mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Anyone rebuilding heads looked into larger valves and some head porting?
Wit's End Turbo Owners - Thread #2..... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OutlawMike
- Start date
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Rebuild #1 included larger Brian Crower valves, 33mm intake & 39mm exhaust according to the invoice from the now defunct engine builder/machine shop. The engine ran perfectly prior to the rebuild minus oil consumption, i.e. no HG failure or overheating. I just wanted it to be solid for the turbo install. I also had this shop weld the oil return bung to the oil pan, it's the only thing that lasted.
Rebuild #2 was necessary due to an intake valve not fully closing. Still not sure how this occurred, other than poor machining or reassembly during build #1. Not the best picture, but you can see it on the far right.
Compression readings after rebuild #2:
1.187
2.194
3.190
4.196
5.189
6.192
After a few thousand miles on rebuild #2, my CEL comes on with a corresponding engine shudder/stumbling at idle. I did a compression check and found #3 was low (70). At this point, I was about to head out of the country for several months, so I towed it to a new LC specialty shop. Given the two failed rebuilds, I decided to bite the bullet and go with a new engine. I never got a solid answer on why compression was low, but the block visually appeared ok while the Blackstone report was inconclusive. If I had to guess, it was something on the upper cylinder that failed again.
Currently have ~600 miles on the new engine. Other than an upstream O2 sensor all is well so far. The shop verified boost was in the ~7PSI range but I still do not have a permanent boost gauge installed. It's definitely on my short list of upgrades, just can't decide whether to go with the Lutz clock kit or a dedicated gauge on a Delta console.
jjdeneen918
SILVER Star
I did a Cometic HG, when I did the head (maintenance) prior to WE turbo kit install.
Only other upgrades was the TransGo kit & Ron Davis radiator.
10k miles & several years later, no issues.
Only other upgrades was the TransGo kit & Ron Davis radiator.
10k miles & several years later, no issues.
For s***s and grins I connected a cheapo Bosch to the T fitting on the upper intake temporarily. What am I actually looking at?
@ idle shows 20 vacuum
Here's a driving video, starts at 20 vacuum then gets up to 3-4 pressure. I was 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and maybe 40mph, no more than 3500 RPM.
Driving
Sitting in the garage @ idle, again 20 vacuum. But when I increase throttle the gauge reads 30 vacuum?
Idle & Parked
@ idle shows 20 vacuum
Here's a driving video, starts at 20 vacuum then gets up to 3-4 pressure. I was 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and maybe 40mph, no more than 3500 RPM.
Driving
Sitting in the garage @ idle, again 20 vacuum. But when I increase throttle the gauge reads 30 vacuum?
Idle & Parked
Was there a calibration procedure? My range is 10 vacuum at idle to about 6.5+ boost.
I was debating valves. Did you end up going back to oem?
Yes
This gauge is what the shop used to make sure turbo setup was good, didn’t think to look at instructions. FWIW I’m at sea level with high pressure today, 30.05
if you don't want to go stand alone ecu or intercooled i would look at some sort of water/meth injection as that would require the least amount of fab overall.
No issues going IC if I can figure out one
No load and revving the engine will yield very little if any boost. That being said if your hitting 30”hg not loaded and revving the engine that’s good.
Driving and only hitting 3500, leisure load, will also not yield full boost. At 3500 and at load mash the throttle and full boost should be achieved after 2-3 seconds. Then take your readings.
Boost=load on engine
the ECU is the weak link.
If you want to stay with stock ECU, IC is the only addition that I’d consider. However, I probably wouldn’t even bother…it’s never going to be a fire-breathing dragon on the stock ECU. It’s massively better than NA and still mostly stock for simplicity.
If you want to stay with stock ECU, IC is the only addition that I’d consider. However, I probably wouldn’t even bother…it’s never going to be a fire-breathing dragon on the stock ECU. It’s massively better than NA and still mostly stock for simplicity.
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Hey Mike - would you mind sharing a post about your injector setup, etc? Sounds like you're successfully running 10psi with the supra pump?
- Thread starter
- #34
Got them on Amazon. Nothing special, just made sure they were all stainless.
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- Thread starter
- #35
Sure,
I bought the scaled injector kit from LandTank. That kit replaces the stock AMF housing with a milled aluminum housing with a larger ID. It uses the upgraded MAF sensor that he also sells. Then, the injectors are switched out to Subaru WRX injectors. The ID of the MAF housing is scaled with in a ratio to the higher flow rate of the injectors. This gives more fueling capacity as it tricks the stock ECU. This technique has been used on Supra engines for a long time.
LandTank intended the kit for supercharged 1FZ-FE's. Joey was going to test it with the turbo kit, but I do not think that ever happened. I went ahead and did it and collected some data on it with my turbo setup. The main thing I noticed was that when at WOT and the computer goes open loop, it runs richer than before the install. I had increased the boost to 8.5 PSI and tested with the scaled injector kit at that level. At WOT before the scaled injector setup, Lambda was running .82 to .85. After the scaled injector setup, it went down to .74 to .77, a little more rich. I then added a Boost T and dialed the boost up to 10 PSI. This took Lambda back up to the .85 range at WOT and max boost.
After that, I added methanol injection to reduce intake temps and to reduce risks of detonation.
So, in total, right now I have the following fuel mods on my setup:
LandTank scaled injector kit (WRX injectors and larger ID MAF housing with upgraded MAF sensor).
Supra high volume fuel pump
Methanol injection (AEM kit, custom install).
I have just short of 2K miles on this setup so far. Mostly runs up to the Sierra from Santa Rosa and then off road. The boost really comes into play when climbing I-80 or 50 out of Sacramento. I have had climbs where the boost sits at 9.5 PSI for three, four minutes and the rig pulls 65 up the hill, fully loaded down.
Scotty has been warning me about detonation and I understand the concern. So far I see no evidence of it happening, but I am running a risk with the boost 10 PSI max and the stock ECU. There is no way to take timing out while under boost.
Mike
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- Thread starter
- #36
Those are Steeda catch cans. I made the brackets custom, designed them in 3D, and had the sheetmetal shop at work laser and fold them for me. The guy who runs our prototype sheetmetal shop does side jobs for beer....
If anyone wants the 3D files for the brackets, I will share them. Not interested in making or selling. Maybe someone on here would be.
I ditched the cheap plastic fittings and ordered aluminum fittings from Amazon. Came out pretty clean. No more oil in the inlet of the compressor.
Steeda Mustang Oil Separator (79-20/03-04 Cobra)
Steeda's universal oil separator kit for S550, S197, SN95, and Fox body Mustang reduces detonation, oil burning and deposits on the valves by removing oil drawn through the PCV system before it can contaminate the intake charge. This kit features a clear
- Thread starter
- #37
I kind of ended up with what Lutz is selling, but using the 14:1 gauge kit from JRP in Australia. I made a 3D printed mount that sandwiches the opening for the clock and allows me to put the 14:1 display in that spot. JRP just came out with their version 2.5 for the display and the controller. It now supports a trans fluid temp sensor and OBDII support.
That’s an awesome spot. I have the same gauge but mine is on the A pillar. This is cool. Any chance you could make another 3D printed mount?
Awesome stuff. I too am running the Landtank Scaled Injector kit and boost T and 8psi spring with great results. AFRs read 10.6-10.8 at WOT, and no indication of ping or detonation. Considering adding methanol injection, but the large turbo has really helped to keep the IATs down.
If anyone is interested, I have one of those Landtank Scaled Injector kits for sale that was meant for the other rig. Will be trying a stand-alone ECU with that one.
- Thread starter
- #40
What stand alone ECU are you looking at using? I have another big project in the works that is intended to use a stock ECU, but my fall back is to switch to a stand alone if I cannot make that work.
