Does anyone know what that bulb is that goes in there? Mine is out.
12V: 84999-10170
24V: 84999-10100
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Does anyone know what that bulb is that goes in there? Mine is out.
Great thank you! Is there a generic like T5 or style ?12V: 84999-10170
24V: 84999-10100
Great thank you! Is there a generic like T5 or style ?
Great thank you! Is there a generic like T5 or style ?
You will need to go overseas for the 24 volt variant.
Good to know, thankfully the aussies got the 12v right so I’ll find a dealer here
What is the issue with them? Cannot get the screws out?I'll post pics later but electric hubs and 90149-50055 are currently the bane of my existence
I'll post pics later but electric hubs and 90149-50055 are currently the bane of my existence
I would just clean up that axle with some Emory cloth. Get rid of any burrs especially as they would tear up your new seal.Back story
New to me HZJ77 with just over 130k miles, knew it was suffering from front axle inner seal issues as was evident from birf soup dripping down onto front tires.
Pretty much rust free, its unblelievable and a pleasure to work on a vehicle that is while older doesnt suffer from siezed/rusted EVERYTHING.
Before ordering gasket/bearing replacement and rotors....cuz why not I confirmed no birf clicking or clunking when turning tight radiuses while moving.
RF was worse then LF so I started there with the tear down.
View attachment 3328105
My work environment is an open air garage with heavily compacted dirt floor.....its the land cruiser's native habitat.
Cover and body come off the electric hub no issue, hubs look good, plenty of contact materials
The electric face that holds the hub adj nut in place has 3 torx screws that hold it in place....torx and I have a long history of conflict....sorta like the english and the irish...lets not go there.
Based on the slightly deformed removal flats of the screws the PO had pulled apart front at least once.....every repair job is an installment of vehicle repair CSI......
I put a t20 bit into first screw and push hard into the hub face to ensure it doesnt weasel its way out and strip the flats it enguages with and apply pressure......<SNAP>
T20 bit snaps off not quite flush in the head......<lots of 4 and 5 letter words uttered> but its not quite flush and I was able to work the broken t20 head out and no damage to the screw.
Reach for a spare T20....rinse and repeat same method....<SNAP>.......SON OF A B*^&^*&%......second T20 bit snaps off but this time its flush......2 hours of creative persuasion trying to coax it out gently led to attempts to drill a hole into the remains of the hardened bit without damaging the surrounding screw.....
Yea.....y'all know how THAT turned out.....
It was having none of it....finally resigned to the dremel with a disk to slot it and managed to get it out with a flat head with minimal damage to the hub face....definately still usable but will have to procure more screws......anyone undertaking hub work on a vehicle with electric hubs should order several (all 6) replacements in advance....
I will be eliminating the electric hubs down the road sometime so no big deal and they are serviceable for a while.
Rest of the disassembly was pretty uneventful....essentally no grease left in the knuckle, it was all soup and not a lot of it at that unfortunately.
When I got to the inner seal it was obvious it had failed and the inner spring like structure had popped out and made contact with inner axle.
I'm inclined to say that the damage isnt enough to warrant axle View attachment 3328110View attachment 3328111replacement just yet so unless someone disagrees with whats in photos the plan is to finish cleaning in am and reassemble as much as possible pending arrival of T20 screw replacement(s)View attachment 3328109
View attachment 3328107
Well, decided to remove all doubt and spend more money cuz murphy struck on the knuckle shims and pre-tension was too low.....Knuckle is in but it might be temporary
Upon disassemly there were two shims on bottom marked 30 each.....no shims on top
Bolts top and bottom torque to spec
Reassembled same......preload is barely hitting 5lbs and min is 6.6
Given the scale is new and probably isnt the most accurate piece of kit but I suspect its still on the low side
Probably gonna button it up and get my hands on the proper sst to sort out spec shims and do this side over in the near future.
Edit....gonna calibrate this scale against known weights and confirm source of issue
Edit Mon AM: Scale measures 1lb+ under known 8# weight....that brings pre-tension of the steering knuckle bearings up to maybe 6# and the mins range starts at 6.6
If anyone has any feedback on whether this is "close enough" or whether I should bit the bullet for the sst and do it by the book I would appreciate it.
In the meantime I need to find some "Castle Body Grease" (08887-02007) or equivalent which is allegedly "Molycote 44" for the electric hubs