Easiest way to test my electronic dizzy?

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Just wondering whats the easiest way to see if my electronic dizzy is working? I believe it came out of 1983 60 series. Its the large cap dizzy.

Thanks
 
Use an ohm meter, connect a lead to each wire from dizzy and spin the rotor shaft...

Every time the reluctor passes you should get a continuity reading......
 
Put it in an engine and see if it runs?
 
Easier way: Parts needed; battery,3 jumper test leads,ignitor, dizzy complete with cap, rotor & coil wire. Connect ignitor to dizzy, use jumper lead #1 to ignitor input to battery +, jumper lead #2 to batt negative to base of dizzy and jumper 3 to batt neg. to ignitor base... Insert the coil wire into your mouth and rotate dizzy shaft, if you get a good jolt you're good to go.........
 
Which plug or plugs are you referring to? I took ohm readings on one plug and had my wife turn the engine over. It read a constant 166. Wrong plug or... Also not a big fan of electrocuting myself either.
 
Only one plug... your ohm reading resistance is within spec... measure the air gap distance between signal rotor and pickup coil projection, should be .008"... is this thing clean inside or is there a rust build up issue?
 
It's clean. Are you saying measure between the two black pieces?
image-1474337973.webp
 
To access this better remove the black cover....

Also post a pic with cover removed......
IMAG0339.webp
 
Just eyeballing it good enough, if its out of spec there's nothing can be done because its not adjustable anyway.......

If its not working using the above methods of testing, time to replace...

I'd really like a look at the coil itself that's under the black cover, HCs may have taken its toll causing it not to work......
 
Here is a pic. Where should I measure?
image-2791869341.webp
 
In the picture above, those two combo philips head screws are loosened slightly and a flat screwdriver inserted into the slot at the end of the gold plate . By turning the screwdriver against those two tangs you can adjust the distance in the pickup coil to the reluctor . That distance directly affects the strength and timing of the coil's charge to the ignitor . This is the same basic electronic system used by Suzuki , Honda and even Chrysler's older engines . Dead stupid reliable and pretty accurate to boot.
Sarge
 
Sorry, but to answer you're question you measure the distance between the reluctor heads (round 6-point thing on the shaft) and the small metal piece in the center of the pickup coil .
As I said before, it should be done with a brass feeler guage . Most Jap trucks are .012" , you'll have to look it up in the 2F service manual for the specific spec .
Sarge
 
Thanks for the info. I actually measured it using grant5127 .008" and I did use a brass one or so I believe. I used the same shims I use for doing my valves. I measured it just as you see it. It was defintenly no where near where it should be. Just so I know what is "the small metal piece in the center of the pickup coil? Sorry but all this is way beyond my knowledge. Unfortuantly I leave for work tomorrow for about 2-3 weeks. If you get a chance check out my other thread "smoking battery cables" which has led me to this point.
 
The tan wire comes into an electromagnetic coil in the center of the pic . In the center of that coil, facing the reluctor on the distributor shaft is a metal tab . If you rotate the distributor very slowly you can actually feel the magnet being attracted to the reluctor ring on the shaft . The distance between the two is what you measure . If I had a spare disty here I could easily show you ....but I don't right now.
Sarge
 

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