ford tourus fan (1 Viewer)

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Jan 29, 2005
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virginia beach, va
i got the fan and thats it. i heard that it draws something crazy like 80 amps. what else do i need to hook this thing up? i was thinking getting big relays and running toggle switchs, one for hi and one for low. thanks
 
I've had pretty good luck running the big Bosch relays found under the hoods of most cars. Use the ones with big honkin' wires coming out of the switched side.

I run a three position switch.

Up is High with a 195 radiator mounted turn on. It's the default position.

Middle is High with the block mounted 220 turn on. I had it for an off position, but found that I forget it's off. The stock GM switch is high enough that if I switch it to the middle position it is off unless I forget too long, then the 220 switch saves me:doh:. I use that position for fording.

Down is constant on low speed. If it's really hot I leave it there. I have had the stock harness melt running it all day, though.
 
Much has been discussed in the past.. do some searching

From my own Taurus fan, ive found that
It fits the Radiator almost Perfect..
It usualy only needs to be run on Low, High is only needed on hot days running it hard.
Bosh 40 amp relays from VW's have worked fine.. ive got 1 for low, and 2 running parallel for high (have been told that it shortens the life of the relays, but its been working for me fine)

use large guage wire and a fusable link right off the battery, and i put a 3 way switch in from www.4x4mods.com


low is down, hight is up, and center is off..
 
couple of thoughts...I DIDN"T have good luck with the taurus fan. I"m assuming you are running a 350 or some V8 if you are wanting to use it.

#1 make sure your alternator is up to snuff or large enough. Everytime my taurus fan would kick on, it would mess up my TBI and the rig would run horrible nearly dieing. I would also overheat on the highway, as soon as the fan kicked on, my heat went up. I dunno if thats because the electrical spike cause issues and made me go lean or not.

When I had a carb, I would run hot on hot days with the taurus fan as well. Not sure if it was creating a wind block or not, but it would run hot.

I just put a 18" chevy clutch fan on it last night, and so far in town it runs cooler than it did with the taurus fan, and I haven't even put a shroud on it. I have got to test the highway yet, but it definitely pulls more air than the taurus fuan.
 
Yeah Cam, Do a write up on this so we can all learn........
 
Taurus fans are fairly easy.

Here is a wiring diagram.

You really should use some heavy duty relays. Some people have good luck with the lower grade units but others do not. I have a place that will supply 70 amp relays for a bit over $10.00 per.
series-relay-fan-control.JPG
 
Taurus fans are fairly easy.

Here is a wiring diagram.

You really should use some heavy duty relays. Some people have good luck with the lower grade units but others do not. I have a place that will supply 70 amp relays for a bit over $10.00 per.

Can you give me an example of what you're using as a temp switch? Is it powered itself to actuate the relay?
 
I use an adjustable temp sender for my main switch and a stock GM fan switch for the back up. The stock switch turns on way too high for most folks.

The switches ground the relays. They are thermistors. They have high resistance when cold and low resistance when hot.
 
Good wiring circuit for high amp fans (MarkVIII, Contour, Taurus...): http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/MarkVIII_Fan.htm

Is this going in your FJ-62? Does the Taurus fan fit a '62? The Contour dual fans fits perfectly... see this thread (pics from my install starting on post 14).

I also really like the Delta Current Control controllers. Easy hook up, variable speed. The 35 amp version will handle the Ford fans and the slow (controlled) ramp up means your electrical system and fan relays don't get hit with a 100 amp spike every time the fan turns on.

I've been running the Contour/DCC controller/Ron Davis radiator combo this summer with no problems.
 
Something like the adjustable hayden temp switch

Adj. Fan Thermostat, Auto Zone, Imperial Automotive Products (Hayden) p/n:226203

They cost like $17.00 or so..

They are not powered, they work as grounds.. That is what the power lead is for at spot 86..

There are other switches out there that thread in. But if you do not have the room, this is a nice option..
 
Personaly, I will never use the DCC controller.

Great product. But the service is spotty at best.

If you buy one, good luck to you.
 
i just have mine hard wired to the battery and then through some toggles. then from the toggles to some relays then to the fan, i like the simple the better approach that way i can single out problems easier and faster, it is true you may never use hi speed.

i could do a write up i suppose, may b
 
Something like the adjustable hayden temp switch

Adj. Fan Thermostat, Auto Zone, Imperial Automotive Products (Hayden) p/n:226203

They cost like $17.00 or so..

They are not powered, they work as grounds.. That is what the power lead is for at spot 86..

There are other switches out there that thread in. But if you do not have the room, this is a nice option..

It doesn't seem to be available from Autozone anymore as far as their website shows? Do you have another source or an equivalent product?
I got my fan mounted to the radiator but am still tracking down how I'll power it. I'll at least wire it in with a relay temporarily. I'm interested in the DCcontrols considering all the good reviews and isn't much more than the Spal once you factor in the cost of the temp sensor.
 
the relay that can handle this and solve all your problems is part number ss74 available in 2 days at advance auto parts... its not a starter solenoid its continuous duty
 
oh if i were you i'd get that relay (20$) and a screw in type thermostat that goes in the head/water outlet from summit for (20$) and this in my opinion a much more solid way to do this and the longevity it way better then the finicky kits from corp. auto stores...
 
I had a temp switch on mine, and then removed it because it became unusable after getting it wet.

I run it on low most of the time, and on high when the temo rises. The key is to get the shroud to completely cover the radiator. If you leave any gaps you'll heat up.
 

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