What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (66 Viewers)

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Lcshack said:
Me and my boy took the 80 to play on our local hill and she was cutting out real bad once I had it at steep angles. Would start lunging and bucking if I held the skinny steady. Any thoughts on what I should be looking at? I do have a full tank of fuel.
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I'd bet you have a torn air intake hose. The big rubber hose between the air cleaner and the throttle body - they're notorious for getting brittle and falling apart. I'd bet the engine movement as you are on the hills/angles are opening up the cracks and causing your rough running issue.
 
bryson said:
I'd bet you have a torn air intake hose. The big rubber hose between the air cleaner and the throttle body - they're notorious for getting brittle and falling apart. I'd bet the engine movement as you are on the hills/angles are opening up the cracks and causing your rough running issue.
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Mine was caused by the engine harness near the EGR valve. Repaired some bare wires and wrapped everything in a high temp wrap. No more studdering and bucking.
 
I haven't done anything but drive to work all week. I had a short 10 hour day Wednesday and work 12's through Sunday. Not complaining much though, I just ordered my labs double swing rear bumper with the December discount code and look forward to getting that put together in January/February.
 
bajaphile said:
View attachment 1371038

Installed the Slee 4" rear medium springs. Left: OME 864; Right: Slee 4".
Differences:
Wire Diameter: OME = 19.75mm, Slee = 21.25mm
Coil Wraps: OME = 7, Slee = 8

They are essentially the same free height. Slee might be about .25" taller. To match my OME 850J coils in the front, I had to add a 1" spacer to the Slee springs. I am sitting pretty level now. These springs are very similar in appearance.

The main difference so far is the ride. Slee springs are much more "plush" even though the wire diameter is thicker. Assuming the extra coil wrap attributes to the ride quality. OME 864's were a bit rough even with a load. So far the Slee seem really nice. Will have to see how they handle extra weight when I load up the truck.
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I'll be really interested to see how they handle a load. I have the 864 in the rear and it rides like a pick up truck around town and no load. I wouldn't mind having the best of both worlds. :grinpimp:
 
bryson said:
I'd bet you have a torn air intake hose. The big rubber hose between the air cleaner and the throttle body - they're notorious for getting brittle and falling apart. I'd bet the engine movement as you are on the hills/angles are opening up the cracks and causing your rough running issue.
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Headed to get a fuel filter (and a spare) to change it out now. Ill check my intake hose out when I get back. Thanks!
 
Did caster correction plates after removing the caster bushings since they were shot. Oil change and alignment.

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grizzlygibbs said:
Was the plate install straight forward? I have a set of Metal Tech plates
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The bushing removal is a bit of a pain. We burned them out then used a sawzall to cut the race. I'd recommend 2 people to get the arms back on with the plates since you have to rotate the axle to get the bolts in. The cutting is easy and doesn't have to be precise at all since the bolts locate everything and then you weld the plates on after it's all together. It'll take 2 hours per side minimum if you kinda know what ur doing. You will need decent ratchet straps and very large pry bar or crow bar for the axle. It's not too difficult but I could see it being very frustrating by yourself and if you aren't too mechanically inclined. There's no finesse or special skills needed.

IMG_7187.JPG
 
Kevin8086 said:
The bushing removal is a bit of a pain. We burned them out then used a sawzall to cut the race. I'd recommend 2 people to get the arms back on with the plates since you have to rotate the axle to get the bolts in. The cutting is easy and doesn't have to be precise at all since the bolts locate everything and then you weld the plates on after it's all together. It'll take 2 hours per side minimum if you kinda know what ur doing. You will need decent ratchet straps and very large pry bar or crow bar for the axle. It's not too difficult but I could see it being very frustrating by yourself and if you aren't too mechanically inclined. There's no finesse or special skills needed.

View attachment 1371176
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I'm pretty inclined mechanically so not too worried and have seen some how-tos just not looking forward to getting the old out. Merry Christmas!
 
Ya just burn them out and cut them. Burning takes a little while but just do them all at once. It's just one of those not fun to do necessities. The truck feels so amazing now. It was scary to drive before. Darts all over the road, could never relax when driving. It was at -1.2* caster so it was pretty scary. Well worth it now.
 
Kevin8086 said:
Ya just burn them out and cut them. Burning takes a little while but just do them all at once. It's just one of those not fun to do necessities. The truck feels so amazing now. It was scary to drive before. Darts all over the road, could never relax when driving. It was at -1.2* caster so it was pretty scary. Well worth it now.
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How old or how many miles were on the bushings?
 
Take lots of pictures of the hoses coming out of the T-body and manifold. It will save you lots of headaches during reassembly if it has been apart for a long time. :bang: :doh:
 
Jumped it..... again. 3rd time in a weeknin a 9 mos old battery. Time to find the culprit and have a few plces to start.
IMG_9552.JPG

I have the ARB fridge hooked up constantly but not powered on.

Just installed a new Head unit a month ago or so

And lastly but maybe most suspect is the scanguage after reading of @NLXTACY experience. Was there a date or serial number range for the units in question?
 
Hmmmm thanks. I havent gone out to find it on yet but sometimes when i fire up the truck the unit wont power up till I unplug and replug it back up. Was hoping this might be a clue. Time for an ammeter I guess

Dont be shy if your at the folks for the holidays :)
 
jfz80 said:
Jumped it..... again. 3rd time in a weeknin a 9 mos old battery. Time to find the culprit and have a few plces to start.
View attachment 1371239
I have the ARB fridge hooked up constantly but not powered on.

Just installed a new Head unit a month ago or so

And lastly but maybe most suspect is the scanguage after reading of @NLXTACY experience. Was there a date or serial number range for the units in question?
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Diggin the CCWHS (custom cold weather hood support) :flipoff2:
 
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