1st problem with the 80.. transmission issue on cold start.. Stealership update (1 Viewer)

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Peachtree City, Ga
Hey guys trying to trouble shoot a recent issue with my 97. This past week on cold mornings after being started and put into gear or reverse, the drivetrain seems to lack power while the engine will go to about 2000-2200rpms for a few seconds before gently bumping into gear. Currently at the Toyota dealer getting a fluid and filter change, they want to let the vehicle cool for an hour and try to replicate the issue. Anyone have any clue of what’s going on? It drives perfect during the rest of the day, even after the truck sits for a few hours. Thanks for any suggestions guys
 
Sounds like what would typically happen when the fluid level becomes low or the filter gets clogged or, for some reason, the fluid stored inside the torque converter is draining back into the pan while sitting for a few hours and then taking a minute to refill once the pump is rotating.

Just wait to see if your first course of action takes care of it then move on to step two if the problem persists.
 
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I had a similar issue when I had a loose trans cooler line. The fluid level got low enough that it would occasiaonally slip and rev until I refilled the fluid.
 
Great guys I appreciate the input! Hopefully changing the filter and refilling the fluid will fix the issue. I will have hem look at the trans cooler see if it has loosened. I will keep you all updated
 
So here’s a layout of my day at Pitts Toyota of Dublin..

- Arrive at 8:07am for my 8:30am appointment
- They want the truck to cool off and hopefully replicate the issue so I agree and the service advisor parks it
- I wait until 1:17pm which they finally decide my vehicle is cool enough to drive around, tech proceeds to test drive after I’ve described the issue
- He comes back driving the truck into the service bay.. not on a lift or anything, just parks it
- Finally get called from the waiting room around 2pm and they’ve come to the conclusion that my transmission is on its way out (mind you guy can’t even get the issue to “flare” up as he calls it.. I watch him start her up and pull out onto the street, vehicle drives like normal).
- Gather a quote of $4,000 for a reman transmission.. I ask if they could just do the fluid and filter replacement for the tranny and they say the risk of that would be the transmission taking a s*** on me before it even leaves the bay.
- I laugh and respectfully pay $58 for the half hour the service tech looked over my LX. They wish me good luck (with an attitude because they know I’m not having the bull****) and I drive off, once again vehicle driving normal like it always does.

Not mentioned before but I drove almost 4 hours on the highway, normal shifting and power, to this dealer as I’m visiting family friends in my current location. Issue hasn’t happened since 6am when I left. I’m at a loss of what to do
 
The filter is not a replaced unit. You remove it, clean it and reinstall it. It's made of metal mesh.

Thank you for the clarification Beno, service advisor said it had a replacement filter..didn’t know it was metal. Would you recommend having the fluid changed and filter cleaned? Service tech said it could also be the valve body that needs replacing. I’m just upset because the original issue couldn’t be replicated but they want to sell me a transmission off the rip.
 
Your service technician is talking out his ass. He has not done the necessary diagnosis to make any determination beyond that your truck has a transmission that makes it go forward and backward.

The A343F manual has an entire diagnosis tree that the technician should follow in getting to the route cause of the issue.

He wants to throw parts at it at a detriment to your billfold.
 
I would do the transmission fluid exchange (there’s a write up on this forum) if not perfectly red then add one or two qts of Lucas transmission fix into the system. I had a very similar issue with a Dodge Pickup added 1 qt every year or two of Lucas then sold the truck 5 years later with original transmission with 360k miles.
 
Just drain the pan, drop the pan, inspect the filter, which is probably clean, install the pan, fill with fluid, and drive it for a day and then drain the pan again and refill the pan again. Repeat this three times and call the fluid good.

If you find that the fluid is burnt looking and /or smelling, do this until the fluid looks and smells like brand new fluid. I suggest this approach because disconnecting old tranny cooler hoses to flush the system out into a bucket will present its own set of problems. Or, use this as an opportunity to replace the old hoses.

You might want to do some searching for a case where someone fixed the same problem with a new solenoid(s). I say this because you reported very a short term history of the issue.
 
Your service technician is talking out his ass. He has not done the necessary diagnosis to make any determination beyond that your truck has a transmission that makes it go forward and backward.

The A343F manual has an entire diagnosis tree that the technician should follow in getting to the route cause of the issue.

He wants to throw parts at it at a detriment to your billfold.

I appreciate the help Beno! I’ve googled a diagnosis chart for this transmission, not finding anything related to my issue but maybe I can try another dealer and speak to someone who might be a bit more helpful. Do you have a link you can share by chance?

I would do the transmission fluid exchange (there’s a write up on this forum) if not perfectly red then add one or two qts of Lucas transmission fix into the system. I had a very similar issue with a Dodge Pickup added 1 qt every year or two of Lucas then sold the truck 5 years later with original transmission with 360k miles.

Sounds good, I’m going to go through another dealer and have them change the fluid and clean the filter.. I need to get myself a garage and good set of tools to dive into this. Hopefully this solves the issue. Fluid reads full on the dip stick, I’ll ask for a sample of the fluid to check color. It’s been driving normal all day. I’ll keep you guys updated
 
Uhhh...did anyone even check the level of the transmission fluid? That would be the very first thing to do.

Confirm fluid level, one would hope the tech would have, but... Warmed to running temp, motor idling, pull the stick, is the level correctish? Doesn't take any tools. Next, is the "kick down" cable properly adjusted? First confirm it's not broken, pull on it, should spring back, if it pulls out, it's broken. Toyota says to adjust it so the crimp is just out of the boot, I go until the nut touches the boot, looks like this. Requires a 14mm wrench.
cables-jpg.386324
 
i live in dublin... ask for sam at the parts counter and only him. he will probably tell you to call me lol
 
Confirm fluid level, one would hope the tech would have, but... Warmed to running temp, motor idling, pull the stick, is the level correctish? Doesn't take any tools. Next, is the "kick down" cable properly adjusted? First confirm it's not broken, pull on it, should spring back, if it pulls out, it's broken. Toyota says to adjust it so the crimp is just out of the boot, I go until the nut touches the boot, looks like this. Requires a 14mm wrench.
cables-jpg.386324

Tools I will check this first thing in the morning! Honestly don’t thing the tech really checked the truck out. Will get pics and readings tomorrow for you

i live in dublin... ask for sam at the parts counter and only him. he will probably tell you to call me lol

Cool man I’m stayin here tonight and tomorrow. Care to pm me your name/number and I can give you a call tomorrow morning? I’d like to get a second opinion from you
 
@Tools R Us looks like the cable you pointed out is missing.. I’ll be meeting with slow97 so maybe he has one I can put on there. Fluid level checked after a short drive, fluid appears to be dark and reads on the dipstick in the middle of cool so I’m low. The dealer didn’t want to replace the fluid yesterday because they said it could cause the issue to get worse. I’ll see what Chris thinks later once I meet with him
7EC3237C-6946-48AB-AC69-67929F316705.jpeg

C78E3096-C6B6-4AA8-B264-31943AFA74B3.jpeg
 
Did you check the yellow handled dipstick or the orange/red one ? I'm not doudting your abilities that just looks like dark engine oil compared to any atf I've ever seen. I mean it could be burnt atf too.
 
Did you check the yellow handled dipstick or the orange/red one ? I'm not doudting your abilities that just looks like dark engine oil compared to any atf I've ever seen. I mean it could be burnt atf too.
Yeah, if that is the ATF, I would say it looks terrible. I would for sure do the fluid exchange if that is the way the ATF looks.

I would run 5 gallons of something cheap like this stuff through and see how it works then.

Farm Rated Multi-Purpose AT Fluid by Farm Rated at Mills Fleet Farm
 
Just scanned this thread.... do we know the ATF fluid level is correct yet? If this were me i'd grab a 5 gallon bucket, some clear hose, 5 jugs of Valvoline Maxlife ATF and start with the fluid exchange procedure.

Let us know how it goes....
 
@Tools R Us looks like the cable you pointed out is missing.. I’ll be meeting with slow97 so maybe he has one I can put on there. Fluid level checked after a short drive, fluid appears to be dark and reads on the dipstick in the middle of cool so I’m low. The dealer didn’t want to replace the fluid yesterday because they said it could cause the issue to get worse. I’ll see what Chris thinks later once I meet with him

On the A343 that cable runs the progressive pressure regulator, without it the line pressure is going to be way low. Not saying it's all of your problem, but strong possibility. The FSM calls for removing the valve body to replace, I would attempt to avoid that, takes some fiddling, but has been done without. Will need to remove the trans pan, so need a tube of RTV sealer, like Permatex Gray and about a gallon of ATF. While in there could turn up the main pressure, makes all of the shifts firmer.

Improving Transmission Shifting
 

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