Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (6 Viewers)

[FJACS]

It is highly unlikely that the piece of loose metal caught in the bearing was pumped through the block via the oil and took out the cam bearing.

If you get the cam bearing out, I think you’ll find the metal is related to the failure of that bearing.

 

[Infinity00]

It looks like a bit of a cast piece of metal

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Side cover off... gotta tell it takes big skills to turn a wrench in a mirror the correct direction. I hate that corner screw behind the alt bracket. No wonder I’ve always recommended folks just pull the bracket. What a chore.
Rocker next.... yada yada.
Haven’t yet tried a magnet to the bits. Will do.

 

[Jaric00n]

She's going to be wrenching while sleeping soon....

Dreaming of 2F's that need rebuilding >.>

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Ooof. Nothing against Craftsman but their magnet sucks compared to this little one my ex left behind from his school supplies. Rocker off, rods and lifters out. Stepping away now.
Tmrw is gonna be 101. Crap.

 

[FJACS]

Good so far. Nice to see it all being kept in order.

All the lifters look good on the bottoms?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Good so far. Nice to see it all being kept in order.

All the lifters look good on the bottoms?

They’re all smooth. I wasn’t expecting that. Somewhere a video I watched showed lifters w/ rollers in them. I pulled them all but didn’t inspect yet. And I had to go for the stronger magnet cuz they were in fairly snug.

 

[FJACS]

It’s a flat tappet style lifter. Not a roller lifter... hence why the proper oil type is important. That interface between the cam and lifter is what all the zinc talk is about. The two surfaces can wear very quickly if they aren’t lubricated properly. The friction can either eat the lobe off the cam, or the lifter gets ground away (imagine the lifter getting shorter) or both.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

It’s a flat tappet style lifter. Not a roller lifter... hence why the proper oil type is important. That interface between the cam and lifter is what all the zinc talk is about. The two surfaces can wear very quickly if they aren’t lubricated properly. The friction can either eat the lobe off the cam, or the lifter gets ground away (imagine the lifter getting shorter) or both.

Yeah I mostly get it. Similar to a main bearing that has spun over the edge of the other.
Ever hear of pining the cam bearings? Interesting old concept.

 

[cps432]

Chuckling to myself... wouldn’t have been too funny if we’d started pulling the shaft and had a lifter and it’s rod drop to the ground. Glad I had the wits to stop and regroup.

I've stopped like 4 times in the last few weeks to regroup... haha! I just don't want to be stuck needing something like always.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Officially made my first tool w/ the welder. Swung by the local welding shop to go over it w/ them first then made it happen. Copied it from a guy on YouTube. Rubber expansion plug, 13mm short socket on the nut w/ a 7/8” socket over that which will accept a 1/2” adaptor for a 24” extension. Dog kong (yup that’s what I said) used as a centering plug in the first journal. Helps too that the bearing which is spun is number 2 and not 3. Every time I laid under the truck I kept mixing up front and rear. Now I know why I still had oil up top.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I still haven’t pulled the camshaft.... Another friend is coming by to help hold my hand while I loosen the engine mounts and tranny crossmember. That’s part has me pretty anxious. Well he came by and got me all flustered because he said I needed rigging to support the engine and have a stable place to push against w/ the bottle jack.

My garage is semi organized and semi chaotic so to grab chunks of wood took me a bit. He explained how I ought to set it up and I told him I’d take it from there. His presence just had me more anxious and feeling a bit incompetent.

But here you all go... this is where I’m at...
@Godwin, the front mounts... I loosen the lower nuts?

 

[Godwin]

I still haven’t pulled the camshaft.... Another friend is coming by to help hold my hand while I loosen the engine mounts and tranny crossmember. That’s part has me pretty anxious. Well he came by and got me all flustered because he said I needed rigging to support the engine and have a stable place to push against w/ the bottle jack.

My garage is semi organized and semi chaotic so to grab chunks of wood took me a bit. He explained how I ought to set it up and I told him I’d take it from there. His presence just had me more anxious and feeling a bit incompetent.

But here you all go... this is where I’m at...
@Godwin, the front mounts... I loosen the lower nuts?

View attachment 1735443

View attachment 1735444

Yes I removed the lower nuts and that was all, then jacked up the engine. I had a block of wood under the oil pan for lifting. Did not touch the transmission crossmember, there's no need. There will be enough flex in the rubber transmission mount that you do not need to loosen the crossmember, at least that's what I recall.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I loosened the top nuts and slightly loosened the transmission crossmember nuts too and I still can’t get it to tip enough for the diz gear to come out straight.

I have to laugh cuz I’m sweating my ass off in the 90 degree late evening squatting to turn the jack handle then stand give a pull and a turn of the shaft, then wipe hands on grubby pants, repeat at least 40 times... then I hear a motorcycle slow down on the street so stood looking down the driveway thinking it was the friend from earlier... till I see its the the sand blaster guy!

He apologized for showing up out of the blue and was literally shocked at how far I’d gotten. “Wow, when you say your in, you really meant it! Most women don’t even know how to change a spark plug!’ Hahaha!
So cam gear just barely clears and then the diz gear causes it to hang up. He tried it too while I stood by biting my lip. I stole a picture while he took a gander.

I’m really apprehensive to stress my s***ty rigging and the oem bottle jack so I’ll just cut the inner valance lip in a crescent and weld it back on later.

The number 2 bearing is already out of the block too. I thought it was stuck tight on the journal until I reached up and it spun like a loose wedding ring.

 

[FJACS]

Remove the valance - don’t cut it

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Remove the valance - don’t cut it

The inner section? It’s attached in a bunch of places. The outer section would be way easier to remove but I don’t think the outer piece will be a problem.

Someone else is saying to put an oil pan on and jack it from there w/ a block of wood. He thinks I’ll get more flex from that point.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

This is what I need to remove... the front crossmember.

 

[FJACS]

Don’t put the pan on - you need the access for bearing install.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Don’t put the pan on - you need the access for bearing install.

Then I either cut a crescent in the front crossmember or figure out how to remove it but I gather I’d need to take the valance off first?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Once I got the shaft out I’d lower the engine and do the bearing install w/ no pan inplace.
I honestly keep thinking of just pulling the gear off the shaft. I took the snap ring off but that woodruff key has it on very snug. I’d have to push the shaft back in and take it off w/ a puller. It would be way easier in some respect.