rear body mounts (1 Viewer)

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I have been looking through different engine compartments and been trying to figure out where everyone with LS engine stuffs that cruise control box.

Any pics showing the secret spots?
 
xtiaan2000 said:
out with the old

got some pictures. Cut all this stuff out. Thinking that I am going to run some tube steel across the back. I haven't quite figured out how to navigate the corners yet, but I want to try and reseal the open bottoms of the rear quarters.

It is hard to imagine putting this all back together without at least exfoiliating and sealing all the rusty areas under there. Has anybody done sandblasting in their driveway? I am in a suburb area. Is this possible?
View attachment 642133View attachment 642134View attachment 642135
Click to expand...
Wow! great job. I'm going to tackle that this (or next) weekend myself. No one complains as I blast in my driveway. I have the portable HF hopper and I use the white glass beads. I sweep up, sift and reuse it over and over.
 
I am beginning to organize to do the engine side of my AC and I was treated with this.

1B0A004C-B12C-44C2-9355-6A8000A4492A.jpeg

No way to get a fitting in there.

As I looked over the compressor I noticed about five bolts under the pulley. My hope was to loosen those bolts and clock the compressor to clear the frame rail. :/
After reading various accounts of ‘no’ and ‘yes’ you can I went for it.

Cracked the bolts and all the oil poured out. ‘I’m in now!’ Pulled off the back and realized that there were two studs tht needed to be oriented in one way only manner. Meaning cannot clock the case. Sadness

Now to get the oil back in. I’ve read too little is a problem and too much is a problem. All the things I read either said drain out the oil and measure and put that same amount back in. Sadly I did not drain first and measure.

Anyone shed light on this predicament?
 
I know there is compressor out there that will work but I just don't know how to find it.

I could go with ICTbillet and get their relocation bracket. I had originally bought it to clearance the axle, but then returned it because I had thought I solved the problem. No cheap bracket and it certainly is not as clean as having the compressor down low.

I could notch the frame, but for an AC fitting. Does not make sense to do that especially with it being right in an area that takes lots of load.


This project is stretching me!!!
 
I am sure they make the compressor fittings with an angle.
summin like this? Not sure if this fits your compressor but they should have options out there.
1660853996603.png
 
xtiaan2000 said:
Anyone shed light on this predicament?
Click to expand...
Pull the compressor once you figure out the fittings and dump the oil and refill with the recommended amount. you should do this anyway so luckily it came up in conversation.
FYI I like the PAG oil with the dye, it will make it easier to find those leaks later..
11022609_acj_p100uv_pri_larg.jpg
 
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Anyone have any experience between Sanden vs Denso compressors?

Seems like all the AC shops use Sanden, but have read lots of conflicting info on the comparison of the two.
 
Vintage Air sells a rear exiting Sanden compressor that with a certain bracket will fit an LS.

Another option to move forward w this AC chapter.
 
I'm no help with a/c fittings. I raised my motor up, so those fittings and other problems would clear. It's another reason I used a 1" body lift, to get the motor higher. I'll try to get a picture of mine.
 
Oh the things I wish I had known.

I think I might be able to handle with a different pump that has a rear dump. Vintage Air has a bracket that will mount a Sanden to my engine. Gonna do some measuring to see.
image.jpg


Still am not convinced that Sanden is better or worse than a Denso.
 
I recently swapped from the Denso stock LS compressor to the Sanden. The Denso unit definitely is better with fitting placement. Reason for my change was AC performance. I just wasn't getting the cooling expected. Classic Auto Air guys said it's due to variable displacement of the stock compressor. I guess the stock unit is controlled by computer inputs. I think I read that without the computer inputs it's more like a constant displacement Sanden. I'm not sure where I read that so long ago. Anyway I seem to get a better cooling with the Sanden for my Classic Air AC.

I bought the LS bracket from Summit Racing (it was pricey for a few small pieces of steel). I ran into a similar clearance issue with the frame rail and couldn't use the Classic Air high pressure port located at the elbow. I seemed to have a bit more clearance than your picture and was able to fit an elbow with about a 1/4 inch clearance after a little grinding. I debated with notching the frame which you may have to do if you can't find a way to change the angle.

I'll see if I can post up a photo later.

Everything I read says 8 oz of PAG oil in the compressor to start with. I just poured into one port and turned the pulley a few times. There's probably a half ounce of residual oil in it already if drained.
 
Thanks NikP,
I think I will move in that direction. Evidently Sanden has a compressor/bracket (vintage air) with ports out the back. Might work for me.

I don’t really wanna notch the frame.

I’ll put pics up when I get it. As I do!
 
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