CV Boots Replaced with directions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SUMMIT CRUISERS
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The best tool to get the correct crimp tension (gap) is the OTC tool shown above. About $18 on Amazon. The pliers type work ok to get the crimp started but struggle to achieve the proper gap called out in the repair manual.
Look at it this way- tools are free when you save doing your own service work. And you will use these crimpers again.
They’re the pfran
Just thought I should add... If you are getting remanufactured cv's from the dealer, do not necessarily expect oem quality. I had some installed and the boots on both sides failed after one year, they cannot have used Toyota boots for the rebuild. Rebooting yourself is a better option.
For me the question is between rebooting and replacing the entire CVs on each side. My rig has 247k and both sides are leaking a bit (bought less than 2 weeks ago). No noise out of them, but it seems like a ton of work for a reboot and (maybe?) less for CV shaft replacement instead. I’m finding decently priced CV shafts with heavy duty boots and a 2 year warranty for under $50 each and free shipping on Amazon- same exact ones as rock auto for about $75 each, but then like $50 shipping, too “Cardone” brand. Or about $80 each at a local Advance Auto for lifetime ones... so I’m torn (get it?) if rebooting is worth it for me to just keep fresh grease in potentially very old CV shafts.
I just finished this job on Saturday. It is definitely a bit of work to clean out the old CVs and reboot them, it for sure would have been easier and taken a few hours less to just toss new axles in.
However, my truck (1998) with original axles and 297k miles, had no wear on perfectly sharp splines, the hub flanges were also sharp, and the internals of the axle had no unusual wear markings. I would have been replacing them for essentially no reason. While it was more work to clean and regrease everything, I'm happy knowing that I have all OEM parts where it counts.
However, my truck (1998) with original axles and 297k miles, had no wear on perfectly sharp splines, the hub flanges were also sharp, and the internals of the axle had no unusual wear markings. I would have been replacing them for essentially no reason. While it was more work to clean and regrease everything, I'm happy knowing that I have all OEM parts where it counts.
I agree that OEM is probably made best but also fear what (if any) damage may have already been done, since I have no idea how long they were driven leaky.
Make it easy, buy the new axles. Pull the old ones and go to installed the reboot kit. Check for damage and reboot if good or toss if bad and then install or return the new axles.
You can get a very good idea of how much grease leaked from the CV of the front drive shafts. Just look around fender well and control arms. The stuff really sticks and doesn't just wash off. More than say ~1/4 cup is to much, a few table spoon's is okay.
Often we'll see some seepage from ends of boot, not boot (hole/crack) itself. Those just need clamp tighten or replaced (re-clamp)
If deciding to re-boot or replace, it depends on condition of front drive shaft.
Re boot takes much longer to do right then replacing. I'd want the front drive shaft(s) to pass inspection with flying colors, before considering a reboot job.
Personally I'd not waste my time and money on anything other than new OEM front drive shafts, hub flange and cone washers if replacing.
Often we'll see some seepage from ends of boot, not boot (hole/crack) itself. Those just need clamp tighten or replaced (re-clamp)
If deciding to re-boot or replace, it depends on condition of front drive shaft.
Re boot takes much longer to do right then replacing. I'd want the front drive shaft(s) to pass inspection with flying colors, before considering a reboot job.
Personally I'd not waste my time and money on anything other than new OEM front drive shafts, hub flange and cone washers if replacing.
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Great write up, thanks @SUMMIT CRUISERS. Was able to follow this and get the job done. I preferred to use OEM clamps but didn't have the proper tool so ended up with using only one P-Fran clamp on outer most.
The only issue I came across is at inserting the axle back. Tried tapping using a 2x2 on a towel as described in step 23 and ended up with damaged inner boot. So after rebooting it with a new boot again I had to take a bit more look into how to insert it back. And figured out its not as hard as described here. I went under and aligned the axle by pushing slightly up and a another set of hands used a pry bar to give couple of taps on the grip/grove on inner end of the axle. It went in very easy. Please correct step number 23, that may help newbies like me.
This is the biggest job I've done by myself so far, so I may have followed the step wrong. But that can happen to anyone else in the same level of experience as me.
The only issue I came across is at inserting the axle back. Tried tapping using a 2x2 on a towel as described in step 23 and ended up with damaged inner boot. So after rebooting it with a new boot again I had to take a bit more look into how to insert it back. And figured out its not as hard as described here. I went under and aligned the axle by pushing slightly up and a another set of hands used a pry bar to give couple of taps on the grip/grove on inner end of the axle. It went in very easy. Please correct step number 23, that may help newbies like me.
This is the biggest job I've done by myself so far, so I may have followed the step wrong. But that can happen to anyone else in the same level of experience as me.
#23: Inserting axle into diff.
Another technique: if the locking ring is oriented correctly when you install the axle stub into the diff, and splines are meshed ( minor wiggle back & forth to align splines) while holding the axle with one hand between tulips and the other hand on the outer axle stub to support; then with a very firm shove, the axle should seat in one or two trys No dowels, no hammers or pry bars needed.
Another technique: if the locking ring is oriented correctly when you install the axle stub into the diff, and splines are meshed ( minor wiggle back & forth to align splines) while holding the axle with one hand between tulips and the other hand on the outer axle stub to support; then with a very firm shove, the axle should seat in one or two trys No dowels, no hammers or pry bars needed.
I went the extra distance to make sure i don't damage anything like stabbing the seal and breaking it, so i removed the entire knuckle to give me access. Holy hell that unit weighs a ton, you'll appreciate how overbuilt the 100 series are when you remove that, makes removing and inserting the axle 10x easier though.
For sure- removing the knuckle takes maybe an additional 20 min and provides wide open access to the work area. My first go-around with rebooting I tried leaving knuckle attached method and didnt execute CV removal very well. Much easier job(imo) knuckle off. Also a good time to refurb knuckle ala @2001LC style.
Quick question about the lube. Which is which? The new ones are both yellow.
90999-94242 and
Ditto - 94241
90999-94242 and
Ditto - 94241
Cool, those r in the trash.
