Not sure how accurate 95-97 land cruisers not having the 2 plugs is. Mines a 06/94 and it has both plugs. Unless they’re for something completely different. Seems to fit both passenger and drivers side
97' FZJ80 heated seat install with Toyota horizontal low/high switches (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jwilliams
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- 1997 heated seats
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i'm working on installing that dorman kit, tied into oem harness... any chance you can share how you wired them up? I am struggling with how to tie the two elements together.
Also, Has anyone run into issues on the drivers side? I don't seem to have the blue-orange wire but instead have a red-blue with silver dashes in the position I was expecting blue-orange.
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Does this help?
big time thank you, even answered my question about the red-blue wire
muchas gracias!
No problem. Initially I 'rewired' then on how I thought they should go because the way it is didn't make any sense to me. When I did that it backfed voltage through the switch on low and both lights lit up and then on high it would just pop the fuse instantly since it was wired straight to ground essentially.big time thank you, even answered my question about the red-blue wire
do you know if the he heating elements have a polarity?
Trying to work out if there is an orientation of the elements on your drawing (in terms of + or -)
I don't know that. Looking at the schematic doesn't appear so. I would maybe do a Texas twist on the wires and hook it up not installed completely and test it. If you blow some fuses or let the smoke out, you know it before your seat is all back together.
I bought some of the vertical switches a long time ago from cruiserparts.net and I finally tackled this job. But there were still some unanswered questions that weren't really addressed on this thread (at least not according to my feeble brain), so I was hoping to shed a little bit of light on the things that confused me.
First, according to this (http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/seat-heater-electrical-diagram-pdf.460604), the seat heaters are connected in parallel when the switch is HI (each sees the full 12V), and in series when the switch is LO (each sees only 6V). There are two extra connections to be made to the under-seat connector, in addition to the ground. When switched to HI, the pins are connected to:
1 GND
2 +12V
When switched to LO, the pins are are:
1 +12V
2 Open Circuit
So you can wire the aftermarket heaters to be in parallel/series like:
In HI, the voltage at pin 2 reaches both heaters and they are both independently grounded. In LO, the voltage travels through the top heater, then the bottom, then to GND.
Also, I wanted to put new pins in the connector on the seat, and I searched for exactly what kind of pins they are (and a part number). Using this (https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/connectors-pdf.915794/), I found that the pins are of the 2.3II type (since the pin is 2.3mm across), and that you can buy one from Toyota using part number 82998-12330. But they're quite expensive and include a pigtail. I just wanted the pin itself, and I found this (Amazon.com: Automotive Connectors 090Ii Non Sld Tab(Sq 0.3-0.5): Automotive) if you want 5 or this (Amazon.com: Automotive Connectors 090II NON SLD TAB(SQ 0.3-0.5) (50 pieces): Automotive) if you want 50 of them. The 2.3II pin is the same as a 090II pin (they're also .090 inches across).
I hope that helps!
In your schematic, any chance you know what position in the plug pins 1 and 2 correspond to?
Answering my own question:
In @ZRotheohv schematic:
GND = Toyota Pin 3
1 = Toyota Pin 4
2 = Toyota Pin 5
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Not sure if I'm reading your question right, but I plugged in my switch, and using a test light on each individual seat connector pin watched for the light to illuminate when switching the switch to high/ low/ off.
So, I had a tough time following any instructions i've found for this in terms of specifically what and where to wire everything. So, with help from everyone posting on this thread and some investigating with the multimeter, I believe I have this sorted out and would like to add some definitive details for anyone else looking to do this. Some notes and then the good stuff:
Here is the wiring you need to do for this to work, TOYOTA labelled pins. Not arbitrary callouts.
Here is a the pinout diagram for the plug that is in the seat (the only one you need to touch and the only one you care about):
- I used the Doorman 628-040 Heating Element kit. I did not use any of the relays, switches, or plugs they provided, just the elements. Each kit comes with 2 elements (enough for one seat). I used toyota factory vertical switches.
- If you pop a fuse while doing this for whatever reason, it's a 20A and it's the seat heater circuit.
- The Toyota plugs all have a part number for the plug itself and pin numbers for each of the pin locations, they are tiny but I promise they are there. Grab a flash light and a magnifying glass and look closely.
- Your heating elements have no polarity, but my diagram shows - (black) and + (red) as it helps keep track of things, but if you mix up the wiring it doesn't matter.
Here is the wiring you need to do for this to work, TOYOTA labelled pins. Not arbitrary callouts.
Here is a the pinout diagram for the plug that is in the seat (the only one you need to touch and the only one you care about):
Here's a shot of how I got the elements mounted. Bit tough to get them oriented with the metal rods but, this seems to work. We'll see how long they last like this.
@Somebodyelse5 did you buy male terminals for the empty pin postions from the dealer, or somewhere else? i found some dead links to non-toyota parts on Amazon but can't find anything similar. i see butt connectors in that pic but i'm assuming you cut those off?
To terminate the wires in the plug I did buy male terminals. I got them here:
- Yazaki | 090IIU-PIN - Corsa Technic | 090II Unsealed Series Pin Contact
Motorsport electrical products: OEM and hard to find terminals and connector kits, wiring, harness supplies, tooling, and sensors for modern and vintage motorcycle, automotive applications. Easy online shopping, low cost shipping options, to expedited around the world. We accept Paypal and...
Part Number: 090IIU-PIN2
Pin/Wire size: .5-1.25 mm² | 20-16 AWG
I used the barrel connectors you see in the picture so that I could connect them in different ways while I was testing with the multimeter.
Thanks @Somebodyelse5!
I installed new leather and cushions a few months ago (with the help of MUD forums) and happened to put the same Dorman heater elements in while I was at it. I just needed to wire it.
I took Somebodyelse5’s directions to a local car electrician and he said that he wasn’t 100% sure if doing it this way provided “modulation” and that he couldn’t risk messing up something with my cruiser. He would only finish the install with the Dorman kit switches. He did say if it was his car he would try Somebodyelse5’s way because he understands using the OEM switches is important and the wiring looked correct.
So I have zero banana skills and I successfully completed this mod today, and SEEMS to be working. Seats took a few minutes to heat up, but they are working as intended.
For the zero banana people out there like me that have never done wiring before, here are a few tips I learned today:
I installed new leather and cushions a few months ago (with the help of MUD forums) and happened to put the same Dorman heater elements in while I was at it. I just needed to wire it.
I took Somebodyelse5’s directions to a local car electrician and he said that he wasn’t 100% sure if doing it this way provided “modulation” and that he couldn’t risk messing up something with my cruiser. He would only finish the install with the Dorman kit switches. He did say if it was his car he would try Somebodyelse5’s way because he understands using the OEM switches is important and the wiring looked correct.
So I have zero banana skills and I successfully completed this mod today, and SEEMS to be working. Seats took a few minutes to heat up, but they are working as intended.
For the zero banana people out there like me that have never done wiring before, here are a few tips I learned today:
- Buy quality electrical tape ($5) and a bunch of crimps at Home Depot to connect the wires. You’ll need a wire stripper too, I had a basic one.
- When you strip the wire, make sure you are not damaging the wire part. I kept doing this and had to recut the wire shorter to redo it.
- I ordered one OEM terminal pin/wire (82998-12330) from the stealership and the aftermarket pin contacts mentioned by Somebodyelse5. The pins came quick less than a week and were a perfect match. However, doing it again I would have just bought 4 OEM pins because it’s already connected to a wire and that’s 4 less times I can mess up. About $5 a piece is an ok price to pay to avoid the opportunity to mess things up, I think.
- The stock Dorman kit comes with fuses in line. I cut those out of the kit and added them in one of the connections for each seat. I‘ve heard there is already a fuse in the rear heater circuit, and I don’t know if this really helped, but I felt better about adding them in this way.
- Be very carful tapping into the wire coming out from pin 3. You don’t have much room for error. I used this method to tap into that wire.
- Because soldering seemed hard, I used the crimping method for all the other connections. Then wrapped each connection with electrical tape.
- I cleaned up the wires with the tape and zip ties.
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Glad you got it sorted out! It's rewarding to get a project done, especially when it heats your butt
Next time, if you grab yourself some heat shrink tubing to cover the connections instead of electrical tape you'll be pro level
Has anyone been able to find the circuit in the electrical wiring diagrams anywhere? I’ve got a 1996 ewd for a US spec 80 series and I can’t find them anywhere. Looking to build this whole circuit from scratch using relays and having a diagram for the different colored wires would be very helpful. I don’t have the harness in my truck because it’s going into a fj60. Using the vertical heater switches.
Is it just high and low 12v+ from the elements and a 12v and ground for each light bulb in the switch?
Is it just high and low 12v+ from the elements and a 12v and ground for each light bulb in the switch?
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I have “factory” heated seats in my 97 Canadian spec LX, but my understanding was that they were shipped from the factory without and that once landed in Canada they were “dealer” installed. I would agree with that statement as when I had to pull my entire dash apart way back when, the wiring was not at all factory looking. I’ll check my EWD just to see though.
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That’s interesting. Checked the LX450 EWD manual, and there is no mention anywhere of heated seats although they do mention the Canadian spec DRL circuit. A pic for the seat related circuits/parts.
