Wit's End Turbo Owners - Thread #2..... (5 Viewers)

[Wompom]

25k miles on my kit and overall its been great. I've been daily driving it since the turbo was installed with minimal issues.

Some problems I have had (and some I'm still having):

1. First thing that happened was trouble holding boost. Got a smoke kit and found quite a few leaks but it ended up being the EGR Modulator. I saw that others like @CJK have had this issue with used modulators but the odd thing for me was mine was brand new with the full rebuild I did in 2019/2020. I bypassed & disabled the EGR system and everything has been great. There were various other leaks I tightend up, the smoke machine kit is great.
2. I had an oil leak from my turbo supply line after the first few heat cycles. Tightened it all up and no problem since.
3. I have the same "compressor oil sweat" that @Wompom has on the bottom of the compressor housing. I thought it was the loose oil supply but persisted after. Nothing leaking from the oil drain either, and I tightened up the compressor housing with no luck as well. I take apart the intake every ~5k miles to check on things and there's always oil in the silicone elbow feeding the compressor. I added a dual catch can kit but I get almost no oil in the can feeding the turbo intake, lots of oil (comparably) in the PCV catch can though, and still the same amount of oil in the intake. I'm starting to think its an oil drain issue backing up oil and pushing it past the bearing but don't really have a way to test that.
4. A few times (but rarely considering how heavy its used) this summer I would start the truck like normal and 15-30s later it would slowly stumble and stall. It only happened on very hot days when the truck was already warm. Every time I restarted the truck I would let the fuel pump prime the system then it would start up fine. I've figured it was a fuel pressure VSV issue but maybe I should be checking compression. I'm about to pull the plugs for the first time since turbo install so we'll see what those look like too.

Some feedback/lessons learned:

• I should have gone with a lamba AFR gauge and vacuum/boost gauge from the start instead of an old school wideband and simple boost gauge.
• The smoke machine kit is a wonderful tool.
• The turbo blanket is fantastic but I wish I had ceramic coated as well, the heat is no joke.
• Despite all the heat, I've never had an overheating issue. I agree with others that the intercooler isn't required with this setup but I will be installing one moving forward.
• Since installed, I've never had a single CEL so the OEM ECU definitely can handle it. Not surprising since it runs quite rich all the time. Similar to the intercooler, I'll be doing a Haltech 2500 moving forward.

Overall I love the turbo 1FZ though. I'm considering selling the 80 for a new cruiser that fits my family's needs a bit better but I will definitely be building another turbo 1FZ in whatever I replace it with. It pulls like an absolute weapon when the turbo spools and it honestly seems like the power on tap is endless sometimes.

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I recall someone talking about using an oil supply restrictor pill. I've used them on turbo subaru builds before. My truck averages 75 psi on the oil gauge at temp/load. I'm thinking thats going into the supply line and if you look from a fluids standpoint, that is probably VERY high pressure on that journal after its pushing 75psi into a small diameter line. My CHRA was pretty beat up when i pulled it. Having it inspected now by a borg shop.
Borgwarner did send a warranty exhaust housing for replacement after they saw what mine had done.

Curious about the oil restrictor idea. Anyone have thoughts? @scottryana @haulin auss @audi2nr

Per Garrett on their journal bearing turbos (i know not apples to apples)

Journal-bearings function similarly to rod or crank bearings in an engine – oil pressure is required to keep components separated. An oil restrictor is generally not needed except for oil-pressure-induced leakage. The recommended oil feed for journal bearing turbochargers is -4AN or hose/tubing with an ID of approximately 0.25”. Be sure to use an oil filter that meets or exceeds the OEM specifications.

Trying to find a good info brochure on the turbo. Some of the BW turbos have a restrictor built into the inlet, which would mean that the supply is not the issue, but the drain not being able to keep up, or pressure pushing back up from the crankcase.

also check out post #4 on here - could be the drain, not the supply

 

[OutlawMike]

can you share the one you have had success with? i've been looking at getting a kit to help identify intake leaks on both NA and boosted engines, but Amazon has some that are a glorified paint can all the way to pro shop level gear. i think i want one a bit nicer than a paint can.

At the end of the day, they’re pretty much a paint can with a pressure regulator. Doesn’t need to be a whole lot more sophisticated.

This is the one I’ve been using and it’s been great. I got the cone attachment which works wonderfully for the exhaust and intake.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07JVT1NG2

Looks like they make one with an air compressor built in for only a little more, I’d probably go that route if it had existed when I purchased.

I bought that same one. Nothing fancy, works as intended. I have used it more on friends vehicles and it finds the leaks.

 

[CJK]

I recall someone talking about using an oil supply restrictor pill. I've used them on turbo subaru builds before. My truck averages 75 psi on the oil gauge at temp/load. I'm thinking thats going into the supply line and if you look from a fluids standpoint, that is probably VERY high pressure on that journal after its pushing 75psi into a small diameter line.

The oil supply line is restricted to 1/4" (-4AN) which is what is recommended by the turbo manufacturers.

The drain and drain line from Turbo is -10AN.

 

[audi2nr]

I ran my precision 6266 journal bearing turbo with no restrictor a -4 feed line and a -10 drain line on my 2jz that made just a bit more oil pressure than my 1fz with no issues. My garrett is a ball bearing and has a built in restrictor. A quick search on the googs shows plenty of people with various engines running without a restrictor on these bw turbos, so I'm sure you are ok as long as the oil drain is not getting backed up. Did you let your truck cool down before you shut it off after running it hard?

 

[audi2nr]

What was your oil change interval and oil type/weight? Any blackstone reports done? I wonder if the oil type or heat or condition played into the condition of the turbo bearings?

 

[Greyota]

For the record, I have the same issue with oil in the tube and collecting at the bottom of the turbo housing. I’ve been running Mobil 1 5W-40 TDT about 3,500-4,000 mile interval.

 

[alia176]

@Fosters

I know you just bent over to buy the turbo kit but since you're already bent over, might want to think about changing out the ECU harness. There's a brand new for sale for $500 in the classifieds. In my particular case, this project really "woke" up the engine and some of the nuisance CEL codes went away. I wrote up a post on some tips/tricks with this project.

Anyway, welcome to the boosted side!!!! Your cruise control will now work as intended, LOL!!!

 

[Fosters]

@Fosters

I know you just bent over to buy the turbo kit but since you're already bent over, might want to think about changing out the ECU harness. There's a brand new for sale for $500 in the classifieds. In my particular case, this project really "woke" up the engine and some of the nuisance CEL codes went away. I wrote up a post on some tips/tricks with this project.

Anyway, welcome to the boosted side!!!! Your cruise control will now work as intended, LOL!!!

Luckily for me I already installed a new harness when I did a short block build…appreciate the advise though…

 

[alia176]

Luckily for me I already installed a new harness when I did a short block build…appreciate the advise though…

Oh excellent work amigo. I like your wallet just opens up magically.

 

[Fosters]

Oh excellent work amigo. I like your wallet just opens up magically.

The well is running dry…been on something of a spending rampage since the beginning of the year haha

 

[jjdeneen918]

CARB certification sounds awesome, especially for CA.

Is this kits pretty much same/similar as the Wits End kit?

Curious to know if it becomes smog certified, could I put your smog sticker on it?

 

[haulin auss]

CARB certification sounds awesome, especially for CA.

Is this kits pretty much same/similar as the Wits End kit?

Curious to know if it becomes smog certified, could I put your smog sticker on it?

Wrong thread

 

[ChargedSHOTaco]

Curious to know if it becomes smog certified, could I put your smog sticker on it?

 

[uscmas412]

When the shop did my reinstall, I don’t think they oriented the wastegate clamp properly. Two questions:

1) which direction should the clamp/bolt face. You can see it’s currently contacting the down pipe.
2) Pretty sure that’s not original hardware for the bolt and nut, what size do I need?

 

[audi2nr]

When the shop did my reinstall, I don’t think they oriented the wastegate clamp properly. Two questions:

1) which direction should the clamp/bolt face. You can see it’s currently contacting the down pipe.
2) Pretty sure that’s not original hardware for the bolt and nut, what size do I need?

View attachment 3550420

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the orientation of the clamps do not matter as long as they are clearing any parts. those are the correct hardware that is included with the tial wastegates.

 

[Greyota]

So I’m changing my head gasket and upon re-install of the turbo, I see that this nut has fallen off of the downpipe support.

Anybody know the size and thread pitch on that nut by chance? And I’d check all of yours too. Just vibrated off.

 

[Wompom]

So I’m changing my head gasket and upon re-install of the turbo, I see that this nut has fallen off of the downpipe support.

Anybody know the size and thread pitch on that nut by chance? And I’d check all of yours too. Just vibrated off.

View attachment 3550612

Don't recall the size/pitch. I may be able to check mine when I get home since it's off the truck. I threw a lock washer on and it hasn't loosened up since.

 

[Greyota]

Don't recall the size/pitch. I may be able to check mine when I get home since it's off the truck. I threw a lock washer on and it hasn't loosened up since.

I think it’s an M10, at the hardware store now getting a few nuts to try. I’ll report back in a bit what I found.


Edit: Confimed it's an M10x1.50 bolt. I grabbed both a plain nut/lock washer and a serated flanged nut; just need to decide which to use.

 

[ChargedSHOTaco]

When the shop did my reinstall, I don’t think they oriented the wastegate clamp properly. Two questions:

1) which direction should the clamp/bolt face. You can see it’s currently contacting the down pipe.
2) Pretty sure that’s not original hardware for the bolt and nut, what size do I need?

View attachment 3550420

View attachment 3550421

1. Obviously you would direct the clamps so that the fasteners are away from the other parts, but those clamps are quite a chore to align.
2. That looks to be original hardware from Tial. However, Tial has started providing clamps that look like the downpipe and exhaust clamps in their latest kits.

BTW, You have 2 metal gaskets on one side of the banjo fitting on the boost reference to your wastegate. You should have one on each side of the banjo fitting.

 

[uscmas412]

the orientation of the clamps do not matter as long as they are clearing any parts. those are the correct hardware that is included with the tial wastegates.

Thanks y’all, fixed the washer issue and relocated the clamp so it’s not contacting down pipe. Ended up putting in a new screw and nut I had on hand.

Next question, has anyone removed this bracket? IIRC I tried to unbolt it but it’s semi-permanently integrated to the MAF. It just bothers me, sticking out w/ no purpose.