Yet another LSPV/ABS delete how to... (10 Viewers)

[lumbee1]

Has anyone deleted the ABS but left the LSPV in place? Mine seems in decent shape, truck only has 90K on it (though I admit miles might not be the issue), not leaks, etc.

If you vehicle is stock height, you might consider leaving it. However any lift will cause the LSPV to be out of spec and reduce the rear braking power. Most experience issues with the LSPV eventually.

To improve braking on an 80 series in this order:
More aggressive pads like EBC green stuff
Remove LSPV to get full power to the rear at all times
Remove ABS pump to simplify solution
Install big brake kit.

Optional: install stainless brake lines for improved feel

I've deleted the LSPV and ABS pump and I'm happy. I still need to adjust free play of the brake pedal.

 

[Jeff Elliott]

Thanks @lumbee1 - yea I'm lifted ~3" so will go ahead and delete the LSPV. I already have the upgraded pads and rotors and have the stainless lines I'm going to install when I delete the abs module. I take it you didn't do a proportioning valve? I'm on 35's, running two swing outs on a 4x4 labs bumper with drawer storage in the rear if that makes a difference.

 

[YukonCruisers]

This may be a dumb question, but I am curious. With the delete, the front port of the MC goes to the left front, and the rear port gets split between the RF and the rear line. Does this matter? Is the pressure delivered to both ports equally?
I ask because I have have done the full delete and still have a soft pedal. I thought it might have been my new rear calipers, so unbolted and turned every which way to get air out, but no luck, thinking maybe the MC, so ordered a new one, but that was fine before the swap - so not likely. Did have a leak in the front splitter (nicked it when pulling from the bracket, replaced that), but no signs of fluid anywhere else. Thoughts on where to go next would be appreciated too, thx

 

[Road Apple]

This may be a dumb question, but I am curious. With the delete, the front port of the MC goes to the left front, and the rear port gets split between the RF and the rear line. Does this matter? Is the pressure delivered to both ports equally?
I ask because I have have done the full delete and still have a soft pedal. I thought it might have been my new rear calipers, so unbolted and turned every which way to get air out, but no luck, thinking maybe the MC, so ordered a new one, but that was fine before the swap - so not likely. Did have a leak in the front splitter (nicked it when pulling from the bracket, replaced that), but no signs of fluid anywhere else. Thoughts on where to go next would be appreciated too, thx

If you’re using a non-abs MC, then the front port is for the front brakes and the rear port is for the rear brakes. Many people have soft brake issues with the stock MC, but after upgrading to the T-100 MC, they have solid braking.

 

[YukonCruisers]

Thanks @Road Apple, to bad my new MC is in the mail... But mine is actually worse than before the delete, I have 50% travel with no real brake pressure - so maybe a crap MC, but thinking air somewhere(?)

Will look into the T-100 though

 

[jcardona1]

Thanks @Road Apple, to bad my new MC is in the mail... But mine is actually worse than before the delete, I have 50% travel with no real brake pressure - so maybe a crap MC, but thinking air somewhere(?)

Will look into the T-100 though

Read my post here:

Post in thread 'HOW-TO: 5th Gen 4Runner Brakes on an 80' HOW-TO: 5th Gen 4Runner Brakes on an 80 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-5th-gen-4runner-brakes-on-an-80.1247625/post-13786315

 

[Road Apple]

Thanks @Road Apple, to bad my new MC is in the mail... But mine is actually worse than before the delete, I have 50% travel with no real brake pressure - so maybe a crap MC, but thinking air somewhere(?)

Will look into the T-100 though

^^^This^^^ thread has all the info you need with pictures showing the routing.

You’ll likely want both of these.

Use a T-100 master cylinder
Advios BMT-139

Wilwood Proportioning Valve
260-12627
M10 x 1.0 bubble flare inlet

 

[YukonCruisers]

Thanks guys, I am not sure how it could be the push rod, I never removed the master, but the symptoms do sound very familiar. I ordered the plugs suggested by @jcardona1, I will start there, then put in the replacement MC I already have coming, if still bad, will go for the t100. What a pain, this was going to be an easy job...

 

[jcardona1]

Thanks guys, I am not sure how it could be the push rod, I never removed the master, but the symptoms do sound very familiar. I ordered the plugs suggested by @jcardona1, I will start there, then put in the replacement MC I already have coming, if still bad, will go for the t100. What a pain, this was going to be an easy job...

My vote is air trapped in the system somewhere. The MC will be easy to diagnose once you have the plugs and you could also isolate front & rear ports to test each one individually.

 

[jcardona1]

With the delete, the front port of the MC goes to the left front, and the rear port gets split between the RF and the rear line. Does this matter?

And regarding this - if you're keeping the factory MC, rear port goes to front brakes. Front port goes to rear brakes just like in stock configuration.

Front vs Rear ports on master cylinder?

I deleted ABS and LSPV on my truck several years ago. I'm working on a brake system overhaul and I came across something that's making me doubt my brake line routing. Which port on the MC goes where after ABS delete? I had always assumed the rear/side port near the firewall went to the front...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[lumbee1]

Thanks @lumbee1 - yea I'm lifted ~3" so will go ahead and delete the LSPV. I already have the upgraded pads and rotors and have the stainless lines I'm going to install when I delete the abs module. I take it you didn't do a proportioning valve? I'm on 35's, running two swing outs on a 4x4 labs bumper with drawer storage in the rear if that makes a difference.

After deleting the ABS pump, I installed a proportioning valve.

Our vehicles are almost identical.

 

[lumbee1]

Maybe this will help (maybe not). It is incredibly difficult to photograph three dimensional brake lines. I took these photos for another friend @fourtrax so he could do his own ABS/LSPV delete. Routing the lines is done differently for each person.

I reused the T underneath.
Front passenger line drops straight to the T on the engine side of MC.
Front driver line is bent and routed directly underneath MC to the T (red tape)
Rear line goes up then down to proportioning valve and from valve to the front of the truck. A union then sends it to the rear of the truck.

I didn't cut any lines but I did carefully push and pull lines into place. I purchased a cheap brake line straighener off Amazon. It's better than hands but not a professional tool.

Red is front
Green is rear

 

[misfittoy]

Are you all just leaving the disconnected lower line running to the back attached to the frame? And has anyone attempted to remove the wiring running down to the hub?

Got this all done while waiting for hub parts but figure I can do a bit more. Also debating doing the t100 MC pre-emptively.

 

[TYM4FUN]

You would think that when you guys replace these hard lines under the hood, you would at least make it easy to get the brake booster out in the future.

No foresight around here, I tell ya...

How would you route it? Draw a pic?

 

[Dave 2000]

Do you adjust the compensator when your loaded/unloaded?

regards

Dave

 

[Three oaks 80]

Do you adjust the compensator when your loaded/unloaded?

regards

Dave

Are you talking about the proportional valve? Because I haven't adjusted mine once and I'm starting to think that I didn't really need to put it in.

 

[Dave 2000]

Yes the proportioning valve, how do you compensate for the weight transfer difference moving from an empty car to a fully loaded one?

Regards

Dave

 

[1973Guppie]

I recently removed all abs components from my truck, added a prop valve to the rears. All new ebc pads and rotors, new calipers. Truck stops better than it ever has. Braking is nice and even. For years because of the lspv the rear brakes were never engaging much at all.

 

[Three oaks 80]

Yes the proportioning valve, how do you compensate for the weight transfer difference moving from an empty car to a fully loaded one?

Regards

Dave

Start full open and drive it. If you get the sense that the rear is locking up start to restrict the flow of brake fluid to the rear.

 

[Dave 2000]

I recently removed all abs components from my truck, added a prop valve to the rears. All new ebc pads and rotors, new calipers. Truck stops better than it ever has. Braking is nice and even. For years because of the lspv the rear brakes were never engaging much at all.

Probably out of adjustment? I found once mine was bled after doing the same as your self new brakes all round ect the rear brakes are working well. Having said that I still have all OE ABS system, and approaching 27 years and it still works fine.

regards

Dave