just another average '70 40 build (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 5, 2010
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So a couple of months ago my buddy (a fellow mud member) calls me up to tell me he has found a great cruiser and I should buy it. I wasn't really looking and he had done this to me a couple of times before over the past year. I guess he had softened me up a little because for some reason I told him to jump on this one for me. It was a 1970, relatively straight and most importantly "rust free". It was somebody else's V8 swap project before the current seller bought it to cannibalize sheet metal for his '62. It sounded like a decent machine and I ended up getting it for $1400. It's interesting what a little spur of the moment decision can lead to.

It took about 2 weeks before my friend and I could find time to head out and pick it up. Only then did we realize that the rig was over 1000 miles away! It seems both the seller (also a mud member) and my friend were both playing the craigslist game with my friend using a site to search for cruisers within a 500 mile radius and the seller posting to every conceivable craigslist area he figured a buyer might be willing to drive from. I'm in St. George Utah and the cruiser was in Roseburg Oregon. We added a stop in Boise to visit family and get some rest and 2.5 days and 2300+ miles later I had my project.

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Hooking up for the flat tow home (not me in the photo). This is how it must have sat for a couple of years based on how deep the tires had sunk into the dirt. Gotta love those stripes.

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Yeah, that's not the right place for an engine, I know. Because we were flat towing it home we had to get a little creative with how we packed everything up.

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Stance sits a little funky with the engine in the cab. The mismatched wheels are actually two halves of matching sets. The other wheels are in the engine bay. Uncut fenders by the way.

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I think in total I ended up with one full cruiser -- 80% of what I need to complete this one and another 20% of duplicate or not applicable parts. Hopefully I can sell some of this stuff off and offset the cost of the project, which, when you include the cost of gas to go get it, is adding up fast.

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It turns out the cruiser basically was "rust free". Sure, every cruiser has a medium thick coat of surface rust everywhere (don't they?), but under the gas tank was the only place I could find that had actually rusted through.

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Don't worry though, I won't be getting off too easy. There are dents all over the place on this thing. This is my first real body work project and I guess we'll see how good I do when it's all finished.

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Here's another dent at the rear quarter panel.

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I've got to say thanks to my buddy for all his help so far. Initially the cruiser was even parked at his place for a lot of the teardown.

What you see in the background is only about half of the cruisers that he owned at the time. Fortunately for me he had a few parts I could scavenge to get me closer to 100% complete. Hopefully I can return the favor (when I know better what I have left over).

Nothing really out of the ordinary to report about the teardown process. I broke about 50% of the bolts trying to get them out (which is actually preferrable if it's just a nut on the other side). I got pretty sick of drilling out and tapping the rest, though. I've since had more time to see what damage the PO's have done I can see that it's not over yet.

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Here's a pic during the teardown process.

Certainly the most interesting thing to happen so far has been dropping an angle grinder on my foot. I was trying to scavenge a steering box mount off of a mostly parted out frame and working around some brake lines I lost my grip somehow. The grinder fell and bounced right off my sandalled foot. It wasn't untill several seconds lateer that I thought "that was a spinning angle grinder that just bounced off my foot, I ought to check that out". Sure enough, got me. Let that be a lesson to you -- always wear the proper protection. It took 8 stitches to fix me up again and now I have a big black scar across the top of my foot. Or, as I like to say, "I have cruiser in my blood" (because I'm pretty sure come of the stuff that's causing my scar to be black is actually landcruiser).

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I found a decent set of 4 BFG Muds on craigslist. They were listed as 33x9.5x15's but ended up being 10.5's. A little additional persistence turned up a 5th. That makes 3 sets tires and wheels now.

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I like the angle of this shot. New shoes on. Firewall is the final color. I'll be painting it myself using the Ace Hardware Rust Stop tintable paint. The color is custom, but basically just a medium grey. I'm hoping for a more modern version of what might have been a factory color and not for "that looks like primer".

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Here it is with the engine in, ready to come home.

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Home at last. My garage looks like someone lit a bomb off in the cruiser and parts got scattered everywhere. There will be no parking in the garage for a while. I live in an HOA so I can't even leave the cruiser in the driveway overnight, much less make a mess of the yard. I guess this is kind of a stealth build.

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I do pull it out on the good days for some sun.

I've straightened out the dents and done most of the welding I plan to do. I've re-caulked the drip rail, fabricated some new door limiter mounts, put on some lift shackles, refreshed tons of parts that aren't installed yet and am about halfway through stripping off that hideous yellow repaint with rattle can stripes. The original color looks to have been seafoam green. I've decided against installing the 4 speed in favor of keeping the 3 on the tree (it came with both transmissions). I've also got a factory PTO on the 3 speed that I won't be using. Anyway, here's a couple more pics of my progress.

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And the reason I'm doing all this? Because I can't wait to take this little guy out in it.

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I'm shooting for Christmas. I've still got a ways to go and it's going to take a lot of work, especially with the days being so short. Heck, I don't even know if the motor I have will run yet. I think I have most the critical parts accumulated to get it on the road now, which is good. I can't wait to see what it will look like painted. Not to mention get it on the trail.

Sorry for the long post, but hey, at least I included pictures.
 
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I think the '70 is one of the nicer ones out there. The all amber lenses in the front, the discrete lights in the back, the three on the tree... its as technologically advanced as I want my FJ40. Sorry, if I offend anyone, but other than getting an F 1.5 engine, I really wouldn't mess with it.

Oh, as to "Rust Free", that word should be banned, why do people lie? Surface rust is RUST! And its a pain to remove!
 
The motor it came with is a 2F. It had a Rochester carb installed but I have since located an Aisan. The carb has a grundle of smog stuff attached to it that I'm going to have to sort through as the motor itself was desmogged already. Anybody have some decent pics of a desmogged Aisan carb? That seems like the easiest way to figure out what stays and what goes. I'm a visual learner.

Some other things I like about the '70 are the skinny steering column with the ignition on the dash, the split bench seats, the long jump seats and the older style bezel. I'm not too keen on the hood spear, at least for my rig. Basically what I'm trying to do is to clean it up and get it back on the road. Minor lift and reasonable sized tires, but nothing extreme. This will be more of a trail rig than an all out crawler. At least for now...
 
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That's great! My little guy has been "helping" with mine, which usually means banging on some freshly-painted part with a 17mm wrench.
 
He's 4 and while I try to get the brunt of the work done with him out of the way it's a blast to watch him crawl around the cab and explore. It's like a big fort to him right now. Hopefully when it's complete it won't be so loud and bouncy that he doesn't enjoy it. You never know at 4.

The day I took those pictures he was signing his name all over the inside of the cab -- kind of like he's staked his claim on it already.
 
That's great! My little guy has been "helping" with mine, which usually means banging on some freshly-painted part with a 17mm wrench.

I know that one... my daughter bangs every wrench she can on the new paint.

He's 4 and while I try to get the brunt of the work done with him out of the way it's a blast to watch him crawl around the cab and explore. It's like a big fort to him right now. Hopefully when it's complete it won't be so loud and bouncy that he doesn't enjoy it. You never know at 4.

The day I took those pictures he was signing his name all over the inside of the cab -- kind of like he's staked his claim on it already.

If he's like my young kids, you'll have trouble getting them to ride in any other car. My son(4) and daughter(almost 2) have always loved it (dual exhaust 350 and all).:cheers:
 
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Today was a glorious day, not only was the weather perfect, but I got to spend a little time working on the cruiser. It's coming along.

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I'm realizing now that I made a stupid decision. A while back my 40 had received a repaint, and not a very good one at that. There is evidence of a decent collision in the front right corner, which is probably what led to the repaint. Anyhow, when I got the cruiser the top layer of paint was flaking badly. Not only that, but it was faded, an ugly color of yellow, and had a rattle can and 1" masking tape stripe job that needed to go. (I'd really like to put some sort of stripes on it when I'm done, in a lighter shade of grey. Something that won't look funky with the top and doors off. Any suggestions?) Well, knowing how much of a pain a chemical stripper can be with the tub still on the frame and not wanting to have to redo all the bodywork around the collision area (which was still in pretty good shape), I decided it would be a good idea to just scrape off the repaint. The factory paint was still sticking really well and I've typically had better luck getting new paint to stick to old paint better than I have to bare metal, so I figured this was the best way. I know now that this is the virtual equivalent of trying to color the entire landcruiser using a ball point pen. This is the reason in the pictures the 40 is slowly changing from yellow to seafoam green. I'm better than 2/3rds done now and I'm going to finish, but I really want to get on to paint and bodywork soon.

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I found a little bit more rust today under the weatherstripping on the bottoms of the doors. Nothing all the way through, not even the first layer of steel, just bubbling up. I'm amazed at the amount of rust some of you guys are willing to repair and I know I'm lucky to have had to deal with so little.

This is the coolest thing I've worked on today. Any guesses what it is?

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Here's another angle.

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Okay, maybe it wasn't all that hard to guess. Here's a couple pictures of it in use. I don't really even know what to call it. I'd like to say it is a hard top rack, but that term is already taken. Hard top stand doesn't make much sense either, seing as how it has wheels. The best thing I can come up with is hard top cart, even if it is a little short for being called a cart.

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I originally doodled it up in CAD after taking a guess at where I thought the CG of the top would be. It turns out my CAD sketches were a little harder for me to follow than I planned for. They were just blocky sketches and unfortunately a couple of the parts got rotated wrong and glued into place before I could catch my mistakes. Luckily I was able to modify them still and make it work. It's not quite perfect yet, but I'm really happy with it so far. With the top on the cart and in the garage I should still be able to park behind it and only take up one space. That's good, because if I had to go the roof hoist route, with my low garage ceiling, I would have been doing a lot of ducking.

A couple of tips if any of you are thinking about making your own:

I guessed at the CG as being 3 feet forward and 18" up from the back edge of the hard top. Evidently the fiberglass cap weighs more than I thought because the CG is much closer to the drip rail.

Get your casters as far back as possible. I'll need to move mine. With the rear casters spun forwards the cart is a little less stable than I would like. Right now I have a couple bags of salt weighing down the front of the cart to compensate. And you'll want a way to strap the top to the cart, just in case.

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Make sure 2 of the casters have locks. The casters I used were ones that I had lying around and didn't. Even the slightest driveway slope sends the cart rolling.

Lastly, Measure the height of your garage opening. I got lucky, but just barely. I can still roll the cart in and out of the garage with the top on it, but another inch or so taller and I couldn't.

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Alright, enough posting, I'm going back out there to scrape some more paint.
 
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Can I borrow that cart when you're done with it?

That is :cool:

I want to take some time with the hardtop on the karma cruiser after I fix the engine [I've got 3 other cruisers to tool around in] and that cart would be real useful.

Could even trade you something for the rental!

:grinpimp:

Thinking back to my kids playing with the 40's in the backyard, I'd like to make a suggestion. Now would be a PERFECT opportunity to order a rollcage, and tell the wife it'll do double duty as a jungle gym for the little ones.;)

[worked for me!]

Best

Mark A.
 
Cool thread. Thanks for sharing your progress. I think that thing you made is called a dolly.
 
Very cool :cool:

I may just have to steal your design :D that is if I ever take the top off again. For the first time in 20+ years it has all the seals around the bottom, I don't know if it will come off in one piece.:hmm:
 
A dolly! And just when I was getting used to calling it a cart...

The cart wasn't that hard to build. I did most of the measuring on the spot. The stuff I thought I had worked out in CAD beforehand I screwed up on, so that ended up being done without any real plans as well. The hardest part was getting the curves to match the sides of the hardtop, but I just used some cardboard and masking tape to make a template. Look at the pictures and it should be pretty easy to copy if you want to make your own. I think shipping to and from so cal wouldn't be worth it so you. Apart from the casters (which I had already) the cost was next to nothing. I used (2) 8' 2x10's, a 2x8 and 2x4, a couple of 1/4-20 t-nuts and bolts, two eye screws, casters and a cheapo welcome mat for the pads.

As for the roll cage, I'm already formulating how I'm going to do mine. It should be pretty sweet. I'll be going the family cage route, but I don't want to say much more than that for now. I have another friend with a really nice hydraulic bender at his shop that he has offered to let me use so I can get a little creative. I'm focused first on getting the the cruiser road-worthy.
 
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Well I'm still plugging away at this massive project. In some ways I wish I had just slapped a quick coat of Rustoleum on and gotten it back on the road as easily as possible. Unfortunately I'm somewhat anal retentive and couldn't let myself do that. I'm know I'm going to be way happier having taken the time to do things right, right?

Lately I've been spending a good chunk of time working on the seats getting them ready to be recovered. The jumpseat frames I had were pretty rough and required a fair amount of welding. The front bench frame was better, but still had that awful peeling yellow paint on it. A while back I ordered some seat covers from Cruiser Corps in black vinyl (instead of the typical charcoal grey) and I've been itching to get them installed.

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Found some rust in parts of the front bench. I also found a huge black widow spider living in it as well.

One of the most frustrating things about this build has been trying to find a decent silver paint. The grey I'm going with is too close to the stock pewter, so I've been looking for something lighter and less yellow. I think I've bought 5 different rattle cans of varying silvers. Why is it that silver paint out of a can either looks like tinfoil or like clearcoat with a metalflake in it. For the life of me I can't find a silver paint that has both opacity and sparkle. Any suggestions? I'm about ready to paint the seat frames light grey and shoot a layer of clearcoat/sparkle "silver" over that. For now, though, I've got a coat of aluminum foil "silver" drying on the frames while I decide.

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Sadly, I found some more rust in the lip of the hard top. It's not in an easy place to patch. I'd really love to just Bondo over the holes and forget about it, but once again my anal retentiveness forces me to make it right.

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I wish the rust wasn't on the edge of a curve. Flat patches are easy, compound curve patches are quite a bit more tricky.

I'm finally starting to see the light at the end of the paint scraping tunnel. We put some of the front end back on so I can finish straightening everything start doing some body work. Woohoo. Maybe I'll get to start painting in a week or two.

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That's me, proud FJ40 owner.

So here's a question: have any of you filled in the seam in your split hood instead of putting the hood spear back in?
 
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Not meaning to be critical, but there is nothing “average” about FJ40 builds.
They are as UNIQUE as their owners. And all FJ40 Land Cruiser owners are a unique breed.

:)

Merry Christmas everyone!
 
Sadly, I found some more rust in the lip of the hard top. It's not in an easy place to patch. I'd really love to just Bondo over the holes and forget about it, but once again my anal retentiveness forces me to make it right.

So here's a question: have any of you filled in the seam in your split hood instead of putting the hood spear back in?

Sometimes we get lucky and rust is easy to repair, and other times we don't. I feel your pain. (bondo would just crack out and you'd be redoing it in a month)

I considered just filling the seam. You might even be able to just fill it... I hate filler myself, I'd rather just have the split.

Those spears are very hard to come by. There are aluminum reproduction ones available, but the original ones aren't available. I'm debating on what I'll do with my split hood, for now it doesn't have anything on it.

Merry Christmas.:D
 
I've got a great hood spear (okay, straight and good chrome, but I twisted off two of the studs removing it), I just don't like them. I've already filled the seam with epoxy and will bondo over that to smooth it up so I guess it's already too late to not fill it in, I was just curious what others' opinions were on doing so. Hood spear will be for sale eventually to help offset the growing cost of this project.
 

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