New to the site with an 80 series LC, it cranks, but does not start. Having fun chasing the issue. (1 Viewer)

[raijinbu]

Happy to join the site, just got my first LC. I have had a few 4runners and one GX470 in the past. This is my project 93 LC with a possible electrical issue. It cranks, but it does not start. The check engine does not show when cranking. I am still in the process of investigation. Have changed EFI relay, fusible link, jumped the TE1 and E1 just in case. When jumping the OBD, the check engine light does not show, not any other light blinked. The distributor cap and cables appear new, but I am thinking of replacing those and the spark plugs as well this week. Also plan to replace the big three. I have not tried starter fluid in the air intake yet as I have not researched it further. If all fails, I will continue with the fuel pump. If anyone has any suggestions, I would appreciate it greatly, thanks.

 

[suzuguru]

Well, the first thing I would check, is to see if you are getting any spark at the plugs. If not, start going upstream looking for the problem. If you are, then move on to fuel, and then air.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

Welcome to the obsession!!

This may help your current issue: Emergency Troubleshooting Procedures - FAQ Item (Recommend Keeping Copy in Truck) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/emergency-troubleshooting-procedures-faq-item-recommend-keeping-copy-in-truck.115816/

 

[BILT4ME]

Did you or a previous owner (PO) remove the two screws on the wiring harness on the AFM on the intake filter and yank on the harness?

If so, that could be the $500 issue.

Please continue to properly diagnose. Don't just shoot the parts cannon at it.

 

[Rmautodiagnostics]

80 Series Engine Turns, but doesn't start up - MY 1994

Hi Everyone, I'm hoping there is some sort of checklist that's out there to what should be checked to ensure nothing is missed. So as the title says, the engine turns but doesn't start up. No check engine lights are on. The one odd thing is that the stereo no longer turns on (stock stereo)...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[LandLocked93]

Happy to join the site, just got my first LC.... It cranks, but it does not start. The check engine does not show when cranking.

Does the CEL show when inserting key and rotating to 'ON'? And frankly it should display until the truck is running.
If not, start there and figure out why not. Nothing else will help.

Have changed EFI relay, fusible link, jumped the TE1 and E1 just in case.

"...jumped TE1 and E1 just in case"... what does this mean?
What codes flash when you do that jump?

When jumping the OBD, the check engine light does not show, not any other light blinked. The distributor cap and cables appear new, but I am thinking of replacing those and the spark plugs as well this week.

Don't bother.

Also plan to replace the big three. I have not tried starter fluid in the air intake yet as I have not researched it further. If all fails, I will continue with the fuel pump.

Big three? Yeah I might be old but cannot recall what those '3' might be.
I'm familiar with Land Rover's "3 Amigos"... but to what are you referring?
Forget the fuel pump.

If anyone has any suggestions, I would appreciate it greatly, thanks.

T-shoot the CEL not on with key in 'ON' position. Noting else will work with that out of commission.
Is the CEL bulb in the cluster burned out? Possible option.
And really, when did this whole thing start?
Did you purchase the truck in this condition or did it happen afterwards?

 

[REKCUT]

Main focus as stated above is the no Check engine light. That is either a burned out bulb or you're not connected to the ECU. Fuel pump, spark, none of that matters until you get CEL back. Being it's a project truck and I can't tell by your statement if it ever ran, you could always have had a P.0. take the check engine bulb out because they go sick of looking at it.

 

[raijinbu]

Well, the first thing I would check, is to see if you are getting any spark at the plugs. If not, start going upstream looking for the problem. If you are, then move on to fuel, and then air.

Thank you! I plan to continue my chase when the rain stops, it's been raining for 3 days now.

 

[raijinbu]

Does the CEL show when inserting key and rotating to 'ON'? And frankly it should display until the truck is running.
If not, start there and figure out why not. Nothing else will help.

"...jumped TE1 and E1 just in case"... what does this mean?
What codes flash when you do that jump?

Don't bother.

Big three? Yeah I might be old but cannot recall what those '3' might be.
I'm familiar with Land Rover's "3 Amigos"... but to what are you referring?
Forget the fuel pump.

T-shoot the CEL not on with key in 'ON' position. Noting else will work with that out of commission.
Is the CEL bulb in the cluster burned out? Possible option.
And really, when did this whole thing start?
Did you purchase the truck in this condition or did it happen afterwards?

CEL does not show when rotating the key or cranking.
Jumping TE1 and E1 showed no codes
The big three are the ground wire from battery to frame, ground wire from engine to frame, and the power wire from alternator to battery.
I plan to check power for the CEL bulb, etc. when the rain stops, been raining for 3 days.
I bought the car in this state, guy pretty much gave it away.

 

[raijinbu]

Main focus as stated above is the no Check engine light. That is either a burned out bulb or you're not connected to the ECU. Fuel pump, spark, none of that matters until you get CEL back. Being it's a project truck and I can't tell by your statement if it ever ran, you could always have had a P.0. take the check engine bulb out because they go sick of looking

Thanks for the tips, I will add them to my checklist. I purchased the truck as a project truck in this state and towed it home. I could not pass on the deal.

 

[raijinbu]

Did you or a previous owner (PO) remove the two screws on the wiring harness on the AFM on the intake filter and yank on the harness?

If so, that could be the $500 issue.

Please continue to properly diagnose. Don't just shoot the parts cannon at it.

I will check on the two screws as soon as I can, thanks.

 

[Pericles]

Assuming the CEL bulb is in the cluster and not burned out, check that you are getting power at the ECM. The "how to" was recently answered in another post. Also, if it's a '93 with the older ECM then it could have gone bad. But first check that you're getting juice to the ECM before you go shelling out cash.

 

[Rmautodiagnostics]

Main focus as stated above is the no Check engine light. That is either a burned out bulb or you're not connected to the ECU. Fuel pump, spark, none of that matters until you get CEL back. Being it's a project truck and I can't tell by your statement if it ever ran, you could always have had a P.0. take the check engine bulb out because they go sick of looking at it.

Thats not actually true. What it actually means is the ECU is not in a "ready state".

That can be caused by multiple things, faulty ECU, problems supplying power or grounds to the ECU, sensor failure, ignition switch failure, problems with the check control circuit or bulb, its not just one or the other. You can be connected to the ECU just fine and have this symptom appear. This is specifically why there is a trouble shooting section of the repair manual.

My advice is don't just start touching things, especially the screws holding the connector into the air flow meter. Download the repair manual, there are sections on the EFI system and diagnosing components for auto or manual vehicles at the ECU connectors. It allows you to check circuits, different sensors, power to and from the ecu, grounds, even the check control light without guessing. Biggest plus is if you check voltages at the ECU it confirms the wiring is good too. If the values don't match, it gives you resistance values for sensors/components to check at the part with it unplugged. Can use it to verify if the component is actually faulty or if the problem exists in the wiring between it and the ECU.

The thread I linked you earlier has a ton of recommended diagnostic steps in it as the OP is dealing with the same symptoms you are.

 

[raijinbu]

Thats not actually true. What it actually means is the ECU is not in a "ready state".

That can be caused by multiple things, faulty ECU, problems supplying power or grounds to the ECU, sensor failure, ignition switch failure, problems with the check control circuit or bulb, its not just one or the other. You can be connected to the ECU just fine and have this symptom appear. This is specifically why there is a trouble shooting section of the repair manual.

My advice is don't just start touching things, especially the screws holding the connector into the air flow meter. Download the repair manual, there are sections on the EFI system and diagnosing components for auto or manual vehicles at the ECU connectors. It allows you to check circuits, different sensors, power to and from the ecu, grounds, even the check control light without guessing. Biggest plus is if you check voltages at the ECU it confirms the wiring is good too. If the values don't match, it gives you resistance values for sensors/components to check at the part with it unplugged. Can use it to verify if the component is actually faulty or if the problem exists in the wiring between it and the ECU.

The thread I linked you earlier has a ton of recommended diagnostic steps in it as the OP is dealing with the same symptoms you are.

Thanks for the info!

 

[raijinbu]

I was finally able to remove the dash and check the back of the instrument panel. I was suprised to see that there were two light bulbs missing, one of these being the check engine light. I grabbed two other working light bulb and plugged them in the ones missing. Turned the key, but still no check engine light. Second test, I borrowed the ECU from my friend's working 94 LC and plugged it into mine. No ECU either. I am waiting to replace my multimeter tomorrow to check if the ECU is getting power. Else, I will have to continue the investigation.

 

[raijinbu]

I will check on the two screws as soon as I can, thanks.

I was finally able to remove the dash and check the back of the instrument panel. I was suprised to see that there were two light bulbs missing, one of these being the check engine light. I grabbed two other working light bulb and plugged them in the ones missing. Turned the key, but still no check engine light. Second test, I borrowed the ECU from my friend's working 94 LC and plugged it into mine. No ECU either. I am waiting to replace my multimeter tomorrow to check if the ECU is getting power. Else, I will have to continue the investigation.

Digging a bit more, I found that the ECU is receiving power. I flipped the fuse box to check the wires and found a black wire connected to under the ECU Main relay. I followed it into the cabin and appears to be a kill switch. I am going to disconnect this cable from the ECU Main on Saturday and re-test.

 

[Kernal]

Has anyone mentioned checking or replacing the fusible link bundle yet??

 

[raijinbu]

Has anyone mentioned checking or replacing the fusible link bundle yet??

I discarded it because it looks in good condition. However, I just read that it could be burnt and look good. Going to order some. Thank you.

 

[jonheld]

I discarded it because it looks in good condition. However, I just read that it could be burnt and look good. Going to order some. Thank you.

You're going to want to read through this thread.

ECU power

I am trying to see if I am getting power to my ECU and I can't find the past post to the page in my FSM that shows which terminal on the harness going into the ECU is power. Much time spent trying to refine pic I though I saved but if you don't label the search exactly the same you don't get the...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[JohnnyFish]

Does it have an alarm system? I had a crank-but-no-start on my '96 until I got in there and removed the aftermarket alarm.