6bt cummins NV4500 1996 LX450 swap (3 Viewers)

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I've had some diesel sitting in the tank for several weeks and today I cleaned the inside of the tank. I then deleted the in-tank fuel pump. I based the delete off post #457 of Builds - Dirty Koala Build - Cummins 6BT + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dirty-koala-build-cummins-6bt-nv4500-hf2av-swap.804271/page-23#post-10407526 Builds - Dirty Koala Build - Cummins 6BT + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dirty-koala-build-cummins-6bt-nv4500-hf2av-swap.804271/post-10407526

I used a brake line which fit nicely in the toyota tank filter. I notched the base of the brake line so it would bottom out in the filter while still having an opening for proper flow. I shoved an oil ring inside the filter to snug it up and added a zip tie (This build must contain a proper assortment of zip ties, duct tape and baling twine).

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Totally forgot about mentioning the power steering pump earlier. I had a new pump for a GMC LS (photo 1) sitting around and decided to mount it. The clearance between the steering box and pump was too close for comfort (photo 2). I found a dodge pump (photo 3) in the scrap pile and decided to pull the new pump out of the gmc housing and mount it in the dodge housing. Fit perfectly. The dodge housing definitely gave me more room around the steering box and improved the feng shui of the engine compartment. I’ll keep my eye on the pump and may still mount a reservoir near the battery and mount a smaller pump later on.

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I pressed in some Dobinson castor correction bushings into my radius arms to adjust their position. Unfortunately, I pressed out both sets of old bushings before starting to press the new bushings in (big mistake). To make sure I got my original position correct, I made some wooden jigs out of scrap 2x4’s that were the same size as the original bushings. That allowed me to realign the new bushings perfectly.

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My old Cummins was forgotten in the back of my shop for 4-5 years (it and my bio-diesel processor). When I pulled it out, I ran a check on the cylinders. I sent the injectors to be cleaned, filled the cylinders with diesel (for several days), ran a borescope inside the cylinders and checked the compression. All were kicking at least 400psi (I can't remember the specific psi reading). Here's how I pulled the injectors. I saw this on a video (maybe one of Jonesy's rebuild videos).

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Well well well, the bee stung the bull and started him to bucking..... I finally have some free time and jumped on the swap this afternoon trying to sort out my throttle cable. Since I'm running an NV4500, I don't need the dodge/cummins front linkage bracket and decided to delete it and create more space for my intercooler piping. I'm planning to use the stock toyota throttle cable. I looped it around the front of the motor and came straight into the rear p7100 throttle lever. This is my first mock-up. I'll probably set the bracket lower towards the bottom of the pump so it lines up better with the throttle lever. I also made a rough cable end-connector so I can hook up everything and test. After I better assess the performance, I'll probably cut the cable and soldier on a permanent cable end-piece.
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Currently I'm de-pinning my engine wiring harness. I identified the wire "W 3" on the harness and found that it's the water temp. sender. I've searched the manuals and can't determine what it's function is and if I should delete it or not. I'm being cautious in case it's part of the AC.

I'm stuck on W3 and would appreciate any guidance from someone with the knowledge.
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Over Christmas, I've tried to hop back on this build. My rear hatch spoiler is nowhere to be found. After seeing that they were discontinued by Toyota, I started shopping for one on www.car-parts.com and ebay. I decided not to allocate $350 to a used spoiler and elected to build one. A friend let me borrow his spoiler and mounts to replicate. I had my son 3D printed a sample and tested on the LX. It matches up nicely. We're going to add some finishing touches to the rough design and print some from heat resistant materials. Next I took some aluminum and made a replica of the spoiler. I watched some youtube videos on shaping metal and created the final shape on the English Wheel. I will be saving the patterns and files if anyone needs a spolier kit at a more reasonable price.
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We've been installing the trim and found some missing clip tabs. Luckily, my son was able to replicate the design and 3D print the tabs. I also patched some cracks in the dash pad with polyvance products and found a close match for the vinyl paint. I sealed the dash pad paint with a textured rocker guard paint.

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I filled in the gaps with the plastic filler rods and then sanded the area and applied the padded dash filler. I didn't spend enough time with my final sanding so there's a few lines left where I didn't blend the filler well enough. I was unconcerned about it because I have an escape gear dash protector (only $69) that will cover it up. When I painted it, I used a vinyl prep to soften the vinyl and then used vinyl paint. My final coat was a texture rock guard clear coat designed for rocker panel protection.


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Warning: For academic purposes only. I'm only showing the circuits I deleted on my build and is specific to my scope of work. Please do this at your own risk and double check everything before snipping. As the carpenter says, "measure twice, cut once".

I deleted the ECU, ABS ECU, Cruise Control and Auto Transmission modules and all controls/sensors on the engine. I will be using the EFI relay to run my radiator fans. Below is the wiring manual that I used along with my notes on what I retained and deleted. I'll also post photos of the FJZ80 vasectomy.


Wire color key pg 5
Fuel pump relay, abs relay pg 18
EFI relay >>>> cooling fan controls pg 18
ABS ECU, Crusie Control ECU, ECM pg 19
Electrical Wiring Routing pg 22-24, pg 30

I used the "find" function in microsoft edge to search all the connector codes of page 22-24, pg 30 and highlighted them in the document. Green = retained. Red = deleted

I will be editing this pdf this week and will upload a verision 2 this coming weekend with more info as I find all my notes

Lx450 wires deleted:
J 9 Junction Connector pg 54,55,62,69

D2 - Distributor pg 54

E1 - EGR Gas Temp. Sensor pg 61

I1 - Idle Air Control Valve pg 63

T1 - Throttle Position Sensor pg 62

H6 - H 6 Heated Oxygen Sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 2)pg 63

D 1 Data Link Connector 1 (Diagnosis) pg

M1 - Mass Air Flow pg 62

A3 - A/T Fluid Temp. Sensor pg 62

H5 - H 5 Heated Oxygen Sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1)pg 63

EZ1 - ENGINE WIRE AND VSV SUB WIRE (NEAR THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR)

I4 - I9 injector wires pg 60

K 1 Knock Sensor 1 pg 62

K 2 Knock Sensor 2pg 62

V 2 Vehicle Speed Sensor (Electronically Controlled transmission) pg130

E 2 Electronically Controlled Transmission Solenoid pg 130

EC2 - connector for V2 and E2 pg 31

E 3 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor pg 61

O 1 Oil Level Warning SW pg

C 3 Crankshaft Position Sensor pg

P 1 Park/Neutral Position SW


Wires to retain:

W 4 Water Temp. SW (A/C) pg 177 also show the ac clutch???????

W 3 Water Temp. Sender pg

V 1 Vehicle Speed Sensor (Combination Meter)

C 1 Center Diff. Lock Control Motor

C 2 Center Diff. Lock Indicator SW

Wires off P1 - starter , reverse

T 2 Transfer L4 Position SW

T 3 Transfer Neutral Position SW



Diagram of Engine Wire shown in the 1996 Landcruiser Electrical Wiring Diagram Manual.
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Photo showing Engine Wire before circuit deletes.

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Photo showing Engine Wire after circuit deletes.
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Photo showing circuits deleted from engine wire.

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