Pull the lamp club
Write-up: Toss the LSPV and install a manual proportioning valve (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter jcardona1
- Start date
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bloc
SILVER Star
You could also just pull the connector(s) at the ABS computer.. then there is nothing to turn the light on in the first place. This would likely be less work than pulling the combination meter to get at the bulb.
Edit: nevermind. Looking at the schematic, you'll have to pull the ABS relay plug(s) as well as the ECU plugs. Should still be less work than pulling the cluster, though.
Edit: nevermind. Looking at the schematic, you'll have to pull the ABS relay plug(s) as well as the ECU plugs. Should still be less work than pulling the cluster, though.
Last edited:
Finally found it! Rockjock82 says "Send 12v to the only pink wire on your ih2 connector. This will turn it off"
alia176
SILVER Star
This thread is convincing me more and more to chuck the ABS and the LSPV all at once. As long as I can retain the cross braking ability (safety), I might follow suit.
If I had known now then I would have yanked it all out much earlier. I had some erratic pulsing on the front DS caliper before and haven't had it since removal. Not a big fan of ABS nor the LSPV and glad they're gone, one less thing to fail at the least opportune time.
Overland Tailor
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I'm a liability type of guy and don't try to do things that place more of it on me. However,, I think that someone could also say that since I've placed a 4.7L V8 in a truck made for an inline 6 that I'm just as liable as removing the ABS..
I'm going to start this process soon and was planning to install the valve just as insurance. Wilwood says all their valves are good to 1200 psi, but this is still way under what you're seeing. Where and how are you measuring 2,000 psi?
From when I got the gauge.
"Got my SSB Brake Gauge and after flushing the old brake fluid I got some numbers.
Not sure how mush you push on the brake pedal so I had my helper push as hard has he could.
Front 2000 PSI
Rear 900 PSI
Thats a 69 31 front to rear ratio.
This is with an unadjusted LSPV and 2.5 Med OME lift.
The gauge works nice but you need a helper. If the gauge had a lock where the pin would lock on the highest pressure like on a compression gauge, you could use the gauge alone"
"Got my SSB Brake Gauge and after flushing the old brake fluid I got some numbers.
Not sure how mush you push on the brake pedal so I had my helper push as hard has he could.
Front 2000 PSI
Rear 900 PSI
Thats a 69 31 front to rear ratio.
This is with an unadjusted LSPV and 2.5 Med OME lift.
The gauge works nice but you need a helper. If the gauge had a lock where the pin would lock on the highest pressure like on a compression gauge, you could use the gauge alone"
alia176
SILVER Star
Yeah, let us know how the brake feels. I'm teetering on the edge....
I'll be joining the club soon as the weather turns. Got a log jammed above the rear axle while at Rausch Creek last weekend, took out the sensor wire in the process.
Deleted both this weekend. No prop valve used. Took ages to bleed all air out but the braking is WAY better
Note:
With no LSPV your rear brakes will lock up sooner than the fronts. Its will make you butt pucker for panic stops on grooved and banked roads. Wet pavement will increase the pucker meter. I recommend you find a vacant road and do some panic stops. Find a road with a strong crown and do some panic stops on both sides of the road so you know how the vehicle will react (spin out) when you panic stop. Mine would spin out like pulling a parking brake when turning, a bit scary. With the adjustable proportioning, the problem is resolved.
With no LSPV your rear brakes will lock up sooner than the fronts. Its will make you butt pucker for panic stops on grooved and banked roads. Wet pavement will increase the pucker meter. I recommend you find a vacant road and do some panic stops. Find a road with a strong crown and do some panic stops on both sides of the road so you know how the vehicle will react (spin out) when you panic stop. Mine would spin out like pulling a parking brake when turning, a bit scary. With the adjustable proportioning, the problem is resolved.
- Thread starter
- #77
I think that's often repeated but isn't always the case. Ever since I did this mod I've left the valve fully open. I've did a few test stops where I SLAM on the brakes with all my weight. I can lock up the tires no problem. But I never felt the rear brakes locked up first. Several others have said the same when running no LSPV at all. My guess is tire size and overall weight may affect each truck differently.
I did this to the rig I sold @thatcabledude in 09. I did it to my current truck over a year ago. I highly recommend it.
RESULTS: By far the BEST most recent modification I have made. Ditch that LSPV and ABS! I would have to say it was the ABS that was causing the soft/spongy pedal. Gravel test: Lock up both F/R at the same time per @Cruzerman. <--Thanks for the help with the two man bleed. I could hardly even get the ABS to go into action on gravel before this. In low, with ABS disarmed, it was a stretch to really skid all four on gravel (Q78 Super Swampers). I approve of this deletion lol. I'll do a concrete jungle test tomorrow with my commute to work.
PS... I did NOT install a PV, just 50/50 from the MS.
