Woody (12 Viewers)

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As much as you can get without a lot of work - the wires are ok to within about 2" of the split off the main part of the harness. If you are under there, there's also the thermo probe that goes into the cat converter, if you still have it - there's a green plug to the right of the driver's seat under the center console and it pops out of the converter on the forward inboard corner. Not a big deal if it's a hassle or it's already gone, this is way above and beyond already. The rear heater is fine fortunately, the mice had a rave underneath it though. Thank you!!
 
Got up really early to meet @RodrigzCrzr to pick up some of the smog parts that he is donating to the cause - amazing and thank you!! Put them on the rig, drove down to my local smog guy, and here's the (somewhat expected) result:

IMG_1102.jpeg


Hard to read but it is 2x on the CO% at 2500 RPM, with 0% O2. So - ran through the AI tests all over again and everything checks out, including the ABV and ASV with the new VSVs. (Too many acronyms.)

Only two things I can think of - either the check valve at the exhaust pipe is bad, which is preventing air from getting into the mix downstream and not allowing the extra HCs to burn off in the cat (even though HCs are elevated but passing), or the carb is dumping too much gas into the system from the secondary, assuming the secondary is open at that RPM (pretty sure it is). It passed great at idle, where the system directs air to the exhaust ports, so that part is working fine. Maybe the secondary jet is too big? But the carb was fairly untouched when I got it, so...

Anyway - at minimum I'm replacing that second check valve given the 0% O2 at highway speed, and looking for other ideas on the high CO. Guessing the cat is ok given these results, but @Spike Strip may know better.

Also - the smog tech didn't put it on the dyno for the test. I thought that was odd but didn't question it.
 
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Running rich. Incomplete combustion. My guess is you need a CAT and maybe a carb rebuild. Secondary stock Jet is 2.00, unless somebody changed it out along the way, but unlikely. JimC once posted these are supposed to run a little fat for the CAT to work, but that's the old giant brick when they are fresh and full of functioning Platinum, Palladium and Rhodium.

For the Air Injection, could be a frozen downstream check valve. The ACV apparatus may need to come apart to clear out the crap. You wouldn't believe the debris that accumulates in those valves blocking function.

A MUD member has a Magnaflow CARB CAT direct fit on ebay - it's been there a while. Maybe you might be able to work something out....? @ace10

EBAY

I personally would now source a FED version.
 
If you weren’t on the dyno, how can you even be sure that the secondary was involved? It seems totally feasible to me that you could reach 2500 rpm on the primary with no load on the engine.
 
They didn't put mine on the Dyno either, a few months ago... Something may have changed in their procedures. I know CARB and BAR have doubled-down on the stupidity as a middle finger to POTUS
 
Spike Strip said:
Running rich. Incomplete combustion. My guess is you need a CAT and maybe a carb rebuild. Secondary stock Jet is 2.00, unless somebody changed it out along the way, but unlikely. JimC once posted these are supposed to run a little fat for the CAT to work, but that's the old giant brick when they are fresh and full of functioning Platinum, Palladium and Rhodium.

For the Air Injection, could be a frozen downstream check valve. The ACV apparatus may need to come apart to clear out the crap. You wouldn't believe the debris that accumulates in those valves blocking function.

A MUD member has a Magnaflow CARB CAT direct fit on ebay - it's been there a while. Maybe you might be able to work something out....? @ace10

EBAY

I personally would now source a FED version.
Click to expand...
Yep. If I have to go there it's going to be a Fed version. The ASV seems to work ok, but I can pull it apart just to check. Jorge gave me one in case it's needed. I did find an ACDelco 214867 check valve on Rockauto, but if you have another one (sheepish) I'd rather do that.

65swb45 said:
If you weren’t on the dyno, how can you even be sure that the secondary was involved? It seems totally feasible to me that you could reach 2500 rpm on the primary with no load on the engine.
Click to expand...
Can't. And I wonder if that would mean lower HC and CO rather than higher, so results may get worse if it's on the dyno? It was weird tbh, but I went to a different smog tech than my usual guy because his machine wouldn't calibrate. The guy I went to will do a precheck once I make any changes, but it's still a do.

Also didn't mention that it failed the idle / high RPM check on the first go, requiring a "precondition" before running it again to heat up the system. Never saw that before either.
 
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I have more Air Injection check valves, but the Rockauto ones will work fine and the price is right. Just stick a spacer on the nipple, like the dorman nipple caps and cut the end off. LINK

Lemme know.
 
Spike Strip said:
I have more Air Injection check valves, but the Rockauto ones will work fine and the price is right. Just stick a spacer on the nipple, like the dorman nipple caps and cut the end off. LINK

Lemme know.
Click to expand...
I think the threads on the Rockauto ones are wrong - they would need re-threading unless there is one with the right thread pitch?

I pulled the check valve off the exhaust pipe and its blocked up something terrible, like needs to go on a high fiber diet bad. Nightmare to get at too. I can't say that's 100% it but sure af didn't help. Swapping out the one on the 62 for now.
 
Standard AV8 is the correct threads w/ 18mm nipple. (and anything that crosses to the AV8)

Jump on it:

LINK
 
Spike Strip said:
Standard AV8 is the correct threads w/ 18mm nipple. (and anything that crosses to the AV8)

Jump on it:

LINK
Click to expand...
Ordered - will go on the 62 when it gets here. Thanks! The one you sold me is on the 60 now. Total pain but done.

EDIT - ASV is sooty but no big chunks or anything. One less thing to worry about.
 
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Drove it around a bunch last night and it started acting up once I got off the freeway - rough idle and had a couple of instances when it felt like it was hesitating / dying while on the freeway, like fuel was cutting out briefly. Did a little research and seems like this could be the ICS or the computer or ???. Planning to pull the computer this week and reflow some solder on any broken contacts, and then pull the carburetor again to see what's what.

Mostly I want to either burn off or recover the gas I put in it yesterday and try to replicate @Spike Strip 's Prius-like results when I go in for the smog recheck. :)
 
Carb is off the rig and down at Mark's for a spa treatment. Finished a couple minor projects today, first up is the AC compressor idler bearing. This thing was rattling and chattering like the smoke monster from Lost every time I drove it. When I came off the freeway on Saturday night, the thing howled in protest the whole way home. No wonder, it is jammed up bad and feels super gritty and trashed.

IMG_1105.jpeg


Pulled everything apart, cleaned off all the gunk and just as I drove out the old bearing, the Amazon guy rolled up with these:

IMG_1106.jpeg


It came in a set of two, so I have an extra kicking around to forget about later. I want to do some research to make sure I put it back with the right amount of tension / contact with the belt with the compressor switched off.

Then it was time for the emissions computer and potentially reflowing solder on the board. I pulled this off and looked at it for a good 10 minutes before deciding it was fine. No dark circles around connections indicating broken solder, if anything this looks really good. Checked continuity on the wire going to the ICS vacuum switch, which was excellent, sprayed some De-Oxit into the plug and reinstalled. Nothing to see here.

IMG_1107.jpeg


Now it's just searching for a cat converter and continuing to hit the interior with Gain-scented Febreze. So fresh...until a mouse turd rolls out from under the dash.
 
I am not sure I'd classify this quite as karma, but certainly as the universe working in funny ways... I picked up some license plate frames from the local dealership, and took the rear plate off to install and found the dealer ad underneath it.

IMG_1108.webp


Wondries Toyota is was a dealership in Anaheim, where my dad bought a 1988 Corolla SR5 on credit, red but with auto transmission. It was officially his midlife crisis car, but ended up being the car I learned how to drive in, taking my high school gf out in, and so on. It's just funny to see this here, so many years later.

I put it back where I found it. :)
 
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Couple quick hit updates - had Mark @65swb45 rebuild the carburetor and got that back yesterday, put it on the rig today after a busy morning of erranding around. Only needed a couple small adjustments to idle speed and mixture, and it was good to go. Came back nice and clean with a new secondary diaphragm, looking good sporting an M on the sight glass :) Smog re-test on Monday.

IMG_1132.webp

Worked some on the radio over the course of the week. I soldered the leads from a minplug extension directly to the pre-amp input line clipped from the cassette head, but the voltage is way too high and the sound is all terrible even at low volume - the output from a headphone jack of an iPod or iPhone is line level, or about 1V, while the amp input is expecting ~0.3V. I tried an 80 ohm impedance plug, but that didn't really help. It probably needs more resistance to knock it back, but I'm not sure how many amps this is putting out (negligible, right?) so can't quite figure out what impedance I need to introduce in between to regulate it down.

What that all probably means is that once I pass smog, I'll just get a mechless head unit and attach constant, ignition, and ground and rerun new speakers and wire to all four corners, eventually. Door speakers are absolutely shot, and the rear 6x9s that the PO put in are in bad shape. Fortunately the whole thing will cost under $500 and an afternoon to get something reasonable for bumping tunes.
 
Smoke Monster noise is still there on the ac compressor. I have the following bearing in my cart but wanted to see if @Spike Strip or anyone else knows if this is the right one? This matches the 62x40x24 dimensions of the National junk that Rockauto lists for the application, but can't cross reference to the Toyota part because it's NLA.

Nachi bearing
 
It looks like it's 90099-10133 Discontinued.

Maybe you can figure out the OEM from some pix....


1754323016129.webp

1754323709341.webp
 
Thanks Alf - I'm assuming the 40 and 62 refer to the bore and outer diameters respectively, what I can't tell is if the width is correct at 24mm. "F" is not a helpful dimension from Toyota. Looks like it but I may just order and send it.

Off to smog recheck.
 
I read that F stands for front. If you look on Toyota parts deal it has all the superseded part numbers, maybe you can get some information from those.
 
LFG!!!!

Still low O2 at high RPM, hmm.

IMG_1133.webp


Pretest showed CO slow to drop into range but we got that figured out. Did not run E85 - was just whatever was in the tank. Also set timing at the usual 7* BTDC.

Big thanks to @65swb45 Mark at Mark's Off Road for the carb rebuild and @Spike Strip Alf for advice and guidance.

At AAA for registration now. Excited!
 
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