still as many around and the dedication that this group is willing to give to the IRON PIG. Sorry long winded.
Thanks Bob.
Thanks Bob.
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- #133
Pork belly
"Functionally clean" underside of the body. This marks the end of the cleaning phase. Forty years of grime have been beaten back. It's not sparkling but it is clean enough to work on, and more importantly all the old grease stains are gone so that any new leaks can be detected early (I'm scarred from a dead pumpkin in my past).
This was done with just Simple Green and dish soap plus brushes and a garden hose. I don't have a power washer here. Once it's drivable I'll take it to the car wash and do the rear end quicker.
In the lower right of the picture, the dark area is the original paint where the muffler cooked the underbody coating away. It melted the rubber mat, too. You can see the canine modified headliner in the background.
Painting starts tomorrow.
"Functionally clean" underside of the body. This marks the end of the cleaning phase. Forty years of grime have been beaten back. It's not sparkling but it is clean enough to work on, and more importantly all the old grease stains are gone so that any new leaks can be detected early (I'm scarred from a dead pumpkin in my past).
This was done with just Simple Green and dish soap plus brushes and a garden hose. I don't have a power washer here. Once it's drivable I'll take it to the car wash and do the rear end quicker.
In the lower right of the picture, the dark area is the original paint where the muffler cooked the underbody coating away. It melted the rubber mat, too. You can see the canine modified headliner in the background.
Painting starts tomorrow.
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- #134
Rear belly
Here's the old message where the rear pumpkin was trying to tell me "HELP!" before it bled dry and, oh well. And worse, I didn't know enough to throw in a locker when I replaced it.
Now-a-days, I'm all about preventative seal replacement. A bunch of that is about to happen all over this vehicle.
Here's the old message where the rear pumpkin was trying to tell me "HELP!" before it bled dry and, oh well. And worse, I didn't know enough to throw in a locker when I replaced it.
Now-a-days, I'm all about preventative seal replacement. A bunch of that is about to happen all over this vehicle.
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- #135
PPG Omni epoxy primer
Next up in my painting learning: epoxy primer. This PPG Omni is PPG's budget line. After some research I decided that for right now this was the place to start in epoxy as a lot of folks think it is sufficient as a base for a quality paint job.
Next time I'll be playing with stuff from SPI as they get great reviews, seem to be addressing the DIY types, and have a strong community around their products. This PPG stuff I picked up instantly at the local Carquest and it's cheap enough.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/
As the product sheet says this is non-chrome. Seems chrome was used in auto paint for its anti-corrosive properties but there seem to be environmental concerns so it is being phased out. Amongst others, vwdarrin doesn't like the new non-chrome PPG epoxy and there are mixed opinion out there on the subject.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0IvRHfh4eA
Wow is paint another boring subject and the signal to noise ratio involved with learning is about the worst I've ever experience in a technical context. Oh, well, direct experimentation is one sure way to learn.
I have no paint gun here and this is all about the rust, not the look, so I will be doing what the boating folks seem to call rolling and tipping:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo
Next up in my painting learning: epoxy primer. This PPG Omni is PPG's budget line. After some research I decided that for right now this was the place to start in epoxy as a lot of folks think it is sufficient as a base for a quality paint job.
Next time I'll be playing with stuff from SPI as they get great reviews, seem to be addressing the DIY types, and have a strong community around their products. This PPG stuff I picked up instantly at the local Carquest and it's cheap enough.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/
As the product sheet says this is non-chrome. Seems chrome was used in auto paint for its anti-corrosive properties but there seem to be environmental concerns so it is being phased out. Amongst others, vwdarrin doesn't like the new non-chrome PPG epoxy and there are mixed opinion out there on the subject.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0IvRHfh4eA
Wow is paint another boring subject and the signal to noise ratio involved with learning is about the worst I've ever experience in a technical context. Oh, well, direct experimentation is one sure way to learn.
I have no paint gun here and this is all about the rust, not the look, so I will be doing what the boating folks seem to call rolling and tipping:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo
Threadchaser,
Just my opinion here, if you're getting into learning all this stuff, maybe just buy a cheap gun and learn how to spray. At some point you will want to spray the body and now's the time to learn.
I know, none of my business!
Just my opinion here, if you're getting into learning all this stuff, maybe just buy a cheap gun and learn how to spray. At some point you will want to spray the body and now's the time to learn.
I know, none of my business!
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Threadchaser,
Just my opinion here, if you're getting into learning all this stuff, maybe just buy a cheap gun and learn how to spray. At some point you will want to spray the body and now's the time to learn.
I know, none of my business!
No you're right on and any advice is welcome.
I'm currently 500 miles from my main base, at which I have started acquiring the whole painting setup. This is just the "what to do way out yonder with the engine out so painting access is good" solution.
Anyway, I've got 3 Land Cruisers (2 pigs and a 40) to paint so rolling and tipping will not scale. Most welding and painting will go on there not here; currently I'm just trying to resurrect this rig and pick everything off the donor FJ60 before having its carcass hauled off. Then I plan on going back to home with a pig full of FJ60 parts in order to complete the merge later with a better shop and tools on hand.
At this rate I will probably just install the rear FJ60 axle; that seems better than putting it in the cargo bay and I should have a parking brake for the ride home. But things like the front knuckles and brake booster (and on and on) will probably be cargo for the next big ride. This is taking way longer than I expected.
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- #138
Two SOR oil pan gaskets
Here's SOR's 034-150A-J ("J" for Japanese aftermarket) versus 034-150A-OEM ("OEM" for, well, OEM with a Toyota sticker on it). I am not religious about having only genuine Toyota parts, but in this case I am coming down on the side of the OEM one.
Of the two, the OEM one is lighter colored.
The OEM has thicker cork on the horizontal part.
There is much excess glue holding together the parts of the aftermarket one.
Not all bolt holes match up perfectly between the two.
At the bend where the gaskets transition from "straight" and horizontal to semi-circular and vertical, the corners are very different.
The OEM one does a crisp 90 degree turn, while the aftermarket one's corner is radiused.
The two also seem to have slightly different radii for the semi-circular parts.
The cost difference is only a few dollars so my uninformed opinion is it is not worth spending less in this case.
Here's SOR's 034-150A-J ("J" for Japanese aftermarket) versus 034-150A-OEM ("OEM" for, well, OEM with a Toyota sticker on it). I am not religious about having only genuine Toyota parts, but in this case I am coming down on the side of the OEM one.
Of the two, the OEM one is lighter colored.
The OEM has thicker cork on the horizontal part.
There is much excess glue holding together the parts of the aftermarket one.
Not all bolt holes match up perfectly between the two.
At the bend where the gaskets transition from "straight" and horizontal to semi-circular and vertical, the corners are very different.
The OEM one does a crisp 90 degree turn, while the aftermarket one's corner is radiused.
The two also seem to have slightly different radii for the semi-circular parts.
The cost difference is only a few dollars so my uninformed opinion is it is not worth spending less in this case.
OEM is usually mo betta than not...ESPECIALLY when referring to gaskets for some reason...
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- #140
Throw out bearings
On the left is what I found between the '84 FJ60's 2F and 4-speed. On the right is SOR's #018-18B aka FBJ's 90363 52001. They look pretty significantly different but I have no information indicating this the wrong replacement part.
On the left is what I found between the '84 FJ60's 2F and 4-speed. On the right is SOR's #018-18B aka FBJ's 90363 52001. They look pretty significantly different but I have no information indicating this the wrong replacement part.