So engaged it in AWD with a locked center diff ?? You will get those grinding vibrations because your center diff is locked and the front and rear are fighting each other, this may be your issue
Another way to correct caster than plates, bushings or bearings??? 80 series (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter GW Nugget
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
So engaged it in AWD with a locked center diff ?? You will get those grinding vibrations because your center diff is locked and the front and rear are fighting each other, this may be your issue
icorradoi
SILVER Star
Only way to engage 4wd on a part time is by locking the diff. No binding going on when going in a sraight line. Before the arms I could engage 4wd and drive up to 80+ with no vibrations on accel or decel. Pretty sure it's just the change in angle of the front shaft.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 186
- Messages
- 11,036
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
A C&T is easy, problem is tie rod to radius arm only allows for about 3-4* iirc.
Ya can't just move the tie rod to the front of the axle making it crossover steering like some have said in this thread. Completely re-work the panhard and yes that will work. Not easy to re-work the panhard with coil springs, they are in the way. At this point it is like, really? Should I do all this work to keep the radius arms and 8" HP axle?
Honestly, no you shouldn't. Better to just build a custom axle, imho.
I converted my 80 to crossover and did a C&T on it. It worked well except under max compression, then there was major issues. Dangerous issues. When I sold that (I put that 80-chassis under an FJ62), I told the guy to remove and change the front axle and steering because it was dangerous and I am not responsible for what happens it you do not.
Now if you are willing to cut and weld, axle side of things + frame side, you can set it all up super sweet with the stock radius arms and whatever lift you want. People don't really seem willing to do this, not many anyways. But really, if you want it all, IE lift over 3", caster perfect, pinion angle perfect and coils that are not bowed in their buckets....cut it all off and start from scratch is my opinion. If you want all that and flex, go 3-link. If you want all that and lot's of strength, go custom axle. Otherwise, imho it is just band-aids.
On my current project, I am converting a 1990 70-series to coil sprung front suspension using Toyota parts to make it just like a stock 1999+ 70-series that is coil sprung from Toyota. I really wanted to keep it crossover steering but it just was not possible with the factory panhard. To re-work the panhard is a huge can of worms and it may not even be possible with coils because the coil spring and bucket is in the way, that is if you want to keep the panhard as long as possible as you should. So what I did was cut off the 70-series HP axle's knuckle balls. I then cut 80's off a donor housing as well. I have put the 80's knuckle balls on the 70 housing to convert the steering to 80-series style. More work than I had planned but in the end a stronger axle since I am now using the big 80 birfields. I also had to use Delta radius arms but that had nothing to do with caster or anything else. I needed a radius arm 1.5" shorter than an 80's because on the SWB truck I am doing the conversion in the trans crossmember is in the way. I opted for Delta arms over building a new crossmember from scratch.
I set pinion angle at 2* and caster at 4.5* on this axle.
Any ways, my point simply is, you can get it perfect but not without cutting and welding. The Delta arms are an awesome product and solution but they only fix caster. When I did my 80, the objective was to make it stock specs (or better) with 4-6" of lift. Had I just went a bit father with cutting and welding I think I would have had much better results. And don't get me wrong, I did have good results but again, it was dangerous under compression because panhard and steering started touching.
Cheers
Ya can't just move the tie rod to the front of the axle making it crossover steering like some have said in this thread. Completely re-work the panhard and yes that will work. Not easy to re-work the panhard with coil springs, they are in the way. At this point it is like, really? Should I do all this work to keep the radius arms and 8" HP axle?
Honestly, no you shouldn't. Better to just build a custom axle, imho.
I converted my 80 to crossover and did a C&T on it. It worked well except under max compression, then there was major issues. Dangerous issues. When I sold that (I put that 80-chassis under an FJ62), I told the guy to remove and change the front axle and steering because it was dangerous and I am not responsible for what happens it you do not.
Now if you are willing to cut and weld, axle side of things + frame side, you can set it all up super sweet with the stock radius arms and whatever lift you want. People don't really seem willing to do this, not many anyways. But really, if you want it all, IE lift over 3", caster perfect, pinion angle perfect and coils that are not bowed in their buckets....cut it all off and start from scratch is my opinion. If you want all that and flex, go 3-link. If you want all that and lot's of strength, go custom axle. Otherwise, imho it is just band-aids.
On my current project, I am converting a 1990 70-series to coil sprung front suspension using Toyota parts to make it just like a stock 1999+ 70-series that is coil sprung from Toyota. I really wanted to keep it crossover steering but it just was not possible with the factory panhard. To re-work the panhard is a huge can of worms and it may not even be possible with coils because the coil spring and bucket is in the way, that is if you want to keep the panhard as long as possible as you should. So what I did was cut off the 70-series HP axle's knuckle balls. I then cut 80's off a donor housing as well. I have put the 80's knuckle balls on the 70 housing to convert the steering to 80-series style. More work than I had planned but in the end a stronger axle since I am now using the big 80 birfields. I also had to use Delta radius arms but that had nothing to do with caster or anything else. I needed a radius arm 1.5" shorter than an 80's because on the SWB truck I am doing the conversion in the trans crossmember is in the way. I opted for Delta arms over building a new crossmember from scratch.
I set pinion angle at 2* and caster at 4.5* on this axle.
Any ways, my point simply is, you can get it perfect but not without cutting and welding. The Delta arms are an awesome product and solution but they only fix caster. When I did my 80, the objective was to make it stock specs (or better) with 4-6" of lift. Had I just went a bit father with cutting and welding I think I would have had much better results. And don't get me wrong, I did have good results but again, it was dangerous under compression because panhard and steering started touching.
Cheers
Don't forget locking the free-wheel hubs. But I didn't think '4wd' on a part-time provides any sort of 'diff lock'. My factory part-time 80 very definitely has no diff locks either in the front or rear axles or in the transfer case itself. it has an original HF1A transfer case.
Don't forget also that stock caster setting on a pre-8/92 is *not* +3 degrees like it is on 8/92-up.
What’s the best way to get factory driveability with 2” of lift?
You want as close to 4° as possible so I would want to know what your present caster measured before I did anything.
After the best solution would be @Delta VS arms Delta Vehicle Systems - FJ/FZJ80 Caster Correcting Front Radius Arms - $825.00 If Delta arms are not in the budget this week you have a few choice but knowing what your prior caster is will help point you in the correct direction.
lumbee1
Native American
You could always install OEM bushings and make your own drop brackets. My caster angle is 3.0*.
icorradoi
SILVER Star
Adding another update. After a long winter and moving and a bunch of other crap, I finally got my truck back on the alignment rack, so I though I would share what my readings look like for this set up. 75MM heavy Slinky's with 2.5 res. shocks and Slee control arms. Ends up at about 4" of lift. Caster is now at around 4.5 degrees and the truck drives great at all speeds.
I have OME 2420 and 2423 springs that are for 125mm lift and 295/75r16 tires! I've measured with the iPhone app and I have -3 degrees of caster on the front axle... I'm thinking of making a drop Box of 2.5" and 12mm in advance
Hi , how did this work out … I’m considering trying the same combo . What was the caster following the installation of the 6” SLEE arms ?I winced at that pic too!
I have 3" (75MM) Slinky HD springs on order and Slee control arms on their way. Getting rid of my OME 850/863 springs and I'll be running Icon shocks front and rear. According to Slee the arms are made for their 6" lift and give about 8 degrees of measured caster change. With my current lift and one inch spacers in the front and the OME bushings, my caster is currently at 0 and my truck feels darty at freeway speeds. I'm thinking I'll end up with about 5-6 degrees of positive caster with this set up. I'll get an alignment done and report back when it's all together.
Thx. Muddy feet
I
I just read the alignment report , are you still satisfied and do you think 4.4 caster is still where it would read . Thx.
The factory spec is +3 degrees of caster. If you really do have -3 degrees of caster the vehicle's steering will be uncontrollable.
I have 3 inch lift with Buds Customs 4 inch lift radius arms and caster is about +4.5 degrees which I'm comfortable with. Toe-in also needs to be in-range for good steering control.
The factory spec is +3 degrees of caster. If you really do have -3 degrees of caster the vehicle's steering will be uncontrollable.
I have 3 inch lift with Buds Customs 4 inch lift radius arms and caster is about +4.5 degrees which I'm comfortable with. Toe-in also needs to be in-range for good steering control.
Did you have to buy those Buds arms from Australia or were they US sourced ?
My guess would be that shipping would be brutal from there to the states !
My guess would be that shipping would be brutal from there to the states !
I haven't corrected the caster yet... I'm going to try Ironman4x4 Caster PlateThe factory spec is +3 degrees of caster. If you really do have -3 degrees of caster the vehicle's steering will be uncontrollable.
I have 3 inch lift with Buds Customs 4 inch lift radius arms and caster is about +4.5 degrees which I'm comfortable with. Toe-in also needs to be in-range for good steering control.
and let you know how much the caster is left to measure! 
The Buds arms are made here in Australia - 7X / 80 / 105 LANDCRUISER - 4" LIFT - 32MM THICK RADIUS ARMS - https://www.budscustoms.com.au/7x-80-105-landcruiser-4-lift-32mm-thick-radius-arms.html
I got to the site. Was there a specific product you were presenting?
