Lspv optimal height (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter baldilocks
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Bambusiero
SILVER Star
Interesting discussion.
If you keep the LPSV rather than a full replace with manual knob adjust valve, then why not shorten the rod, something like Phil did, but make a screw thread vertical adjustment attachment to the frame? Then, you can experimentally adjust it for best balance, just like you can with the knob (not quite as quickly, of course).
For best braking performance and safety, it is definitely NOT best to have your rear end lock up under hard braking. You've just lost directional control.
Best is to have the rear braking maximum just barely short of lock-up, but still rolling. (which is exactly what anti-lock brakes are there to accomplish)
If you keep the LPSV rather than a full replace with manual knob adjust valve, then why not shorten the rod, something like Phil did, but make a screw thread vertical adjustment attachment to the frame? Then, you can experimentally adjust it for best balance, just like you can with the knob (not quite as quickly, of course).
For best braking performance and safety, it is definitely NOT best to have your rear end lock up under hard braking. You've just lost directional control.
Best is to have the rear braking maximum just barely short of lock-up, but still rolling. (which is exactly what anti-lock brakes are there to accomplish)
FWIW - I no longer have an LSPV and my ABS along with 20' of brake line have been removed. I ended up with the best brakes of any 80 I have driven. YMMV
Yup, that.
My rod is currently contacting the control arm and it does droop some with the axle as it’s still connected with the pumpkin.
One of these days, I may pull the LSPV, but braking still seems adequate for now.
If you feel your braking is adequate I would not touch anything.
Bambusiero
SILVER Star
Here's mine - adjustable fixed position, no longer Load Sensing at all.
Made from a couple of 1/4"-20 x 4" stainless fully threaded bolts and other bits & pieces.
Now I suppose I'll have to get that bleeder pressure gauge setup to adjust it to some specific front/back ratio.
Made from a couple of 1/4"-20 x 4" stainless fully threaded bolts and other bits & pieces.
Now I suppose I'll have to get that bleeder pressure gauge setup to adjust it to some specific front/back ratio.
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Bambusiero
SILVER Star
9 months down the road...
After installing the threaded rod adjustable fixed position mod to my LSPV(see above) - apparently, I proportioned way too much to the rear brakes - and wore them down to metal (on one side, a little pad left on the other) - so - rear rotors & pads replaced & made a tentative LSPV adjustment towards the front. Braking seemed fine - I couldn't feel any different for the lesser front end braking.
A second part of the story came in when I went out to break-in the new pads - I took the IR gun thermometer along for the ride so I could know how hot the rotors were getting...
And noticed a consistent +30 to 50 F hotter on the side that wore out(rear), while the fronts were very even - so - I suppose there is something hanging up the caliper action on the side that did not wear out - reducing its contribution (& wear rate).
The lesson here is that an IR thermometer is a pretty good tool for checking up on your brake performance - for even proportion - side to side, front to back.
After installing the threaded rod adjustable fixed position mod to my LSPV(see above) - apparently, I proportioned way too much to the rear brakes - and wore them down to metal (on one side, a little pad left on the other) - so - rear rotors & pads replaced & made a tentative LSPV adjustment towards the front. Braking seemed fine - I couldn't feel any different for the lesser front end braking.
A second part of the story came in when I went out to break-in the new pads - I took the IR gun thermometer along for the ride so I could know how hot the rotors were getting...
And noticed a consistent +30 to 50 F hotter on the side that wore out(rear), while the fronts were very even - so - I suppose there is something hanging up the caliper action on the side that did not wear out - reducing its contribution (& wear rate).
The lesson here is that an IR thermometer is a pretty good tool for checking up on your brake performance - for even proportion - side to side, front to back.
I cut mine off from the axle and move the rod all the way up even on my 91 with drum brakes and added weight and i can also lock up all 4 tires!
Phil do you think it's worth the extra effort to build in some adjustability? Wondering if you are still running yours in that fixed position (all the way up).
Post #43, looks like he removed the LSPV all together.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
DITCH IT. Stop fn with the LSPV and throw it in the trash!!!
Optimal height for mine ended up being the bottom of the garbage can. 
it was just stupid crusty anyway.
it was just stupid crusty anyway.
I removed my LSPV and all ABS. With that said, for my set up no adjustability is needed or wanted
What does it take to bypass the LSPV? Already trashed the vintage ABS system
It takes an effort to hit the search button... dat simple.
Imagine those who spent the time posting the info. in the past on this topic only to find out ppl are incapable or unable to extract those info....luckily we have a forum to help with that...Born a leader I see
Helpful kind of guy. Aren’t ya!
I have no sympathy for lazy ppl
I am trying to be helpful, but again, you either want to be help or you rather be Spoon-feed...
