Write-up: Toss the LSPV and install a manual proportioning valve (2 Viewers)

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And in stock form it does exactly what it should, it's just that many of us are at the limit of the brakes capabilities anyway so the LSPV isn't really needed to prevent us from locking up the rears.

Do you mean because of armor/cargo in the rear?
 
it's a slippery slope, I pulled the LSPV and my brakes got better, but still want more, I am going to pull the ABS soon and get a new booster and master when I do. I am tired of crappy brakes.
Obviously you're one of the most knowledgeable posters here--but every time I see these things suggested, visions of courtrooms and lawyers float through my mind. Along with the words, "intentionally disabled a factory safety device."
 
Obviously you're one of the most knowledgeable posters here--but every time I see these things suggested, visions of courtrooms and lawyers float through my mind. Along with the words, "intentionally disabled a factory safety device."
I get the feeling, probably because my sister is a lawyer.
 
Obviously you're one of the most knowledgeable posters here--but every time I see these things suggested, visions of courtrooms and lawyers float through my mind. Along with the words, "intentionally disabled a factory safety device."

The device only generates safety for the driver and occupants of the vehicle. With the LSPV you will plow into the camry in front of you that you may have been able to stop short of if you didn't have it. So pick your poison.
 
The device only generates safety for the driver and occupants of the vehicle. With the LSPV you will plow into the camry in front of you that you may have been able to stop short of if you didn't have it. So pick your poison.
You could be right, but such logic may be a tough sell in court (ATTORNEY: "Oh, so YOU know better than Toyota's engineers? Tell me, where did you get your degree, and how many years of automotive design experience do you have?") and with your insurer (INSURANCE REP: "Sorry, but you violated our TOS, so we're not covering you for this.") :(
 
Obviously you're one of the most knowledgeable posters here--but every time I see these things suggested, visions of courtrooms and lawyers float through my mind. Along with the words, "intentionally disabled a factory safety device."

well I am speaking of my personal vehicle AND most of our vehicles are so modified all that stuff goes out the window as far as I am concerned.
 
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You could be right, but such logic may be a tough sell in court (ATTORNEY: "Oh, so YOU know better than Toyota's engineers? Tell me, where did you get your degree, and how many years of automotive design experience do you have?") and with your insurer (INSURANCE REP: "Sorry, but you violated our TOS, so we're not covering you for this.") :(

yeah but you are playing the game of "what if's" anyhow, people can sue you for almost anything nowadays, I don't know the future and what might happen, I try to deal with the present and the present wants me to have better brakes so I can handle my big fat pig of a landcruiser on the road. :)
 
FYI,
This is the manual prop valve I bought that was basically plug and play.

Forgive my newbness but aren't all prop valves PnP like that one? Or are you referring to the threads already able to accept Toyota metric double flare deals?

I've mentioned this before but all indications are pointing to not needing a manual prop valve due to the weight of our rigs. Wouldn't be easier to get the project going w/o this valve just to see if it's warranted before going through the process of bending pipes and such?
 
Forgive my newbness but aren't all prop valves PnP like that one? Or are you referring to the threads already able to accept Toyota metric double flare deals?

I've mentioned this before but all indications are pointing to not needing a manual prop valve due to the weight of our rigs. Wouldn't be easier to get the project going w/o this valve just to see if it's warranted before going through the process of bending pipes and such?

Meh, I’d rather not bleed brakes twice if I needed to install it after the fact. And I like options. 😁

The direct bolt in kit is only $60 from Flyin Miata.

I’m starting to acquire my parts.

So far I have the Willwood proportioning valve from Flyin Miata.

I also got a sweet PS revisor used on eBay.

Next will be a cooler. I’m looking at the Setrab coolers, they are quality parts I’ve used on past projects.
 
Meh, I’d rather not bleed brakes twice if I needed to install it after the fact. And I like options. 😁

The direct bolt in kit is only $60 from Flyin Miata.

I’m starting to acquire my parts.

So far I have the Willwood proportioning valve from Flyin Miata.

I also got a sweet PS revisor used on eBay.

Next will be a cooler. I’m looking at the Setrab coolers, they are quality parts I’ve used on past projects.

What's a " PS revisor"?
Cooler? What cooler?
:)
 
well I am speaking of my personal vehicle AND most of our vehicles are so modified all that stuff goes out the window as far as I am concerned.

THIS. Whenever I read threads that go pages and pages of hypothetical questions about IF's and THEN's. I look at the signature lines and most of these fellows are pushing their rigs to their limits. With high lifts, larger than factory tires and huge amounts of extra steel weights added beyond "factory".

To this end - Once you add a battering ram to the front, 4-5" of lift and 1000lbs of extra gear/armor - no one is going to look at the portioning valve as "WHY" the civic turned into a coffin.

The same would go for the rest of the brake system. These trucks will age to the point that we won't be able to find "FACTORY" anything and we'll have to cobble things together to cope or move onto another hobby. Reading that discontinued parts thread just makes me sad.
 
What's a " PS revisor"?
Cooler? What cooler?
:)

“PS revisor” = power steering reservoir.

The stock cooler is typically called “the paper clip”. It’s a bent tube that looks like a paper clip. Follow the lines & you’ll see it at the front of your rig.

Obviously a cooler with fins will be much more efficient.

This is the Setrab cooler I’m looking at:
(Generic pic, not sure what size I’ll get yet)
6C83B2AA-00EB-4AE5-A8A9-C37902D17320.jpeg
 
Forgive my newbness but aren't all prop valves PnP like that one? Or are you referring to the threads already able to accept Toyota metric double flare deals?

I've mentioned this before but all indications are pointing to not needing a manual prop valve due to the weight of our rigs. Wouldn't be easier to get the project going w/o this valve just to see if it's warranted before going through the process of bending pipes and such?
I'm referring to its ability to accept the Toyota metric double flare.

In my case I did add it after the fact. I had too much rear bias and locked up the rear coming around a bend and having to get on the brakes.
 
I'm referring to its ability to accept the Toyota metric double flare.

In my case I did add it after the fact. I had too much rear bias and locked up the rear coming around a bend and having to get on the brakes.

Ahh, thank you for the explanation.
 
I've mentioned this before but all indications are pointing to not needing a manual prop valve due to the weight of our rigs. Wouldn't be easier to get the project going w/o this valve just to see if it's warranted before going through the process of bending pipes and such?

I know a lot of people on this board say you don't need a manual proportioning valve after ABS/LSPV delete, but make sure you verify that afterwards. Don't just assume you don't need it. 50/50 was too much rear bias for me. On hard braking, my rear end would lock up first and start to send my ass around. I put a manual prop valve in, adjusted it, and it's much better now.
 
it's a slippery slope, I pulled the LSPV and my brakes got better, but still want more, I am going to pull the ABS soon and get a new booster and master when I do. I am tired of crappy brakes.


Could it be that, there is something wrong, in your system, I know my DD cruiser weighs in a 5700 on 35"s, no ABS working, LVPS still in place, adjusted properly I use after market rotors no slots drilled, with 100 series pads up front and ceramic out back, I did change all of my brake lines and noticed a huge difference, part because my stock ones where old and soft, I have done a complete flush through the system, with a pressure bleeder . Just curious you might have something there that is causing a lack of stopping
 
Could it be that, there is something wrong, in your system, I know my DD cruiser weighs in a 5700 on 35"s, no ABS working, LVPS still in place, adjusted properly I use after market rotors no slots drilled, with 100 series pads up front and ceramic out back, I did change all of my brake lines and noticed a huge difference, part because my stock ones where old and soft, I have done a complete flush through the system, with a pressure bleeder . Just curious you might have something there that is causing a lack of stopping

No, its' all been gone through. It is possible that the ABS unit is getting old and not working as it should. I can still get the abs to engage. Honestly I don't have time to troubleshoot an aging abs unit on my rig. Removing it and enjoying better braking is much easier. Its a no brainer. Time is money.
 
Hey, thanks for the info. Extremely useful. Worked out great. It finally stops. Got rid of 15Lb! of hardware that was not doing much. The truck was converted to part time, so the ABS was not working anyway. I still need to pull that feedback line out. Probably a Dremel wheel job.

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