Wow, that's amazing. An 8 mm diameter shear pin has four times the shear strength of a 4mm pin, which means those older winches must have been much stronger.It looks like the yoke collars changed over the years. Mine appears to be an early one (pre-67) as the collar has more bulk to it. Going through some of the images on Spector, the shear pin on mine is no longer available. However, they do sell the thinner 4mm pin for a different yoke.
I am close to disassembling the spider gear right now and then seeing if that welder I was telling you about can seal it up for me. If he can't, I might be pinging you about it.On mud. That's the one I told you I bought for you, if you need it.
Awesome!! Thank you! I am going to try and take mine apart tomorrow. I will get back to you once I talk to the welder next week about fixing the housing cracks and see what he says about covering the hole on mine.I paid $60 shipped. $50 shipped to you if you need it.
Not being critical, but be aware:
Your current yoke, shaft and pin has been modified, the older shear pins are 4mm.
5/16" (.313") is smaller than 8mm (.315") and will fit loosely in a hole for an 8mm.
The caliper picture seems to indicate between .324" and .325" diameter for your pin?
A loose (floppy) connection adds bending stress to shear stress, decreasing the load the same shear pin can withstand with a tight fit. (not a bad thing, just the way it is)
Won't make a recommendation here other than realize if you use a 5/16 steel bolt something else will fail before the bolt. Upgrading the material of a stock 4mm pin has gotten me all I ever needed out of one of these winches in a stock application. I use a 1/4" high strength brass pin to protect another that has a non-stock PTO driveshaft, haven't had a chance to break it yet to see if my math is correct.
SKF BR30206 BCA/NTN 30206 = 97600-30206
Make a metal disc and stake it in the spider (it only needs to seal slightly better than the caps to force grease out there). Or snag the one from Kevos. Your welder may tell you that welding your spider will ruin it.
Also if you're going to weld the housing cracks, get a cheap roller bearing of the same outside diameter of the seal, press it in the seat, and the housing inside diameter (and cracks) will return close to original.....or break the piece off and it really will need to be welded.
I think I am following but just double checking. Do you want some measurements on this worm gear (Top of picture)? Happy to take some if this is what you are referring to. Is it bronze?
The part in your picture is the worm shaft. The gear it turns, made of bronze, is the worm gear. I am looking for the dimensions of the worm gear.