This is the kind of info the world has been waiting to hear.Yes part time and I have no vibes up to about 50mph if I leave the hubs locked
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This is the kind of info the world has been waiting to hear.Yes part time and I have no vibes up to about 50mph if I leave the hubs locked
I suspect my vibes are from the double cardan. I had it built twice and the second shop had to work a little harder to correct the balance from the first round. Makes me wonder what it would be like if done correctly the first time
Not changing it out so will never know for sure
Are you calling stock radius arms "long"? I guess they are longer than stock jeep arms........ There would be no problem whatsoever if we were not so apprehensive about cutting and turning the knuckle balls. Post #50 tells the tale of how, even with a completely adjustable three link front set up, we are left choosing between optimal castor angle and desired pinion angle when we remain unwilling to cut, turn, and re-weld the knuckle balls. Bushings, plates, and even high dollar aftermarket radius arms are just bandaids that, from what I have seen and experienced, cater to pinion angle while offering us barely acceptable castor angle for a lifted rig on much larger than stock tires.
There was definitely some genius behind the resulting package we call they 80.Yes, the stock radius arms are long enough. A 4” lift introduces very little angle - it’s not harsh over bumps and handles the most critical test of hitting an interstate expansion joint around a turn at 70 mph.
My rig is unflappable on that test - we have a nasty one at the bottom of Floyd Hill on I-70 that has a bunch of pothole patches right as you hit it that about sends my IFS vehicles into the cliff wall and the 80 on 37’s drives through it like it isn’t even there.
The other test is if your arms want to push down on big climbs - my 80 always climbs, because that rigid radius arm design prevents tires from drooping way into holes where they won’t climb back out and the angles are so minimal the arms don’t want to press downwards like short Jeep arms (and overly flexy suspensions) will.
This is my old XJ.
View attachment 1723260
That’s a custom cut and turned D44 front, Currie high pinion 9” rear, and long arm y-link radius arm conversion.
I specifically kept caster on the low end - about 2 degrees - as radius arm designs aren’t spec’d around a lot of caster and you don’t want too much quickness in your steering when lifted.
The 80 with caster plates on a 4” lift outperforms this setup because of the extremely low bushing deflection and durability that doesn’t exist in Jeep rubber bushings.
There is nothing to be gained on an 80 with longer radius arms. You could y-link it or whatever to get rid of the bind, but at what stability cost to a vehicle that is way too big to not be a dual purpose road use vehicle?
My front swaybar has been a lawn ornament for a decade. Quick steering with swaybar snap is a terrible design goal IMO and increases rollover propensity on a lifted rig. It’s the about the last thing I would spend money to achieve.
I’ve had low caster on the Jeep pre-radius arms and custom front axle and it literally drove in a zig zag down the highway. The 80 is straight as an arrow at 90 mph without any weird steering feedback or any wobble of any kind. My only issue right now is I’m due for a front end rebuild.
What problem are we trying to solve outside of meeting a number in a book? The 80 just doesn’t have any of these issues that you spend a mint fixing on other platforms and it is so embarrassingly easy to stay in performance spec on a 4” lift because of the ability to covert the broken back driveshaft to a DC, which requires angling the pinion down with the resulting increase in caster.
Somebody was either genius with that design or we got very lucky, but I can’t begin to rationalize why you’d want to engineer around it. Unless you were converting to a Jeep suspension, in which case you get Jeep problems.
BT. DT. Never again.
There was definitely some genius behind the resulting package we call they 80.
Might have been an afterthought.
Both minor details that can be changed. The PHH lasts as long as any water hose could be expected to last and I don’t have an issue with the exhaust system. Compromises must be made some place.Um excuse me I'd like to have a stern word with Mr. PHH genius and the exhaust guy.
Wise choice on the Slee arms. I would make that my #2 mod after a lift kit.
Wise choice on the Slee arms. I would make that my #2 mod after a lift kit.
Woah looks like these are for a 6" lift.... probably not what I'll need.
Wise choice on the Slee arms. I would make that my #2 mod after a lift kit.
For those of us running stock height but considering a minor lift (2.0 to 2.5") are these Slee arms beneficial? I'm one of those guys that researches something to death before committing and have been browsing lift options for over a year now. I think I have it narrowed down to the 2.0" or 2.5" Dobinsons. Waiting to commit until I have a plan for weight (still thinking about doing a winch in the stock bumper vs a front bumper+winch).
I probably don't even really "need" a lift but the original springs are worn out so I figure might as well. The previous owner installed OME shocks so it still handles decently with the worn springs, but loaded down I can tell.
For those of us running stock height but considering a minor lift (2.0 to 2.5") are these Slee arms beneficial? I'm one of those guys that researches something to death before committing and have been browsing lift options for over a year now. I think I have it narrowed down to the 2.0" or 2.5" Dobinsons. Waiting to commit until I have a plan for weight (still thinking about doing a winch in the stock bumper vs a front bumper+winch).
I probably don't even really "need" a lift but the original springs are worn out so I figure might as well. The previous owner installed OME shocks so it still handles decently with the worn springs, but loaded down I can tell.
Um excuse me I'd like to have a stern word with Mr. PHH genius and the exhaust guy.