I would go with All alum. as my first choice, and OEM/TYC/KOYO - alum/plastic as a close second...don't bother with CSF as they have a tendency to heat soak and have slow heat exchange.
207 F moving or slow wheeling?
1FZ-FE The Big Overheating Experiment. TESTED SOLVED!!! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Desert Dino
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207 F moving or slow wheeling?
Also, US spec '91-'94 OEM radiators were brass/copper. So if you are putting an aluminum radiator in your '91-'94, you are improving it's cooling capability. The AZ guys tested radiators in their desert environment and IIRC, the TYC had the best performance specs of the ones they tested. And it was the cheapest, back then. The price on the TYC 1918 keep fluctuating on Amazon, so keep your eyes open.
AverageTanner
SILVER Star
I did a complete cooling system overhaul a few weeks ago... TYC radiator, OEM thermostat/water pump/radiator cap, hoses and added aftermarket water and trans temp gauges (my ‘93 is ODB1 so no scan tool option for me). Now running 194 at the hottest on my upper radiator hose in 98° Central Texas weather with A/C on full. Typically it stays around 188°. Before I did all the work I’m not sure how hot exactly it was getting but I know it was hot enough for my A/C to cut out.
I’ve also been reading lots of the posts about good louvers and think I’m going to add some over the next couple weeks after gathering a little bit more data with my cooling system overhaul (since nobody else seems to have gathered real numerical data on the effect of louvers)
I’ve also been reading lots of the posts about good louvers and think I’m going to add some over the next couple weeks after gathering a little bit more data with my cooling system overhaul (since nobody else seems to have gathered real numerical data on the effect of louvers)
- Thread starter
- #25
Yes, I totally agree with you guys @Marco Lau and @DAILY80 Full Alum rad is the best,
I couldn't justify putting a 2600$ rad (the price of an R D radiator, it will cost me to bring one to Israel)
Yes plastic rad tanks can have a catastrophic failure and I will be better with all Alum
But failures we see are from main two reasons bad installation or screws that got open or old age since plastic become brittle with time just like heater valve.
So here is the deal I change 10 TYC rads in the price of 1 R D all Alum rad
Plus, I have my one year CSF for back up. One of my friends will have to go into my back yard fight with my guard dog and bring it to me or my son will take my daily drive SUV and bring it to the nearest pavement.
My guard dog
the most important difference is that the TYC radiator is wider than the OEM or Koyo, and thus has more surface
we put the TYC into our 80, and it consistently runs cooler temperatures in the same environmental conditions than our LX with the brand new motor rebuild
granted, comparing a '93 80 to the '97 LX maybe apples to oranges, but the past 3000 miles (Arizona to Yellowstone and back, through altitude, snow, desert and >100F) confirmed this general conclusion
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I used to believe that - until the plastic tank TYC fixed what nothing else that I tried would. All Toyota 80 series OEM radiators for US spec vehicles were / are plastic tanks - whether brass or aluminum. Those of us that have added armor (weight) and increased tire size are putting more stress than the stock radiator can handle in extreme ambient temps - plus, when it's hot, that's when you want & need A/C. So, not realizing this, I suffered through 5+ years with a "tough" all brass CSF, thinking, yeah - my macho radiator's got no plastic in it & all the time glaring at my temp gauge 'cause when I cranked on the A/C it climbed like the national debt. I took a chance on the TYC and I'm so glad I did. I don't care if it's got cardboard tanks - it works. I can be careful working under the hood, plus I don't thrash it off road. And if I break it - so be it. For less than $150 - I'll stick a new TYC in it. If I could afford a RD all aluminum, I wouldn't be wasting my time on this forum trying to convince unbelievers.
agreed, at $120 for the TYC, I'd be willing to consider it a "wear item"
for what it's worth:
pulling into Las Vegas last week, we ran into a traffic jam on the interstate from having done >75 mph for at least an hour or two - at 107F outside, we saw coolant temps rising as we went directly from highway rpms to stop-and-go with A/C on
the 80 was at 207 at the same time when the reading on the LX was 215 - [so we turned the A/Cs off and ran all sweaty into the valet service booths at the Cosmopolitan
]
for what it's worth:
pulling into Las Vegas last week, we ran into a traffic jam on the interstate from having done >75 mph for at least an hour or two - at 107F outside, we saw coolant temps rising as we went directly from highway rpms to stop-and-go with A/C on
the 80 was at 207 at the same time when the reading on the LX was 215 - [so we turned the A/Cs off and ran all sweaty into the valet service booths at the Cosmopolitan
]
- Thread starter
- #30
Just what I did that keeps the rig OEM and can help at crawling and idling in place for AC (we take a nap) use or traffic jams
Given that the TYC is wider, is there anything special you have to do to fit one? (I'm wondering because I'm running my stock FZJ radiator with the 1HDT so fitment might be unusual in my case)
- Thread starter
- #32
No, it is a direct fit for 1FZ-FE no changes.
We had to loosen— not remove, just loosen— the two side brackets to get the TYC to seat on the bottom. Fit fine.
- Thread starter
- #34
@AverageTanner There is a scan tool option for you and it is not too expensive Toyocom. This Bluetooth dongle that works with a free Android APP. All you need is Android phone or tablet.
Product not found!
It is now out of stock, but J F will, make more
thicker/wider in the fore-aft dimension, not in height or width
- Thread starter
- #36
Toyota cuts the AC off at 226 and at that point the temp gauge begins moving up. Why waste time worrying about a spike of 203 in extreme conditions?
I’m more concerned with average running temps, how easily engine temp climbs, how often my AC cuts out, and ability to recover.
During summertime in central CA with the old CSF 2517, I saw 203 constantly under medium load. 215 at 70mph in 105f for miles and miles weekend after weekend was “normal”.
alia176
SILVER Star
just out of curiosity, i wanted to look up the cost of a Ron Davis radiator but only found generic info. If someone has a link to the 80 raditaor and a price, please post up the link here.
Thanks.
Thanks.
you will have to call Ron Davis. FWIW, mine was $1069.00 plus shipping
