A442F Transmission issue (1 Viewer)

[AtinLango]

I am usually on the 100-series forum because I have a LC 100 Amazon 2002 Diesel Automatic Transmission.

From the plate inside the engine bay, it indicates that the the transmission is type A442F.

I recently had a transmission problem. The car refused to reverse on a normal day. I struggled to reverse, and later managed to do so and then I parked. After some hours, I started the car and drove off, but after about 1 kilometer, the car failed to climb hill. Long story short - it was then a struggle for over six hours until we towed the car home.

For starters, the mechanic removed the transmission and replaced some clutch plates and filter. The car started driving, but would not shift gears properly, to near point of failure. They opened transmission again and replaced remaining clutches. Same problem.

We even removed valve body and cleaned it thoroughly. Still same problem, but with one new observation. Shifting from gear one to two now causes a very mild jerk. We have left the car in this state. I can drive one to two kms around just to warm the car, but it has all those problems. Besides, it might likely fail to move at any point if I continue to drive far away from home.

All the times we have removed and put back transmission, we would first drain all the oil (including inside torque converter). Then at reinstall, we would do a complete fill of about 12 liters, which reads okay according to dipstick reading. I believe I know quite well the process of reading the dipstick.

Meanwhile, I have read everywhere that a dry fill of A442F transmission is 15 liters, but I also need to confirm from those who have practically done dry fills.

I have so far got very good contributions from the 100-series forum, but my problem remains unresolved. Someone suggested that I try the 80-series forum because my LC 100 is using the A442F transmission (according to the data plate on engine bay) like the 80-series .

One of my unanswered questions is: what is the number of liters of transmission oil for a dry fill of the A442F transmission? By adding 12 liters of AT Fluid, are we adding too little, and possibly causing us problems?

I would also appreciate any suggestions for resolving the problem. I pray that a transmission replacement would be the very last option.

Thank you for your time.

 

[AtinLango]

I have just done the diagnostics by connecting E1 and TT terminals of the data link connector according to the document "Automatic Transmission - Troubleshooting".

The light pattern is 1 sec throughout, meaning the DTC is normal.

Can this provide any pointers on where I should focus my investigation?

 

[Squash]

Does she move if you put the transfer case into low?

 

[AtinLango]

Does she move if you put the transfer case into low?

Ever since the last transmission drop and re-install, I had not tried to change transfer case. But Ihave just tried now inside my home garage. In L, it is moving fine both forward and Reverse. I may have to try in a large area once I get the car out of the garage.

 

[Squash]

Ok,
Check the front drive flanges, one is probably stripped. Your outer axle is spinning, making grinding noises. Remove the front dust caps.
Now have someone drive with the Tranfer Case in high while you watch both sides or mark the ends with crayon if you are alone.

Ever since the last transmission drop and re-install, I had not tried to change transfer case. But Ihave just tried now inside my home garage. In L, it is moving fine both forward and Reverse. I may have to try in a large area once I get the car out of the garage.

 

[AtinLango]

Ok,
Check the front drive flanges, one is probably stripped. You outer axle is spinning, making grinding noises. Remove the front dust caps.
Now have someone drive with the Tranfer Case in high or mark the ends with crayon if you are alone.

Thanks for the prompt reply. Being a non-mechanic, some of those things (like drive flanges) are completely alien to me, but I have a young boy who is a fast-growing mechanic. He will help me to try those out once I get hold of him, probably tomorrow.

In the meantime, it appears the transfer case cannot shift with engine running. It is making a terrible grinding noise. With engine off, it is shifting properly. What could this mean?

 

[Squash]

Make sure that the transmission is Neutral.
If shifting from low I give things a moment to stop spinning before shifting.
Do a search for Drive flange.
There are two different lengths depending on the year of your truck. Also two different CV's to match.
Doesn't matter which set you use, just try getting a matching set. If possible get the newer parts.

 

[AtinLango]

Also of note is the fact that about two weeks before the transmission failure, a certain cracking noise started to happen in the right front area (not far from the tyre), especially when I braked while turning steering. Some mechanic said it was the right ball joint, so he replaced it. But that did not solve the cracking noise problem.

Could this be ralated to the drive flanges?

 

[AtinLango]

Make sure that the transmission is Neutral.

Yes, I do so with transmission in N, but I was surprised that it was resisting to change until I switched off engine.

Do a search for Drive flange.

Will do, thanks.

 

[Squash]

Pictures of front

 

[CJF]

Does she move if you put the transfer case into low?

Well done.

 

[AtinLango]

Yes, she moves in Transfer Case at Low. Even in High, it moves, only that the gears change erratically.

 

[AtinLango]

One of my unanswered questions is: what is the number of liters of transmission oil for a dry fill of the A442F transmission? By adding 12 liters of AT Fluid, are we adding too little, and possibly causing us problems?

Anyone with an answer to this tough question?

 

[AtinLango]

Some update: Three days ago, I disconnected both batteries (the car has two batteries). I reconnected today morning, abou12 hours ago. This may or may not be important.

About five hours ago (when I tried to drive Forwad and Reverse inside my garage), I was pleasantly surprised that the Transfer case was able to fix itself and shift to L (which had failed since the last transmission removal. However, this is only possible when engine is off (which is also another worry altogether).

Just now, I have tried to drive in the compound in Transfer case both L and H - it responds very well in both Forward and Reverse.

These observations are likely too far from the bitter truth of reality. When I find time and drive out of the compound where gears should shift, the truth will come out.

I just wanted to share these developments in case they may trigger some thoughts. Otherwise, I may be able to drive out of the compound tomorrow.

 

[Squash]

Hmm!
I would still check the front before taking off.

 

[AtinLango]

Hmm!
I would still check the front before taking off.

Certainly!

I informed the boy to help me about it. I will likely drive to his workshop, about 1 km away, tomorrow or whenever i can. He will help me check since i have no clue about those things.

 

[AtinLango]

I am still waiting to check the drive flanges.

As I wait, I would appreciate some clarity on the possible effect of a bad drive flange on transmission. In my case, the car actually can drive even to high speed, but gear shifting is erratic.

Occasionally, though, it may refuse to move completely (especially in reverse). You accelerate, but only the rev goes up while the car is static. This can happen anytime and anywhere, but the car will eventually move with reasonable persistence.

 

[AtinLango]

I just got someone to check the drive flange. He assured me that there is no problem with the flange. Well, his procedure looked so complicated to me, but I just had to accept the verdict.

Now, as mentioned before, we had earlier removed and cleaned the valve body, but even that did not solve the problem. Let's assume that the valve body is bad, which means we can try and put another valve body.

But also we could as well try and first test the solenoids in the valve body. May be they are bad. At the moment, it is easier to remove the valve body, test the solenoids (and replace them if they are bad, or try to replace a complete valve body if solenoids are good).

But my immediate question is: how do we test the solenoids? I would appreciate a step-by-step procedure for testing the solenoids so that I can do it with the help of someone here.

 

[Squash]

Honestly the drive flanges take about as fast as you can walk from one side of the truck to the other. Simplest procedure ever. I'd worry if your mechanic made this complicated.
You are going to have to try the Search function. Magnifying Glass.
Also: Year, model, engine and even VIN to help you.
For parts visit Partsouq.

 

[AtinLango]

I have just done the diagnostics by connecting E1 and TT terminals of the data link connector according to the document "Automatic Transmission - Troubleshooting".

The light pattern is 1 sec throughout, meaning the DTC is normal.

Can this provide any pointers on where I should focus my investigation?

Today, I did another diagnostics and it returned error code 38. Unfortunately, 38 is not in the list in the document "Automatic Transmission - Troubleshooting".

Just to to be sure of the DTC, I drove a bit, parked and did the test over again a number of times. Each time, it is returning 38.

Note that the last time I did the test about a week ago, it returned DTC normal.

Could anyone know what DTC 38 means?