General Grabber AT2 315s on a 1997 FZJ80

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Everyone likes some good tire porn.

So I've had these tires for almost a year now (bought 8/20/08), and recently had to decide how much I really liked them.

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I decided stick with them. :lol:





Purchase

When looking for tires, I was on a budget of $1k or less. I had a couple of qualifications:

1) I wanted 315's.
2) I wanted a full sized matching spare.

Finding 5 tires in a 33" size was easy within budget, I could pretty much pick most of the popular choices. Finding 5 tires in a 35" size was quite the challenge, as the price seemed to skyrocket.

Most 35's I could find under $200 a tire were worthless for wheeling. The other tire I seriously considered was the All-Terrain T/A KO, but decided against it based on the lack of any sort of sidewall lug, that they could not be studded, the Tire Rack ratings (lower than the Grabber AT2), and the tread pattern seemed to be a bit on the closed side.

After a lot of research I chose the General Grabber AT2, as they fit my budget, met the severe snow service requirements, and had the most aggresive tread pattern of an AT that I could find.

ge_grabber_at2_owl_ci1_l.jpg




Experience

As my 80 is my DD, on road performance matters to me more so than a trail only rig would. I can safely say that the Grabbers have far exceeded my expectation, as I've driven them through everything from dry pavement, to snow and ice, to heavy thick rain.

Previously I had the Toyo M/T's which seem to be the popular tire out here. Frankly, I hated the Toyo's. They did okay on rock, but tended to slip on any sort of a slick surface. In wet/icy conditions I did not like the way they handled on road, and on wet or slippery rock (such as rock covered by dust/sand) they did not grip well.

Since I've had the Grabber's I've ran them through many different types of terrain: Mud, wet clay (IH8CLAY), ice, dry powdery snow (4+ feet deep), wet crusty snow (4+ feet deep), dirt, gravel, sand/powder so fine and slick it might as well be ice, rock.....we have a wide variety of terrain and conditions around here.

My only "complaint" was in snow I thought that they just handled "okay". Knowing what I know now, the majority of that mild disappointment in the performance was because I was running them at too high a PSI (around 20, IIRC). Had I dropped the PSI, I believe that the performance would have increased quite a bit. I will be sure to test this next snow season. :D

One of my biggest surprises with these is how stiff the sidewall is. Despite only being two ply, each of those are thick. My concern when I got them was that I would shread the sidewalls, but despite spinning the tires with the sidewalls pressed hard against sharp rocks, I've yet to even cut the sidewall. (Well, at least until the picture above!)



Tire Pressure

Probably in large due to the stiff sidewalls, I've run at progressively lower PSI's it seems for each trip I've made. The last trip I took (which was the one where the picture above was taken) I was running at 12 psi the whole time. While I wasn't in any situations where I was overly concerned I would break a bead, I did run through some nice rock beds where the sidewalls got lots of flex to them, as well as bombing down the forest service roads at a good clip.

One of the earlier trips this year I borrowed a buddies airdowns, which were not setup correctly. They aired my tires down to between 4 and 9 PSI. :eek:

I used a little (Harbor Freight special) air compressor I had, and got all the tires to 11 or higher...except one that was at 7.

I then proceeded to climb (most of the way) up an very steep, very slippery, (wet) clay covered hill.

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(Just to illustrate the nastyness of the hill.....these are not 35's. I believe they were 44's or something close to that.)

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Not a single vehicle made it all the way up. Never again....


I think that 12 PSI seems to be the sweet spot for these tires. Visually they bulge about the same as the BFG MT's at about 15-16 PSI, and they've held up extremely well even at the lowest pressures.



Wear

Despite being a relatively "soft" feeling tire (compared to say the Toyo M/T's, where the lugs feel much harder) they've worn incredibly well. I've taken them wheeling quite a bit, and put on 8k miles since I bought 'em. There is some very very small chunking on the outer lugs (only on the outside of the tire, doesn't seem to be any on the inside or in the middle lugs), and some almost "tearing" marks where I suspect they will chunk eventually.

Despite being almost a year old and over 8k miles, the tire tread depth is identicle to the brand new spare that they put on compared to the 3 tires with 8k miles on them. My wife's Toyo M/T's (my old ones) have worn visibly in the same period of time, and she puts less miles on her truck than I do.

I only have limited comparison to other wheels that club members run, but another members experience with the Toyo M/T's seem to match up with mine. Another club member runs the Coopers (I believe), and even after only a few runs there's some significant chunking going on (more so in a few months than mine after almost a year).

You can see in the very first pic how well they've held up, despite plenty of abuse.



Summary

All in all I'm very happy with these shoes. I don't think they'll do as well as other tires you could pick out for other situation (like Nay's TRX's for snow/ice). But on the flip side, I don't think they have any weaknesses either. These are true All Terrain tires, and I've been happy with them regardless of the conditions on the ground.

DSC_0326.NEF.jpg


Don't let the tire fool you, the gap between lugs is larger than it looks, it's just very deep.

My biggest complaint with these tires is that they live up to their name a little too much. They tend to grab gravel, and fling it back up into my rockers. Or they'll grab and hold on, and I'll have a moment of panic while I try and figure out where that sudden clicking noise is coming from. :lol:

DSC_0210.jpg







Oh, and I almost forgot. How did I get a tree trunk (albeit a very small one) through my sidewall?

Decent amount of speed (~20 MPH), combined with the tree having fallen to be perfectly positioned at an angle to punture, combined with bouncing off a rock and moving hard sideways into said tree trunk.

Here's a pic of it hung off the back of TOY350's well built 80.

DSC_0197.jpg


Yeah. The guy who insisted on buying a full sized matching spare.....forgot his spare. (Add: "It's just an easy run" to Famous Last Words.)
 
Good write up Mr. Ebag :D.

Only part you failed to mention was not only forgetting the spare, but forgetting the lug key :flipoff2:.... oh wait we were just talking about the tires. ;)

Oh and nice pic :p
 
excellent review, thanks for the effort.

Where did you get the best price from?

thanks again.
 
Good write up Mr. Ebag :D.

Only part you failed to mention was not only forgetting the spare, but forgetting the lug key :flipoff2:.... oh wait we were just talking about the tires. ;)

Oh and nice pic :p

Lug key? What lug key?

Actually it was somewhat disturbing how quickly that came off. Had a 4 way lug wrench, put the right size on it, two taps with a whammer, and it spun right off. If I were stealing tires, I'd laugh at that sort of "locked" lug.

excellent review, thanks for the effort.

Where did you get the best price from?

thanks again.

TireRack.com

Price as of 08/20/08: $153
Price as of today: $171

They're actually back ordered on them, so I'm going to have to wait to get my (new) spare until about the 2nd week of July. As long as I get it before the McGrew trail run, I'm happy.


Oh, I forgot to mention balance.

These are very true and well balanced tires. On the nasty clay wheeling trip, all my weights got strippped off my front DS wheel. I didn't even notice.

When I took my truck in to get the spare put on, I had them strip the wheel weights and put in 3 oz of airsoft pellets (to work as dynabeads). The truck accelerates and brakes very smoothly, even with the couple hard (but not panic) stops I've done.

There is a shimmy that starts at somewhere between 75 and 80. By 85 it gets to be a pretty serious wobble (though not what I'd call a "death wobble"). I think the 3 oz that I have in there isn't quite enough, if I was doing it again I would probably put in 4 or 5 oz instead of 3 (5 might be too much).

Considering I never do more than about 72 (65 on my uncorrected speedometer), it's pretty much a non-issue. At that speed caster is probably also having a significant effect, as I'm sitting at -1* (uncorrected).

I honestly think I could run these tires without any weights at all, and still be okay. :meh:
 
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Howdy! Wasn't that covered as a Road Hazard on the tire Certs? John
 
Yep, read the socket or 4way lug trick here on 'mud :)
 
Howdy! Wasn't that covered as a Road Hazard on the tire Certs? John

Sidewall damage is never covered. (And technically any "off road" use isn't covered, most tire places around here extend that to mean "off pavement.")

If it had been in the tread.....probably. If it'd been on the shoulder....maybe.

Thanks to the influence California has on us, most tire places won't even touch it if it's not clearly in the tread. I've had tires with a screw on the shoulder of the tire (where the tread is still there, just tapering off), and most places won't touch it.

I didn't honestly expect to get it covered, though I did ask. :lol:
 
Sidewall damage is never covered. (And technically any "off road" use isn't covered, most tire places around here extend that to mean "off pavement.")

If it had been in the tread.....probably. If it'd been on the shoulder....maybe.

Thanks to the influence California has on us, most tire places won't even touch it if it's not clearly in the tread. I've had tires with a screw on the shoulder of the tire (where the tread is still there, just tapering off), and most places won't touch it.

I didn't honestly expect to get it covered, though I did ask. :lol:
I suppose if I guy was really sneaky/unethical/broke, he could remount the tire when he got home, drive around the block until is is totally shredded, and then take it in for a road hazard replacement. Of course, nobody here on MUD would do a thing like that. I shredded a Krawler on the freeway at about 75 mph. That was pretty exciting. It was kind of old, but the tread depth was pretty deep, and the rest of the tires ( bought at the same time) on the rig were in good shape, so Discount Tire covered it. Lucky me. John
 
I suppose if I guy was really sneaky/unethical/broke, he could remount the tire when he got home, drive around the block until is is totally shredded, and then take it in for a road hazard replacement. Of course, nobody here on MUD would do a thing like that.

Oh no. I was dang proud of myself. When I do something wrong, I do it right! :grinpimp:

(Maybe next time though..... :hhmm: )
 
I run the BFG A/T in 285/75/16 and I like them in every situation except mud and, specially wet roads, in where their grip is quite bad.

May the General Grabber be betten on wet roads as they have a softer compound.

You say they have only 2 ply, how many do the BFG have?
 
I run the BFG A/T in 285/75/16 and I like them in every situation except mud and, specially wet roads, in where their grip is quite bad.

May the General Grabber be betten on wet roads as they have a softer compound.

I've been very happy with them, and we've had some unusually heavy rains this year.

You say they have only 2 ply, how many do the BFG have?

From TireRack (for the All-Terrain T/A KO):

The tire's internal structure includes twin steel belts on top of BFGoodrich's TriGard (3-ply polyester cord sidewall plies) construction for strength and durability

I'm assuming that means 3-ply.

Of course that doesn't tell the whole story. For example the Toyo M/T's are "only" a 3-ply, but anyone will tell you that their sidewall is incredibly thick (many say even too thick).

I don't have any personal experience with the BFG AT T/A KO's.
 
IIRC, I believe 'ply ratings' are actually determined by the thickness of the plies now, not the actual individual amount of plies.
 
IIRC, I believe 'ply ratings' are actually determined by the thickness of the plies now, not the actual individual amount of plies.

I believe that the "ply rating" is actually more like the load rating. I know that the Grabber's literally have two plies in the sidewall.

From TireRack's site:

The load range or ply rating branded on a tire's sidewall helps identify its strength and ability to contain air pressure. While specific load ranges are assigned to passenger tires, load ranges are identified in ascending alphabetical order for light truck tires (the further along the letter is in the alphabet, the stronger the tire and the greater amount of air pressure it can withstand and load it can carry). Before load ranges were adopted, ply ratings were used to identify the relative strength of light truck tires with higher numerical values assigned to tires featuring stronger, heavier duty constructions.

Today's load range/ply ratings do not count the actual number of body ply layers found inside the tire, but indicate an equivalent strength based on early bias ply tires. Most radial passenger tires have one or two body plies, and light truck tires, even those with heavy duty ratings (10-, 12- or 14-ply rated), actually have only two or three fabric body plies, or one steel ply.

Further down you read:

Code:
		Load Range	Ply Rating	Load Pressure (psi)
LT-metric	B		4		35
LT-numeric	C		6		50
Flotation LT*	D		8		10
		E		12		65
		F		80		95

Despite being a load range D tire, the Grabbers literally have 2 plies in the side wall, just like it says on the tire. It's listed as 4 ply for the tread, which would make it a 6 ply tire, and if the "ply rating" was simply the load range and not the literal number of plies, it would be a load range C tire instead of a load range D. Additionally it lists the number of plies and what each are made up of. (And since I know that the claim of a 2 ply sidewall is true, I have no reason to doubt the 4 ply claim. ;) )

The tire's internal structure includes twin steel belts (some sizes reinforced with nylon) on top of a two-ply polyester cord body to combine strength and durability with a quiet ride.

My understanding is that some tires will give a "ply rating" in place of or in addition to the load rating, but when the tires give the actual ply number, that's the actual number of plies.

It's probably something that's not standardized, and load rating is probably a better guide. (Or counting the number of plies yourself. :lol: )
 
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Yep, it sounds like you're right. I thought I had read something like that before.
 
Hey Ebag, any updates on these tires after another year? I'm thinking of moving up to 315s and I'm leaning towards the Grabbers or the Duratracs.
 
Hey Ebag, any updates on these tires after another year? I'm thinking of moving up to 315s and I'm leaning towards the Grabbers or the Duratracs.

Well, got another 3 months to go before it's "another year," but I was just thinking about this.

Still happy with them. They're holding up incredibly well, I have no doubt I'll get 50k out of them easy....as long as I can avoid any tree trunks! :lol:

Tread depth is basically the same between all five tires (3 almost two year old ones, 1 one year old one, and 1 brand new one). Haven't measured it exactly but visually I can't tell the difference.

Tread compound is still soft as well. The Toyo M/T's that I had on there before (that went to the :princess: truck, and which we've now successfully ditched) grew harder over time until it was essentially as hard as a rock. The tread on the Grabbers is still quite pliable, and I can easily dent it with a fingernail.

All in all I'd still recommend them, though the new Treadwrights have caught my eye.... :hhmm:
 
Hmm, Grabbers @ $875 vs Duratracs @ $1080 (315s, price for 5 from Tirerack). Decisions, decisions...
 

I would, actually, if these came with a 16.5" rim or Treadwright offered 37's in a 16" rim....

Can't justify the expense of buying new rims.


Hmm, Grabbers @ $875 vs Duratracs @ $1080 (315s, price for 5 from Tirerack). Decisions, decisions...

See, I had a hard cap of $1k. So the Grabbers were just under $1k shipped, mounted, and balanced for 5. I couldn't find anything else for that.

Pros and Cons for the Duratracs....

Pros:
More aggressive tread
Spend $996 and get a $20 mail in rebate :rolleyes:
1/32" deeper tread

Cons:
E range
Slightly smaller tire (.2")
Zero treadlife warranty
Far less miles by reviewers (only 400k)
Quite a bit more expensive
 

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