Or you can just track the temps with an obd2 reader and app.
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Called the dealer to get a quote on a transmission flush and they gave me the sealed unit we don't do it and don't recommend doing it speech. I was gonna do it at 60k. Is that too early? I thought I had read on here somewhere to not wait too long to do it the first time (100k+) or the new fluid with the worn in transmission would have issues or something like that. But I'm all hopped up on cold meds so i could be daydreaming. So far I'm completely stock other than tires and don't tow at all.
I've got the FSM and watched the video but I've got the 8speed and from what I thought I read earlier in this thread there are some slight differences between 6speed and 8speed procedures?
Called the dealer to get a quote on a transmission flush and they gave me the sealed unit we don't do it and don't recommend doing it speech. I was gonna do it at 60k. Is that too early? I thought I had read on here somewhere to not wait too long to do it the first time (100k+) or the new fluid with the worn in transmission would have issues or something like that. But I'm all hopped up on cold meds so i could be daydreaming. So far I'm completely stock other than tires and don't tow at all.
I've got the FSM and watched the video but I've got the 8speed and from what I thought I read earlier in this thread there are some slight differences between 6speed and 8speed procedures?
If you are doing a trans service its always recommended you change the filter as well. Plus it gives you a chance to inspect the pan and filter for contamination, wear, problems etc
Eh, why not. Doing my at 90k with everything else.
I don’t think there’s much reason to do the filter. It’s really a screen, not a filter, and if you go through the forum most people who have done it found it’s not dirty. Also there’s a decent risk of snapping the pan bolts off if you live in a salty climate (I know that doesn’t likely apply to you Voodoo2, but does to us USA folks who live in cold places where they dump salt all over the roads in winter)If you are doing a trans service its always recommended you change the filter as well. Plus it gives you a chance to inspect the pan and filter for contamination, wear, problems etc
I don’t think there’s much reason to do the filter. It’s really a screen, not a filter, and if you go through the forum most people who have done it found it’s not dirty. Also there’s a decent risk of snapping the pan bolts off if you live in a salty climate (I know that doesn’t likely apply to you Voodoo2, but does to us USA folks who live in cold places where they dump salt all over the roads in winter)
If you’re not towing, I’d agreeYep and 60k i think is premature.
If you’re not towing, I’d agree
I’ve heard of a few but it’s normally been a cracked valve body or solenoid failure or something similar. Don’t think I’ve seen any true torque converter or full transmission failures below 300k (though I’m sure it happens, and I know some dealers just default to “the transmission is bad” rather than trying to fix it).Yeah, my fluid was pretty bright, if you cook yours though, 50k def is a good target. Idk about the 8 spd I have, but I haven’t seen a single 6sp fail on MUD. Would be interesting to see. And on issue of Temp, even T dropped the trans cooler on the Tundra. And thats built to tow, with “lifetime“ fluid.
I talk mess about a lot of the 200 platform issues (there are plenty), but the transmission(s) are really reliable. Who builds those again? It’s a subsidiary right?
I assume the answer will not be what I hope but was curious if there is anyway to reset this ATF degradation monitoring interval without access to TechStream?
35015S seems to be the drain plug and it shows it under that plastic cover 35151F. Mine is a 2018. Just curious if anyone had any tibal knowledge of what extensions or wrenches it takes to get at the top 2 cover bolts as the drive shaft is blocking access to them quite a bit.The fill is a large flat headed on the driver side of the transmission. It’s got a head in the 24mm or larger range. I don’t remember exactly the size but I only had one set of combination wrenches that went up that large.
Ok I was able to do the procedure to get it to temp to verify the fluid level by NOT doing the thermostat paper clip thing.Quick random question, if I simply want to check my ATF fluid level, do I need to do the paper clip thermostat step to keep it open or can I just jump to the OBD jumping step?
I changed my fluid over the summer and now getting codes when it’s cold out so now paranoid I might not have overfilled it enough (trickle vs slow drip subjectivity)…
I followed the grt video from @NLScooby and all the great info& tips here successfully this summer to get that job done