I have had never luck with those, but MIG (welded nut) is helped always.I have found that left hand drill bits work wonders with broken bolts.
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I have had never luck with those, but MIG (welded nut) is helped always.I have found that left hand drill bits work wonders with broken bolts.
It looks like the yoke collars changed over the years. Mine appears to be an early one (pre-67) as the collar has more bulk to it. Going through some of the images on Spector, the shear pin on mine is no longer available. However, they do sell the thinner 4mm pin for a different yoke.
Wow, that's amazing. An 8 mm diameter shear pin has four times the shear strength of a 4mm pin, which means those older winches must have been much stronger.
I wanted to send you a picture of that later model welded spider joint.
Kevo
View attachment 2057643View attachment 2057644View attachment 2057646
On mud. That's the one I told you I bought for you, if you need it.
Kevo
I paid $60 shipped. $50 shipped to you if you need it.
Kevo
Not being critical, but be aware:
Your current yoke, shaft and pin has been modified, the older shear pins are 4mm.
5/16" (.313") is smaller than 8mm (.315") and will fit loosely in a hole for an 8mm.
The caliper picture seems to indicate between .324" and .325" diameter for your pin?
A loose (floppy) connection adds bending stress to shear stress, decreasing the load the same shear pin can withstand with a tight fit. (not a bad thing, just the way it is)
Won't make a recommendation here other than realize if you use a 5/16 steel bolt something else will fail before the bolt. Upgrading the material of a stock 4mm pin has gotten me all I ever needed out of one of these winches in a stock application. I use a 1/4" high strength brass pin to protect another that has a non-stock PTO driveshaft, haven't had a chance to break it yet to see if my math is correct.
SKF BR30206 BCA/NTN 30206 = 97600-30206
Make a metal disc and stake it in the spider (it only needs to seal slightly better than the caps to force grease out there). Or snag the one from Kevos. Your welder may tell you that welding your spider will ruin it.
Also if you're going to weld the housing cracks, get a cheap roller bearing of the same outside diameter of the seal, press it in the seat, and the housing inside diameter (and cracks) will return close to original.....or break the piece off and it really will need to be welded.
@jvincig01
I wanted to do some calculations on the shear pin loading, so I'm wondering if your bronze worm gear is still accessible.
If so, could you count the teeth, and estimate the outside diameter of the worm gear on the tip of the teeth at the middle of the tooth?
The part in your picture is the worm shaft. The gear it turns, made of bronze, is the worm gear. I am looking for the dimensions of the worm gear.I think I am following but just double checking. Do you want some measurements on this worm gear (Top of picture)? Happy to take some if this is what you are referring to. Is it bronze?
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@jvincig01
The part in your picture is the worm shaft. The gear it turns, made of bronze, is the worm gear. I am looking for the dimensions of the worm gear.
Thanks for measuring it for me.