Pre-03 nav delete how-to (6 Viewers)

[Unrulykid]

Oh no, you were clear. You nailed it down the first time.

I just completed the NAV delete on my 2002 LX 470. Everything seems to be working well with the exception of the rear AC. I know the buttons on the non-nav climate control work, because I replaced them all following the directions from another thread on this forum. The problem lies in that the rear AC button on the dash does not illuminate when depressed. And if I press any of the buttons on the rear AC controller, then the light for the rear AC button on the dash will illuminate. But none of the rear controls I’ll illuminate or function.
Any ideas?

I used number and letter codes stickers on every wire before I cut and spliced for the nav-delete. I have double checked all wiring connections and they are all per the NAV delete spreadsheet.

I am puzzled.

any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[lesgarten]

I just completed the NAV delete on my 2002 LX 470. Everything seems to be working well with the exception of the rear AC. I know the buttons on the non-nav climate control work, because I replaced them all following the directions from another thread on this forum. The problem lies in that the rear AC button on the dash does not illuminate when depressed. And if I press any of the buttons on the rear AC controller, then the light for the rear AC button on the dash will illuminate. But none of the rear controls I’ll illuminate or function.
Any ideas?

I used number and letter codes stickers on every wire before I cut and spliced for the nav-delete. I have double checked all wiring connections and they are all per the NAV delete spreadsheet.

I am puzzled.

any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

No answer for you unfortunately, but I'm cooking up a double helping of Popcorn and I'll be watching as well. Seems like an interesting problem.

 

[TXSunDevil]

Sounds like a wiring problem to me. Check the grounds. If any doubt find someone close and swap bezels. Just takes a second and it will tell you if it is a wiring or bezel/switch issue

 

[Unrulykid]

Sounds like a wiring problem to me. Check the grounds. If any doubt find someone close and swap bezels. Just takes a second and it will tell you if it is a wiring or bezel/switch is

I believe I figured out the issue. Through experimentation, I found that a certain grip on the A connector would cause the REAR button to function correctly. And upon further examination, I found that if I grip the A19 connector wire and shove it further into the A connector, it seem to resolve the issue. I found that the wire connectors do indeed move slightly into and out of the connector. So I replaced the A19 connector wire. But it did not resolve the problem. It is still intermittent depending upon if it is fully shoved into the connector, or left to do what it wants to do. I am not certain that this is a bad connector, but possibly a bad pin coming out of the AC amplifier. The pin appears to be in good shape upon visual inspection.
I also find that the A connector is extremely tight going in and out of the A receptacle on the AC amplifier.
so the wiring appears to be correct, but there is an issue on A19 connector, or possibly the entire A connector… still puzzling.
I guess that’s what I get for buying off of eBay

 

[Unrulykid]

I believe I figured out the issue. Through experimentation, I found that a certain grip on the A connector would cause the REAR button to function correctly. And upon further examination, I found that if I grip the A19 connector wire and shove it further into the A connector, it seem to resolve the issue. I found that the wire connectors do indeed move slightly into and out of the connector. So I replaced the A19 connector wire. But it did not resolve the problem. It is still intermittent depending upon if it is fully shoved into the connector, or left to do what it wants to do. I am not certain that this is a bad connector, but possibly a bad pin coming out of the AC amplifier. The pin appears to be in good shape upon visual inspection.
I also find that the A connector is extremely tight going in and out of the A receptacle on the AC amplifier.
so the wiring appears to be correct, but there is an issue on A19 connector, or possibly the entire A connector… still puzzling.
I guess that’s what I get for buying off of eBay

Problem solved...

The A connector had intermittent connectivity to the A19 pin. Ordered a new A connector body for $10. Now it all works without issue.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[Unrulykid]

Problem solved...

The A connector had intermittent connectivity to the A19 pin. Ordered a new A connector body for $10. Now it all works without issue.

Thanks for the replies.

This Nav- Delete wiring pinout chart is truly a plug-n-play setup. Provided that you were sourced hardware does not have an issue.

Many thanks to all who contributed to the development of this NAV delete profile.

 

[numbers]

LOL, I am in the same boat. I have both an 02, so pre-03 that needs this as well as an 05, that I have all the parts needed from the other Nav delete thread. Just need someone to do it. I am in Atlanta, GA and happy to pay for this service.

Right there with you, in GA as well and glad to pay someone to do a 2001 LC nav delete. Working to source the parts currently.

 

[Patassa]

Right there with you, in GA as well and glad to pay someone to do a 2001 LC nav delete. Working to source the parts currently.

Not trying to patronize anyone, but if you can cut a wire, and match it to the correct wire, over and over again, you can do this yourself.

 

[RH51912]

Well folks.... I now know what it's like to be in the bomb defusing squad. "Cut the blue wire... Cut the green wire... Cut the yellow/red wire...."

But I've got it in and everything appears to be functioning except for my rear air. I'm going to drive around and test things for a few days and I'll report back.

With the remaining connections to EFGHI, do I just clip those and remove those connectors? Is there a recommended suggestion for tying/capping those off?

 

[erwall]

Well folks.... I now know what it's like to be in the bomb defusing squad. "Cut the blue wire... Cut the green wire... Cut the yellow/red wire...."

But I've got it in and everything appears to be functioning except for my rear air. I'm going to drive around and test things for a few days and I'll report back.

With the remaining connections to EFGHI, do I just clip those and remove those connectors? Is there a recommended suggestion for tying/capping those off?

Best way, for me at least, is to put some heatshrink on it with some hanging off the end.

 

[Lar Cruiser]

I’ve watched this thread for a while but never really wanted to swap the face plate. Had searched and searched for instructions to replace the tape deck with a single DIN head unit. I finally found it one day and replaced the tape deck with an aftermarket unit a few months back. This forum always comes up when searching so I figured I’d link those instructions in here for others to find.


Post in thread '68 ohm resistor to replace stereo on NAV equipped LC and LX'
68 ohm resistor to replace stereo on NAV equipped LC and LX - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/68-ohm-resistor-to-replace-stereo-on-nav-equipped-lc-and-lx.965785/post-12725488

 

[pdot]

For those that have done the pin extraction method (@dmark84), do you have pictures (or video) of how to remove the pins from the terminal?

I've spent way too much time fiddling with the extractor, but can't find a reliable way to get the pins to come out.

 

[baggar11]

Wife got a nice upgrade to an '11 LX so we ended up selling the '02 this past weekend. Crazy to know that we bought it 3 years ago and made money on it. This economy is crazy. Even though I completed the nav delete way back in August of 2019, I was planning on doing a custom Lexus logo on the Sony deck I put in and then posting pictures and howtos. But never got around to it. So I'll post the finished setup that now goes with the new owner. (Who is very happy). If you're debating doing this mod, it made driving the LX a lot better. Do it!

 

[RNR365]

For those that have done the pin extraction method (@dmark84), do you have pictures (or video) of how to remove the pins from the terminal?

I've spent way too much time fiddling with the extractor, but can't find a reliable way to get the pins to come out.

Yes. Here's the connector opened up. Can't remember which one this is. This should make it easy...

 

[TXSunDevil]

For those that have done the pin extraction method (@dmark84), do you have pictures (or video) of how to remove the pins from the terminal?

I've spent way too much time fiddling with the extractor, but can't find a reliable way to get the pins to come out.

Check this manual also

https://www.toyota-tech.eu/wire_harness_rm/RM06H0E.pdf

 

[pdot]

Thanks guys! This is the diagram that unstuck me.

I was able to press down slightly on the visible metal portion, then pry up the "locking clip" to release the pin.

 

[RNR365]

Thanks guys! This is the diagram that unstuck me.

View attachment 2792831

I was able to press down slightly on the visible metal portion, then pry up the "locking clip" to release the pin.

View attachment 2792833

 

[ZRTactical]

Any current source for the 3 knob trims? Not seeing any with plugs on ebay.

 

[Patassa]

Any current source for the 3 knob trims? Not seeing any with plugs on ebay.

The plugs are harder, I couldn't get any guys on ebay to get in there and cut them out for me. Ended up getting a guy here in our classifieds who was parting out his LC to cut them for me.

 

[TEXAS 57]

Any current source for the 3 knob trims? Not seeing any with plugs on ebay.

Car-part.com
You can email the Salvage yard and ask them to give you the pigtails with the 3 knob selector. It's usually cheaper than eBay as well on this part.