Or you can just track the temps with an obd2 reader and app.
Complete Transmission Flush DIY - VIDEO (2 Viewers)
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LvCruiserNewb
SILVER Star
Called the dealer to get a quote on a transmission flush and they gave me the sealed unit we don't do it and don't recommend doing it speech. I was gonna do it at 60k. Is that too early? I thought I had read on here somewhere to not wait too long to do it the first time (100k+) or the new fluid with the worn in transmission would have issues or something like that. But I'm all hopped up on cold meds so i could be daydreaming. So far I'm completely stock other than tires and don't tow at all.
I've got the FSM and watched the video but I've got the 8speed and from what I thought I read earlier in this thread there are some slight differences between 6speed and 8speed procedures?
I've got the FSM and watched the video but I've got the 8speed and from what I thought I read earlier in this thread there are some slight differences between 6speed and 8speed procedures?
60k is perfect, and you dont need to drop the pan.
8 speed is slightly different due to electronic thermostat.
Also the pan and level dipstick design is different and IMO a bit unnacurate.
With my ambient temp or just how the thing behaved, my system pumped at startup.
The easiest method is by far the lower cooler inlet hose, pull that into a gradu container, then with a gravity feed system tied up at the hood, fill atf with a funnel tubed to the trans inlet. You can do it as you go.
Just put back what you measure precisely out. I failed the auto level drip tube fill capacity every way i tried it, and im not that dumb lol.
In the end, i did direct replacement it is smooth and responsive as factory.
If you are doing a trans service its always recommended you change the filter as well. Plus it gives you a chance to inspect the pan and filter for contamination, wear, problems etc
See the earlier Posts
Complete Transmission Flush DIY - VIDEO
About to do this today - what did you all use to jumper the pins on the OBD port to enter temperature check mode? Once jumpers shift from P to N then between D and N quickly for at least 6 seconds? It says the D light should illuminate for 2 seconds once in the correct mode and I assume Park...
forum.ih8mud.com
Eh, why not. Doing my at 90k with everything else.
You said " you dont need to drop the pan" but that makes it very hard to change a filter
I don’t think there’s much reason to do the filter. It’s really a screen, not a filter, and if you go through the forum most people who have done it found it’s not dirty. Also there’s a decent risk of snapping the pan bolts off if you live in a salty climate (I know that doesn’t likely apply to you Voodoo2, but does to us USA folks who live in cold places where they dump salt all over the roads in winter)
Yep and 60k i think is premature.
If you’re not towing, I’d agree
Yeah, my fluid was pretty bright, if you cook yours though, 50k def is a good target. Idk about the 8 spd I have, but I haven’t seen a single 6sp fail on MUD. Would be interesting to see. And on issue of Temp, even T dropped the trans cooler on the Tundra. And thats built to tow, with “lifetime“ fluid.
I talk mess about a lot of the 200 platform issues (there are plenty), but the transmission(s) are really reliable. Who builds those again? Its a subsidiary right?
I’ve heard of a few but it’s normally been a cracked valve body or solenoid failure or something similar. Don’t think I’ve seen any true torque converter or full transmission failures below 300k (though I’m sure it happens, and I know some dealers just default to “the transmission is bad” rather than trying to fix it).
The transmission I believe is Aisin and fwiw the 2013+ transfer cases are Borg Warner.
I assume the answer will not be what I hope but was curious if there is anyway to reset this ATF degradation monitoring interval without access to TechStream?
I did a full WS ATF fluid flush some months back and now that it’s cold I’m getting P0761 and P2714 codes. I am gonna hopefully get under the truck to check the ATF level (followed procedure for temp checking etc) and I figure it’d be good to also reset the interval since i didn’t reset when I flushed.
Not to muddy the waters but wanted to add some detail as I know the level is likely fine since I followed the procedure precisely, and since the codes didn’t appear during the warm months etc, but trying to double check the cheapest and closest options first as a diy-et…. Before investigating the valve body. I also will check for leaks while under there as I’ve noticed a burning oil smell, probably unrelated but (cam towr maybe) might as well double check there isn’t some small leak or something.
PS my rig is at 216k, and I try to do my own maintenance.
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LvCruiserNewb
SILVER Star
Ok next rookie question. I assume the fill plug is underneath this cover in the picture. How in the hell do I get the cover off. It seems like the drive shaft is preventing me from accessing some of the bolts. Or maybe I just don't possess the right combination of socket extensions or articulating wrenches.
The fill is a large flat headed on the us driver side of the transmission. It’s got a head in the larger range. I don’t remember exactly the size but I only had one set of combination wrenches that went up that large.
<edit remove size speculation for fill plug head size>
<edit remove size speculation for fill plug head size>
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LvCruiserNewb
SILVER Star
35015S seems to be the drain plug and it shows it under that plastic cover 35151F. Mine is a 2018. Just curious if anyone had any tibal knowledge of what extensions or wrenches it takes to get at the top 2 cover bolts as the drive shaft is blocking access to them quite a bit.
Ah, different tranny. I have a gen1 lx570. No cover either on mine.
Quick random question, if I simply want to check my ATF fluid level, do I need to do the paper clip thermostat step to keep it open or can I just jump to the OBD jumping step?
I changed my fluid over the summer and now getting codes when it’s cold out so now paranoid I might not have overfilled it enough (trickle vs slow drip subjectivity)…
I followed the grt video from @NLScooby and all the great info& tips here successfully this summer to get that job done
I changed my fluid over the summer and now getting codes when it’s cold out so now paranoid I might not have overfilled it enough (trickle vs slow drip subjectivity)…
I followed the grt video from @NLScooby and all the great info& tips here successfully this summer to get that job done
Ok I was able to do the procedure to get it to temp to verify the fluid level by NOT doing the thermostat paper clip thing.
Just jumped the obd 4&13 pins and did the magical shift knob procedure.
- power up engine with obd jumper in
- hold foot on brake
- shift from park to drive
- then shift gears from 1 to 6
- return back to park
- park to neutral
- quickly from neutral to drive back and forth 6 times then back to park
- drive should be illuminated even though in park
If it stays a solid D then you’re at temp until it blinks at which point it’s over temp. Keep engine running and do your fluid level checks and filling etc.
If it blinks D then too hot, turn off rig and wait until thinks cool down
Hope this helps someone! I did this procedure on a 2009 lx570
