Emergency brake handle swap. (1 Viewer)

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2ndGenToyotaFan

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From 79 to 95 there were 3 E brake handles that I know of, the early handles were fixed to the brake handle shaft and worked great as long as you didn't bump them out of the locked position while on a hill etc.

In '85 the "Pull and Turn" handles showed up and while they did work alright I never liked the feel of them. Safety was good, very hard to knock the brake off on accident.

With the body changes in 89 and 90 the "Press button and turn" handles showed up and in my opinion brought the best of both function and safety to the table because once pressed the button locked the handle to the shaft without a chance of it slipping out like the pull and turn.

So what I'm getting at is if you like the press button handles and don't like the pull and turn handles like I do, there is hope! Unfortunately you can't just swap the whole mechanism, or just the shaft and handle, which would be faster and easier. The solution is to swap just the handle ends.

Step 1 is to find a press button handle, I like junk yards but I'm sure you could find one on Ebay as well... All 89-95 Trucks and 90-95 4Runners should have this handle.

Step 2, remove the pull and turn handle from your 85-88/9 Toyota. To do this you first need to remove the e brake light switch from under the dash and the base of the brake handle. Next under the hood remove the small pulley housing bolted onto the firewall below the brake booster. Next you slide the brake handle all the way forward by holding the 2 pawls just behind the front E brake handle mount in the forward position. You will know that you have the handle all the way forward when the tab that sticks out from the shaft is touching where the brake switch mounts. (Clear as Mud I know, I'll get some pics later...)

Once the handle is forward, go back to the engine bay and pull the cable end out of the end of the shaft, remove or at least loosen the lower dash plastic, and remove the handle assembly.

Now you have 2 handles, and I have pictures... Turn your pull and turn handle from this:

DSC08090.JPG


Into this:

DSC08091.JPG


Then turn it into this:

DSC08097.JPG


And this:

DSC08094.JPG


I find the die grinder is the easiest way to get that done. Cut the handle off, and remove the spring and the pin holding the cam adapter on the end of the shaft, and clean the shaft up with some sand paper. You will need to use the pin in the next phase, but first you will need to shorten it to an approximate length of 0.6 inches. I used vice grips and a grinder, clean up the pin if it has rough edges from grinding.

Next remove the pin from the Button handle:

DSC08092.JPG


This pic shows the handle removed from the shaft, don't do that yet, just pound out the pin and then pound in your shortened 0.6 inch pin. You want it to be centered in the new handle so that it removes this ring when you pull the handle out (there is a spring and plastic foot behind that ring, so be careful when removing):

DSC08098.JPG


With that ring out of the new handle you can remove the short pin and throw it away with the rest of the pull and turn handle pieces. You need to drill out the center of the ring, I used a 15/32 drill bit, and had to wallow it out a little bit to get it to fit onto the brake shaft.

DSC08100.JPG


Now we need to drill a new hole in the end of your brake shaft. I used a 3/16 bit and again had to wallow it out some to get it to fit the pin for the brake handle. The hole that is already in the handle is the perfect size and the perfect distance from the end of the shaft, too bad it's 90* off.... So drill a new hole like this (A drill press is highly recommended as well as a vice to hold the shaft):

DSC08102.JPG


With the hole in the shaft and the ring re sized it's time to reassemble. Start with the ring, put it back into the handle, the spring will now fit through the ring since you drilled it out.

DSC08104.JPG


Align the ring with something, and slide the spring back in before you slide the handle onto the shaft.

DSC08106.JPG


Double check that you have the handle on correctly, this dimple on the handle should be down, the bracket on the E brake assembly should be up, and the writing should be up side right. etc.

DSC08108.JPG


With a little luck it should all go back together like this:

DSC08112.JPG


Yes, I was bored today, and yes I like the uniqueness of modding late model parts to fit my old trucks. I hope you do as well! :cheers:
 
*and yet he still forget's to put his own thread topic actually into the FAQ's? :flipoff2::ban:

Great write up Jerod!
 
Great write up Jerod. I'm having e-brake trouble on 85 4Runner (the one that I've recently entrusted to my 16 yo :rolleyes:). At first the brake wasn't holding so I tightened the linkage under the passenger side door and now I think he has managed to sheer off something inside the handle because the handle will spin now. I need to take it apart and see if that's it.
 
I so want to do this swap. How similar are the bolt-patterns on the different assemblies? I'm hoping to swap in the whole unit when I replace the...erm... bailing wire holding my cable together:hillbilly:.
 
Step 2, remove the pull and turn handle from your 85-88/9 Toyota. To do this you first need to remove the e brake light switch from under the dash and the base of the brake handle. Next under the hood remove the small pulley housing bolted onto the firewall below the brake booster. Next you slide the brake handle all the way forward by holding the 2 pawls just behind the front E brake handle mount in the forward position. You will know that you have the handle all the way forward when the tab that sticks out from the shaft is touching where the brake switch mounts. (Clear as Mud I know, I'll get some pics later...)

Once the handle is forward, go back to the engine bay and pull the cable end out of the end of the shaft, remove or at least loosen the lower dash plastic, and remove the handle assembly.

Jerod, I need some clarification. My emergency cable will not move in either direction and I have no idea why so I have ordered a new one. I went ahead and ordered a new pulley as well.

I'm not sure how to remove the old cable. I pulled the pulley housing and I can see the end of the cable in the handle but it needs to come further into the firewall about 1/4" in order for me to be able to remove it. I then tried to remove the handle from the inside but realized that wasn't going to do the trick unless I cut the old cable as there is only a couple of inches slack.

Do I just need to remove the emergency brake light switch to allow the handle to go further forward? It sounds like that is the case from your write-up but I wanted to check before I tried it.

Thanks!
 
Yes, you have to remove the brake light switch, and as you slide it forward you have to hold the 2 "pawls" on top of the handle housing right behind the dash plastic, so it slides as far forward as it can. I hope that's clearer... :cheers:
 
I so want to do this swap. How similar are the bolt-patterns on the different assemblies? I'm hoping to swap in the whole unit when I replace the...erm... bailing wire holding my cable together:hillbilly:.

They are completely different... The early handles go through the firewall, and the later handles stay inside and the cable goes down through the floor next to the gas pedal... You could probably make it work, but would need the cable and handle from a later truck, and I'm sure it would take longer than just swapping the handle ends... :cheers:
 
They are completely different... The early handles go through the firewall, and the later handles stay inside and the cable goes down through the floor next to the gas pedal... You could probably make it work, but would need the cable and handle from a later truck, and I'm sure it would take longer than just swapping the handle ends... :cheers:

that's what I was thinking. The trick would be to mount up the bracket, from there, retaining my stock pulley assembly on the firewall would just track the cable through the stock course, I don't know if that makes sense, it all seems clear in me 'ead!
 
yeah, the trick will be finding one.
 
Yes, you have to remove the brake light switch, and as you slide it forward you have to hold the 2 "pawls" on top of the handle housing right behind the dash plastic, so it slides as far forward as it can. I hope that's clearer... :cheers:

Thanks for the tip. It didn't take long to get it changed. I was thinking afterwards though that if you hadn't told me that I would probably still be out there scratching my head.

I did have to take the lower dash back off and drop the handle in order to find the pawls. Now that I know how they work it would have been pretty easy to drop the brake light switch and push the handle forward. Of course that's always the case with hindsight.
 
P-n-P score

I've been inspired by Jerod's swap here to pursue my own. Here goes:

I scored one of these complete assemblies from a T100 at Pick-n-Pull today
and I have time to just begin the basic disassembly of the unit, and tomorrow morning, I'll finish it.

S6300388.jpg

Here it is ready for working.

My plan is:
The shaft is identical to the current e-brake shaft in The Mule, it's the same diameter and length, and the increments are identical on either one as well. This is good, because I really don't feel like trying to work the slider assembly over to fit my older truck. This will be a simple 1-2 punch: disconnect cable, extract shaft, insert shaft, reconnect cable.

I first tried to remove the parking brake light-trigger tab with my lineman's pliers, but nothing came of it.

S6300389.jpg


Deciding I needed a better angle to drive it out from behind, I cut the slide assembly in half with a hacksaw.
S6300390.jpg


It turned out useless, as I still broke the tab, just like last time, so I drilled out the hole with the intent of finding a similar piece, or, as I did before, instering a machine screw in there.
S6300395.jpg

The Machine screw worked for a last-minute fix, but the head makes it a little specific for the switch, and it's a bit hoak, so I'll see what my hardware store has to offer.

From there, I sprayed the shaft down with carb cleaner to free up the gunk, then hit it with steel-wool, and a polish coat of chainsaw chain oil on a shop rag.
here it is clean, and smoother than glass:
S6300393.jpg

That's all for today, I'll finish up tomorrow.
 
That brake switch tab is why I opted to just swap the handle... :cheers: Looking forward to more pics!

I'm beginning to see why. I managed to rebooger it back into that hole I drilled with a hammer and some solder, but I don't know how long it'll last.

Anywho, here goes phase 2:

so, one reason why I waited is: my exhaust manifold was still hot from the drive home, and guess where my hand will be while kerjiggering with the back side of this? Right by the heat riser.

Yes, "kerjiggering" is a technical term.

So anyway, with my cool manifold, I reached over and removed the nuts holding the pulley in place.
S6300397.jpg


The worked the bracket loose, disconnected the switch, and dropped the assembly. The picture's really blurry, but you can just see the machine screw... Like I said earlier. Booty fab, but not as bad as a Bic pen for a fuel filter.

S6300399.jpg


Then pulled the old handle shaft from the old assembly.
S6300402.jpg


and the new shaft in the assembly:
S6300403.jpg


And everybody rekerjiggered:
S6300404.jpg


I needed to adjust my parking brake a bit for the right tension, and ended up dropping my lineman's pilers on my face.
Everything came together fine, and the inaugural first hill park was a success, uphill and downhill.
 
The picture's really blurry, but you can just see the machine screw... Like I said earlier. Booty fab, but not as bad as a Bic pen for a fuel filter.

any chance you could use one of these for the switch?

ea5cab54-3112-4d37-831d-871b3adba675_300.jpg


It's just a common cabinet shelf support peg, available at most hardware or big box home improvement stores. If the round diameter is too small you could probably get away with roughing it up and using some JBWeld to glue it in place
 

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