chucabra-thanks bud, my rig is also a 3" lift as well. Rick your rig looks good with either tire IMHO
Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (10 Viewers)
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GA Architect
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- #682
See if this video helps explain the drive flanges and their respective angles: "Drive shaft velocity"
My rear shims have the fat side towards the back, because my rear pinion needed to adjust down a bit. You want to try to get your drive flanges parallel as much as possible, and be sure you have your drive shaft 'in phase'.
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Thanks for videos...I am always on you tube but never thought to look for things like this..now I am a little smarter...So my shims are installed the opposite(wrong)way as yours used to be!!!!...what I figured is if you lift your truck with taller shackles,basically you pinion at differential is raising up and you need to lower it back down with shims so the taller side of shim needs to be in the back-towards the back shackles...I will still measure the angle with that magnetic angle finder tomorrow to be sure....question is....does the angle on the rear driveshaft at the transfer case needs to be the same as angle of the front driveshaft at the transfer case front or it don't matter?My driveline don't vibrate but truck wander like hell at 45 mile /hour speed....it is scary...I will also check the toe in ....This forum rocks...Thanks ...Mike
Just curious - with the additional 1"+ offset in those widened wheels , how is the turning scrub ? I'm sure it would alter the Ackerman angles in the steering geometry at least to some degree . My old Sami would almost come to a stop if I didn't power through a full lock sharp turn in a parking lot .
Sarge
Sarge
GA Architect
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- #685
Sarge - I never thought about that. However, when I do pull into a parking space with a full-locked wheel, I coast right in.
GA Architect
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- #686
Glad to have the fatties back on my rig! 
Rick, it looks great...Finally happy?
...Honestly I like it both ways...My truck got 35/12,5 and I love the look...already got the steelies and in near future will get 33/km2 ...I will just keep 2 sets of rims I guess...I just looked today at the pinion angles and rear shims I will have to remove and maybe flip,but front axle is a mess....front pinion is going straight to the driveshaft with no angle at all...Flanges are not parallel no way...In sure have to flip the shims,too...Why somebody installed them backwards?Thats one of the things why my 40 wander like a donkey all over the road...I hope I will take some pictures of the truck soon(don't have the smartphone yet)...
...Honestly I like it both ways...My truck got 35/12,5 and I love the look...already got the steelies and in near future will get 33/km2 ...I will just keep 2 sets of rims I guess...I just looked today at the pinion angles and rear shims I will have to remove and maybe flip,but front axle is a mess....front pinion is going straight to the driveshaft with no angle at all...Flanges are not parallel no way...In sure have to flip the shims,too...Why somebody installed them backwards?Thats one of the things why my 40 wander like a donkey all over the road...I hope I will take some pictures of the truck soon(don't have the smartphone yet)...
GA Architect
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- Thread starter
- #688
Replaced a few emblems over the weekend, used the correct Toyota OEM parts.
Old:
New:
Old:
New:
GA Architect
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- Thread starter
- #689
Got a little chilly this weekend while out in my 40. When I went to pull out the heater blower knob, the knob & shaft came right thru the dash. Time for a rebuild or replacement. I wouldn't mind finding someone that has a switch without the connector, maybe just gathering dust in a parts bin that they could let go of?
Photos, we all like photos....If you have never seen the inside of the'77 FJ40 - OEM 87290-60041 heater blower switch, here ya go.
Now you have.
Photos, we all like photos....If you have never seen the inside of the'77 FJ40 - OEM 87290-60041 heater blower switch, here ya go.
Now you have.
You musta been powerful cold, Rick!!
GA Architect
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- Thread starter
- #692
Not too bad to replace that item. Remove the ash tray and it's trim ring, and you have access to that critter.
Just post up in the Want Add or check with several larger companies that have a bone yards. Just saw where @Ratboy purchsed Classic Cruiser in Salida, Colorado that has over 300 parts trucks.....Good luck!
That switch looks very similar to the wiper switch that is still available. Look at these photos:
Shutterfly
Perhaps there is a way for you to swap a few parts and convert it.
Shutterfly
Perhaps there is a way for you to swap a few parts and convert it.
GA Architect
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- #694
Installed this last night, and shouldn't have to bother with it for few years to come.
cruiserkreutz
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Have you used Odyssey batteries before? I have only recently heard of them and don't know much about them. I did an online search and read some, but I always like MUD member reviews.
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GA Architect
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- #696
So I've read and been told, Odyessy is one of the best batteries made these days. I guess I'll see how it holds up in the years to come. It was cheaper thru 4-Wheel Parts than it re-badge as a DieHard Platinum thru Sears.
GA Architect
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- #697
I went nuts last night....no, literally! Nuts with Lug Nuts that is. Here have a look.
12x1.5 - 21mm, yellow-zinc, with 60 degree cone seat for steel wheels. I used my 13/16 impact socket with an extension on a 3/8" breaker bar. This is my lug wrench set-up in my little green Toyota pouch under my drivers seat.
Note, the 13/16 socket fits tighter than a 21mm socket will.
12x1.5 - 21mm, yellow-zinc, with 60 degree cone seat for steel wheels. I used my 13/16 impact socket with an extension on a 3/8" breaker bar. This is my lug wrench set-up in my little green Toyota pouch under my drivers seat.
Note, the 13/16 socket fits tighter than a 21mm socket will.
GA Architect
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- #699
Good question!
I had a hard time wanting to remove my old rear emblems because I liked the white back ground better in both pieces. But, as with most things on my rig, I'd rather have new OEM units from Toyota.
Same deal with the front grille badge - every old one I've seen is white and the new OEM item is that deep cream shade. Still, new OEM is the only way to go.
