Lspv optimal height (1 Viewer)

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baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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Today I did a few test runs where I mashed the brake pedal at the same speed at the same exact spot. I have a 5" lift and what seemed to be best was dropping the Lspv to the middle of the adjustment range. At his point I was able to make all 4 tires screech and skip in abs mode and the stopping distance was best. Not better by by a lot but better by like 20 feet.
What says you?
 
If you must keep your LSPV this is the correct adjustment for best braking performance.

LSPV.JPG
 
I've researched this a lot and most people who have actually tried it say that no proportioning (either by removing the LSPV or by fixing the arm in the upright position like LandCruiserPhil) results in really great brake balance and better overall performance. I was hoping to try it this week, so I'll report back if I do. I think these trucks bias too much towards the front anyway... throw in a lift and it's just too much tinkering to get it right.

Like 95% of the vehicles on the road have no load sensing function built into the system and they work just fine. :eek:

my $.02
 
What's the better option, disabling it or replacing it with a manual unit? If I don't have to spend $ to get great brakes, I'm for that
 
I think I'll try LandCruiserPhill Set up...:cool:
 
What's the better option, disabling it or replacing it with a manual unit? If I don't have to spend $ to get great brakes, I'm for that

IMO, and again, I haven't tried this yet, best practice would be to remove the LSPV and replace with a brake line tee (there are write-ups on how to do this if you search). Those who have put in a manual proportioning valve seem to leave it in the "all the way open" position anyway, so a tee would accomplish the same thing at a reduced cost. IMO, removing the LSPV completely eliminates the potential for failure (not that I've ever heard of the LSPV failing). The big benefit of the LandCruiserPhil method is that you don't have to take anything apart or bleed the brakes if you've done recent brake work and know your fluid is good.
 
IMO, and again, I haven't tried this yet, best practice would be to remove the LSPV and replace with a brake line tee (there are write-ups on how to do this if you search). Those who have put in a manual proportioning valve seem to leave it in the "all the way open" position anyway, so a tee would accomplish the same thing at a reduced cost. IMO, removing the LSPV completely eliminates the potential for failure (not that I've ever heard of the LSPV failing). The big benefit of the LandCruiserPhil method is that you don't have to take anything apart or bleed the brakes if you've done recent brake work and know your fluid is good.


FWIW Im part time and my LSPV set up was meant to be temporary:rolleyes: (clean and EZ fix) until I removed my complete ABS system.
 
Check this thread out for the OP toward the bottom of his post.
Some kind of hack to improve braking. Still trying to figure out how and why that works better.

Fzj 80, the romanian approach


I studied the system and saw a strange stuff about it. The circuit for the front end of the truck has a T piece just under the master cylinder that gives pressure to the ABS unit for the front end, and the other exit goes all the way to the LSPV for no reason, to my understanding. I got myself two M10 brake bleeders, took the pipe that goes from the T piece to the LSPV out and blocked the exit with the bleeder, and did the same on the LSPV. The result was unbelievable! I had a truck that was now stopping just like a normal one!


Is there some boost going to the LSPV? Is this what he meant by "gives pressure"?
 
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If you must keep your LSPV this is the correct adjustment for best braking performance.

View attachment 1288440
So your lspv arm is all the way up now? And this would be full open? ABS removal is not difficult and I have considered it a lot but always think about legal ramifications in the event of an accident.
 
If you must keep your LSPV this is the correct adjustment for best braking performance.

View attachment 1288440


Looking at your picture and reading Bear's post I am having a hard time to understand what he means.
There is one line in, and two lines out. Correct?

If he blocked one of them off, would it be the line-in one? Then would the rear wheels still be able to brake? How? Is there a separate circuit?
 
So your lspv arm is all the way up now? And this would be full open? ABS removal is not difficult and I have considered it a lot but always think about legal ramifications in the event of an accident.

Yes, My LSPV is doing no proportioning at all. I have had all the parts to remove my ABS for about a year, its just not high on the list.
As for legal ramifications Im not worried because now I can stop:D
 
have you check if your rear pads are wearing down more than the front pads .?

Recently I did a full bearing and brake/rotor service and the wear was about the same. Also I only use all OEM 80 parts and no 100 pads.
 
Last time I checked my fronts were 50% worn or more and rears looked brand new... all installed at the same time. I really need to do this :eek:
 
I did my LSPV " adjustments " in order to match front and rear braking performance and it seems to be like I did well according to how my pad wear .. but this just keep me thinking if I just could squeeze little better braking performance out of them ..
 
I did my LSPV " adjustments " in order to match front and rear braking performance and it seems to be like I did well according to how my pad wear .. but this just keep me thinking if I just could squeeze little better braking performance out of them ..

For our trucks removing or bypassing of the LSVP will give you better braking without question. My rig is part time without ABS and at speed with brakes locked (yes brakes locked with 35's;)) my truck slides straight for the most part. Trucks weight is ~6500lbs and very close to equal front to rear. The balance could contribute in achieving the braking results above.:meh:
 
Hey Phil, is that the full up position? I have a 3 inch lift on my 97 and have been fighting ( like everyone) with brakes, full up and give the rod a bend?
 

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