Builds Dirty Bastard (1 Viewer)

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I fixed the flexplate issue. Just a note for those that may run with a similar setup; the earlier one piece 4l60e to later lsx series engine will require a flexplate spacer. For the dished flexplate, the order is crank, flexplate, spacer. Flat flexplate, the order is crank, spacer, flexplate.
Now that summer is here, I should be able to get this thing on the trails soon.
 
I was able to almost complete the skidplate/transmission crossmember today. I need a relief in the crossmember portion of the skid to allow for upward travel of the front drive shaft. I'll make this simple by welding in a 1/2 cut of some 3" tube for an arch and cut out the flat plate that remains.
Pics to come.
 
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Skidplate/ crossmember thing is installed along with the drivelines.
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I also installed the transmission cover to figure out how I'm going to install the shifters for the cases and the winters shifter. It looks like my best bet is to use a couple of tube clamps and build a platform for the shifters off of them. With the interior lined, I don't want to risk welding inside of the truck.
I'm wiring one circuit a day for the next week, so wiring will be checked off the list!
Getting closer every day to pulling it out of the garage.:smokin:
 
I built a platform to attach the cable shifters to the cage rather than the floor. Now they're all within easy reach of the driver and adjustable.
Wiring is almost done. No surprises so far.
Fuel is almost plumbed. I'm waiting on a three way fitting for my return lines to run two into one.
I'm now working on the dash configuration. I need it wired to set up the starter circuit and to connect the engine harness to the Dakota gauge panel.
20170712_151803.jpg
 
mr jits said:
I built a platform to attach the cable shifters to the cage rather than the floor. Now they're all within easy reach of the driver and adjustable.
Wiring is almost done. No surprises so far.
Fuel is almost plumbed. I'm waiting on a three way fitting for my return lines to run two into one.
I'm now working on the dash configuration. I need it wired to set up the starter circuit and to connect the engine harness to the Dakota gauge panel.View attachment 1496283
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That looks great!
 
I spent some time over the last few days sorting out smaller items; the rear quarter panel protection is permanently in place. I switched the fasteners over to button head stainless for a finished look. I worked on battery placement, fabbed up a battery box and thought I'd found a great place for it underneath the heater blower, but space was tight and it's a no go (plus underhood heat is something I'd like to avoid). Instead, I've decided to locate the battery underneath the driver seat. I'm going to use 2/0 cable (fine stranded, marine tinned) from the battery to an isolated 8 way distribution block. From the block I'll have a nice gauge cable to the starter and use the Warn provided cable to the winch. Doing the math on the load, I'll have no issues with drawing too much current over the short length of cable. I plan to locate the distribution block on the vertical reinforcement on the passenger side in the engine compartment to mitigate the chance of an accidental ground from a splash or debris (plus it gets high amperage wiring out of the way). To the distribution block I'll also run my relayed power for my cooling fan.
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
I know well the story about figuring out the right spot for the battery (-ies)... it's challenging for sure.
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Yeah, looking through your solution I was thinking something similar, but I don't have the underseat storage box which seemed an ideal location for the battery (it at least helped with locating it in the cab). Realistically, once you put a V8 underhood, the FJ40 doesn't have a lot of real estate.
 
Are you going to have some kind of battery jumping spot to get jumped or jump others?
 
Power steering hoses are mounted. After converting all the fittings to JIC, I'm wishing I hadn't, particularly on the high pressure side. It just seems like I'm opening myself up to leaking issues in the future.
All of the things needed to complete the wiring will be in tomorrow, so with some luck (and cooler days) I'll be able to get the truck started soon.
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The JIC fittings won't ever leak if they were assembled properly. What will leak is the line you have going between the frame and the radiator without a protective sleeve.
 
I've never had my fittings leak and I run JIC stuff. Hopefully yours will be problem free.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
The JIC fittings won't ever leak if they were assembled properly. What will leak is the line you have going between the frame and the radiator without a protective sleeve.
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mr jits said:
Sleeve was installed before attaching the other end. :flipoff2:
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boots4 said:
I've never had my fittings leak and I run JIC stuff. Hopefully yours will be problem free.
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I swear I should make a template where these quotes are the footer - it'd save so many thousands of people typing.

1) look what I did, but using passive verbs rather then definite verbs.
2) do it right, you did it wrong
3) I did it right (this was bonus, :flipoff2:)
4) you both are full of it because it never happened to me


:hillbilly: and to be clear (because it's just the kind of guy I am) I'm laughing AT you all, not with you.
 
Realized in my bin of take-off parts that I don't have any straps for the gas tank. Considering the ridiculous asking prices for those things all over the interwebs, I'll be making some over the weekend.
Fuel stuff is all in place, wiring is moving right along, so I may take a shot at a start-up Sunday.
 
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