Dirty Bastard

Discussion in 'HardCore Corner' started by mr jits, Feb 1, 2016.

  1. mr jits

    mr jits SILVER Star

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    So, for new folks, this went from being intended as a tube frame buggy to a 1971 FJ40 on tons and an LS.
    All the real good build stuff starts on page 3 and 4.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2017
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  2. cruisermatt

    cruisermatt ランドクル62! SILVER Star

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    What doubler and transfer case?
     
  3. mr jits

    mr jits SILVER Star

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    203/300 or 203/stak, I'm not sure which yet. I have a DS drop front so my choices are limited if I'm trying to start off with deep gearing in the rear case.
     
  4. mr jits

    mr jits SILVER Star

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    Front is pretty much torn down with all that's left being some time with the flap discs and some wire wheel action. I'm looking at a couple of different trusses so just have to decide on something and burn it on. Whatever I use will need to be from C to C with some modification to tie in to the cast CAD sleeve (the RCV's delete the two piece axle). Rear is going to go much the same, but I already have a truss with link brackets and a tie in between the HD cover and truss itself. Oh, front and rear will run 35 spline Lock Rites.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    Why truss the front? And I'd do a 203/205 if you do not want to spend a huge amount of money and still want very strong. Having a 4+ to one rear tcase (and another 2:1) is not really necessary with a auto.

    I'm looking forward to the build :)
     
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  6. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    Trussing makes sense to provide an location for the upper link mounts, since he's doing a 4 link front and rear. I don't think he'll need it for axle housing rigidity.
     
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  7. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    Easy enough to just make a upper mount. Then you don't worry about hitting things with a big ass truss as much..

    It's not a right or wrong thing, I'm just wondering why Jits is doing a truss from inner C to inner C. That's a lot of weight and potential loss in suspension compression. I have not heard much by way of tube failures due to the Cast long side (CAD section he referred to) section. That may be it tho..
     
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  8. mr jits

    mr jits SILVER Star

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    I'll integrate the strut mounts into the truss connecting to the outer C. The full length is as @GLTHFJ60 described, a primary attachment point for links, but also to strengthen the cast side (I know there are not many documented failures, but while I'm at it...). My lower links will be tied into the truss and the upper portion of the C with a ball joint saver tied into that (so I can still drive off trail if a ball joint fails). The truss will be low profile, so I'm hoping not to lose anything in regards to suspension travel.
    A 203/205 doubler may be the route I go, but I'll be keeping the 4.10's for a while so would like some more options for gearing. A 300 gives me the option of 2.62, 2.00, and 5.24; which is pretty respectable with the axle gearing, especially with an auto.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2016
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  9. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    With a truss that long, you may want to invest in a alignment jig.. That's a lot of heat on one side of the axle.

    Even at 4.11 axle gears, a 4:1 (overall) tcase gearset with an auto is very driveable while crawling. Ask around, see what others have to say. I know my 60 with a auto/203/splittcase goes as slow as I could possibly want. I honestly did not use double low much the times it has done the Con.

    D300's just need a bit more upgrading than a 205 does to be strong. Good tcases tho..
     
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  10. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    I've had a few issues with my Dana300 in the strength department, but it's likely magnified due to the amount of torque my engine puts out. I don't think that you'll have as many issues with a vortec.
     
  11. mr jits

    mr jits SILVER Star

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    How much torque are you putting out? I've actually thought of running a 454 vortec just because they're cheap locally.
     
  12. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    Torque is multiplied, so the 4BTxgear ratio= whatever is going into the D300. Yours will be doubled, but may be "nicer" in application due to the auto.
     
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  13. mr jits

    mr jits SILVER Star

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    I should probably just go 203/205 and if I need deeper gearing I'll go with something in the axles since it's pretty cheap to do in the dana's.
     
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  14. Mace

    Mace rock scientist.. Staff Member s-Moderator

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    It is a strong and cheap alternative. I like strong and cheap, which is why I like 14 bolt axles ;)
     
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  15. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    I've not dynoed my truck, but I should be in the neighborhood of 400-500ft/lbs of torque.

    Exactly. I suspect that with smoother power application via the automatic that it would be better. Having the doubler would probably negate that fact though.
     
  16. mr jits

    mr jits SILVER Star

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    Picked up some rock rings for the wheels, .25" steel plate. Parts are starting to amass for the build, I just need to get my friends 55 stripped so I can start building.
    [​IMG]
     
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  17. SuperBuickGuy

    SuperBuickGuy

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    what are you breaking in your D300?
     
  18. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

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    So far, a chromoly input shaft and a HD 32 spline output yoke.
     
  19. mr jits

    mr jits SILVER Star

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    And that's why I'm taking some great advice and going 203/205.
     
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  20. CreeperSleeper

    CreeperSleeper SILVER Star

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    Smart move on the 203/205. :cookie:
     
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