I just completed this install. It was not too bad it just took more time than I hoped. I spent about 3.5 hours last night making all the terminations and prepping the harnesses. Today I spent about 3 hours attempting to tidy up all the wires and install the new stereo head unit.
I started with the pinout guide @primeral provided. I went through it box by box with my FSM and I had a few additional wires. I printed it out and wrote them in. I did catch an error in the FSM on terminal A9. The pinout guide is right but the FSM has it wrong on one page. I do not know how to modify and upload the pdf but here is a photo.
I purchased the pigtails from a junk yard for $25. I mated them with a 3 knob controller for $100. I spent another $30 on the solder seal connectors. My first step was identifying the connectors on the back of the new 3 knob controller and labeling them. They are A,B,C,D across the back. I then used the terminal guide from the FSM and labeled every wire on the donor unit. I used envelope labels cut in thirds and wrote the terminal letter and number on them. Such as A-20, C-1 etc. This would prevent me from having to look at the terminals while wiring up the unit. I stripped all the wires while inside in the AC so it was easier. A picture of the harness prepped up.
The first thing I did was remove the negative battery terminal. I removed the old control, radio and navigation screen. I was left with 9 harnesses total. The top 4 I labeled “M” and tucked them back in the dash. These were for the MFD controller and have no use in the non-nav system. The two radio harnesses at the bottom were removed and pushed aside. I then focused on the remaining 5 harnesses labeled E, F, G, H, I. I identified these with the picture primeral provided and I verified it with the pictures provided of the connector terminals in the FSM. Once I had the harnesses I was going to join together I began to cut. This was the point of no return. I tried to keep this as simple as possible. I did it one connector at a time. I started with G and cut wire by wire. As soon as I cut a wire from a G terminal I matched it with the pre stripped wire using the pinout guide. These wires were all loose. I had to tie 3 ground wires together on one connection so I used a solderless terminal. I also had to wire the stereo illumination into the vehicle illumination so that required a 3 way also. I used the solder seal terminals. They worked great. I used a butane cigar lighter. I was afraid a heat gun would be too much in the small confines of the dash. I cut a wire and connected a wire. I never had more than one wire cut off the terminal. This was done to prevent any confusion. The wires all matched colors on the dash side and pigtail side which helped. There were duplicate wire colors so you did have to know what terminal you were cutting. I only used all the wires off I and F. The other 3 had a few remaining wires. I wrote them all down and verified they were not needed. I cut the unused wires and capped them. The problem I had was I was soldering as I went. This prevented me from cleaning it up real well. I had 9 harnesses and wires were being crossed and soldered everywhere. It was tough to clean up and make it look nice.
I powered it up and checked it all out. Everything worked including the passenger seatbelt light, hazard light, center differential, antenna up and down, rear defrost, rear ac and the air conditioner. I then installed a head unit. This was a pain because the mounting bracket on the navigation screen are not meant to be used with a double DIN unit. I had to drill a hole in each side to make it work. Ideally, I would source some brackets from another unit but the one screw per side and the bezel will prevent the stereo from moving. There it is a successful conversion from navigation to non-navigation for $155 plus a little IH8MUD know how.
I spent around $350 for a new head unit, 4 new speakers and antenna adapter. The radio has two antennas. This install was done because I needed new door speakers because mine were blown and I ended up here. Go figure. I also thought the navigation system really dated the interior of the car.
I have a new set of 4 connectors that plug into the back of the 3 knob controller and I have the 5 male connectors I removed from my vehicle. If someone is set on making a plug and play harness I have the 5 male matches that just need mates. That is all that is stopped this from becoming a true plug and play.
