Pre-03 nav delete how-to (9 Viewers)

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Aug 9, 2016
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Location
San Antonio, TX, USA
10-1-2022 edit: I relinked some deprecated pics and I'm self-hosting the spreadsheet.

Here is the link to my spreadsheet in PDF and XLSX formats.
Another update: print your own radio bezel. I modeled it in CAD and it's a free download.

Thanks to redjet for his original spreadsheet which mine is based off of. I mapped all pertinent pins for anyone to easily follow. My vehicle is a 2001 LX470 with Mark Levinson audio (North American LHD model specifically).

The relevant connectors are at the back of the AC Amplifier and the orange plug at the AC/Nav fascia. You will label the matching plugs on your harness I, H, F, G, and E. (I didn't order them that way, that's how the Toyota wiring diagram identifies them.) Also note the 20-pin connector at the audio control unit, it's a perfect match for the Metra 70-8113 harness.

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Photo below courtesy of redjet. Label the plugs that go into the corresponding connectors on the new non-nav AC fascia A thru D

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This is skipping to the end-goal, but this is a picture of the double-DIN radio bezel you can download and print.

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I didn't want initial wiring to be permanent so I used taps

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There are ~56 or so wires to connect, so crimp connectors would be too bulky for this job. Twisting wire, soldering, and heat shrinking manually gets tedious, especially doing all of that inside a car against a dashboard. For this job I used Solder Seal Wire Connectors. It is a segment of heat shrink tubing with adhesive on both ends and solder inside. A heat gun activates the adhesive, melts the solder, and shrinks the tubing in seconds.

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I tested my connections before tying everything up. Then I clipped the obsolete plugs and used heat shrink tubing at the end of each unused wire. I finished up by using hook and loop (velcro) cable straps.

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There it is. Fully functional air conditioning. I also tested the diff lock switch, hazard button, anti-theft blinker, seatbelt warning, clock, rear aircon. I have yet to test the rear defrost.

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I'll take a better picture next time. Here's proof that the 70-8113 harness works (at least for my chassis). I got a quad-core Android 5.1 touchscreen headunit (~$250-260) from overseas, a mount kit with curved fascia trim piece and install brackets (~$50) on eBay. Tethered to my T-Mobile smartphone I was able to install apps via the Google Play store and I installed Spotify, Pandora, Waze, Torque Pro, and a couple of parking meter apps. Monday I'll tackle the actual sound with updated speakers and a tiny Class-D Kenwood amp, but I want to deep clean the carpet before anything else.

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I'm jealous, and I'm wondering how much different an 06 LC is from your wiring
 
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That would be great. I've been sitting on the parts for about a year now and after I move I want to give it a shot. Hopefully it's straight forward. I had the junkyard pull a 3-dial climate control and pull out as much harness as they could and cut it, so I have about a foot and a half of wire to splice in. I'm terrible with wiring diagrams but it seems pretty straight forward. @TXSunDevil it wouldn't hurt to have additional progress pics and walkthrough!
 
This is a great write up, thanks.
Do you want to sell your navigation/radio controls?
 
That would be great. I've been sitting on the parts for about a year now and after I move I want to give it a shot. Hopefully it's straight forward. I had the junkyard pull a 3-dial climate control and pull out as much harness as they could and cut it, so I have about a foot and a half of wire to splice in. I'm terrible with wiring diagrams but it seems pretty straight forward. @TXSunDevil it wouldn't hurt to have additional progress pics and walkthrough!
I will take some photos. I have added a few more labels on the pdf primeral provided but I am not tech savvy enough to modify it and upload the pdf. I have already made my wiring labels and I am just waiting on the donor climate control. I changed the speakers today.
 
I just completed this install. It was not too bad it just took more time than I hoped. I spent about 3.5 hours last night making all the terminations and prepping the harnesses. Today I spent about 3 hours attempting to tidy up all the wires and install the new stereo head unit.

I started with the pinout guide @primeral provided. I went through it box by box with my FSM and I had a few additional wires. I printed it out and wrote them in. I did catch an error in the FSM on terminal A9. The pinout guide is right but the FSM has it wrong on one page. I do not know how to modify and upload the pdf but here is a photo.
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I purchased the pigtails from a junk yard for $25. I mated them with a 3 knob controller for $100. I spent another $30 on the solder seal connectors. My first step was identifying the connectors on the back of the new 3 knob controller and labeling them. They are A,B,C,D across the back. I then used the terminal guide from the FSM and labeled every wire on the donor unit. I used envelope labels cut in thirds and wrote the terminal letter and number on them. Such as A-20, C-1 etc. This would prevent me from having to look at the terminals while wiring up the unit. I stripped all the wires while inside in the AC so it was easier. A picture of the harness prepped up.
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The first thing I did was remove the negative battery terminal. I removed the old control, radio and navigation screen. I was left with 9 harnesses total. The top 4 I labeled “M” and tucked them back in the dash. These were for the MFD controller and have no use in the non-nav system. The two radio harnesses at the bottom were removed and pushed aside. I then focused on the remaining 5 harnesses labeled E, F, G, H, I. I identified these with the picture primeral provided and I verified it with the pictures provided of the connector terminals in the FSM. Once I had the harnesses I was going to join together I began to cut. This was the point of no return. I tried to keep this as simple as possible. I did it one connector at a time. I started with G and cut wire by wire. As soon as I cut a wire from a G terminal I matched it with the pre stripped wire using the pinout guide. These wires were all loose. I had to tie 3 ground wires together on one connection so I used a solderless terminal. I also had to wire the stereo illumination into the vehicle illumination so that required a 3 way also. I used the solder seal terminals. They worked great. I used a butane cigar lighter. I was afraid a heat gun would be too much in the small confines of the dash. I cut a wire and connected a wire. I never had more than one wire cut off the terminal. This was done to prevent any confusion. The wires all matched colors on the dash side and pigtail side which helped. There were duplicate wire colors so you did have to know what terminal you were cutting. I only used all the wires off I and F. The other 3 had a few remaining wires. I wrote them all down and verified they were not needed. I cut the unused wires and capped them. The problem I had was I was soldering as I went. This prevented me from cleaning it up real well. I had 9 harnesses and wires were being crossed and soldered everywhere. It was tough to clean up and make it look nice.
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I powered it up and checked it all out. Everything worked including the passenger seatbelt light, hazard light, center differential, antenna up and down, rear defrost, rear ac and the air conditioner. I then installed a head unit. This was a pain because the mounting bracket on the navigation screen are not meant to be used with a double DIN unit. I had to drill a hole in each side to make it work. Ideally, I would source some brackets from another unit but the one screw per side and the bezel will prevent the stereo from moving. There it is a successful conversion from navigation to non-navigation for $155 plus a little IH8MUD know how.
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I spent around $350 for a new head unit, 4 new speakers and antenna adapter. The radio has two antennas. This install was done because I needed new door speakers because mine were blown and I ended up here. Go figure. I also thought the navigation system really dated the interior of the car.
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I have a new set of 4 connectors that plug into the back of the 3 knob controller and I have the 5 male connectors I removed from my vehicle. If someone is set on making a plug and play harness I have the 5 male matches that just need mates. That is all that is stopped this from becoming a true plug and play.
 
Your awesome!
 
I wanted to update this in case anyone else is going to make the retrofit. The JVC head unit I purchased had the Sirius XM option. They offer a rebate if you buy the transmitter and sign up. I was going to be out of radio range so I installed one today. One of my issues on the stereo install was the horrible modification I had to make to the stock nav TV brackets. I had to cut the front of the bracket as well as drill it. This modification only allowed for 1 screw per side without drilling and tapping the head unit. Even with the one screw mount it was tough to get everything to line up. It was the most difficult part of the install. Photo of the drilled bracket.
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As you can see there is not metal in the areas that need metal and the holes do not line up. This one hole screw combo relied on the AC Bezel to prevent it from moving up and down. This is the kind of thing that keeps me up at night. I figured since I was pulling the head unit again to install the Sirius radio I would get the correct brackets. I ordered them from Camelback Toyota. They were roughly $15 each plus shipping.
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Toyota Part 86212-60071 and 86211-60071. There is a different bracket for each side and they are marked with a L and an R.
This is how the head unit now mounts.
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The head unit fits perfectly now with the new mounts. Primeral reported he needed a dash kit on the LX470 because of the rounding in the bezel. I believe he used the digital ac control not the 3 knob like I used. The Land Cruiser dash did not need a kit. I can now sleep peaceably knowing this thing is secure in the dash.
 
The LX dash does need a trim ring for a standard double DIN head unit. Additionally the mounting ears are different from the LC.

Great Job all on documenting.
What if he LX is going from nav to a 3 knob HVAC controller? Will it still need a trim kit? I thought it was the bezel difference that required the trim ring? It is hard to tell with some of these pictures X'ed out. From my reading it looks like the LX users can go with the Lexus digital climate or the LC 3 knob. It is good to know the LX uses a different stereo bracket.
 
Ok, so the bezel on the digital controller is the reason an aftermarket trim kit is needed. I think there are a few that are going to attempt this soon. Good info for those getting ready.
 
Let me clarify -

The LC and LX center stack trim can work in either vehicle.

If LX trim then the digital climate control fits that.

If LC the 3 dial Climate controls fit that.

Depending which center stack trim you choose dictates the radio mounting ears and weather you need and additional radio trim ring.
 
Is there a part number for the pigtail terminal housings that plug into the back of a 3 knob temp controller?
I can't seem to find it anywhere.

I picked up the 3 knob center dash in order to get rid of the factory nav in my 02LC.
 

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